Restaurants – Page 10

Bonchon

In my estimation, all Korean restaurants must have good food, or at least every one that I have visited and savored their offerings. Who can resist the marinated meats that are grilled in front of you that exude sweet savory or spicy hot flavors, accompanied by the myriad of cold side dishes that could make a vegetarian’s eyes roll back and make anyone feel sated by the variety in their flavors and cooking techniques, alongside the ubiquitous Kimchi that titillated the taste buds. I guess the Koreans are equally gastronomically obsessed much like the other Asian groups that surround the native peninsula: the Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese, Thai, Malaysian and Singaporean. But which restaurant can I pick and do a write-up on when there is a plethora of good Korean establishments in the DMV?

So when a fellow gourmand suggested a Korean eatery that has been written up by Esquire Magazine, GQ Magazine, and the New York Times for their famous fried chicken, I had to venture into this establishment and find out what the hype was all about. My fore mentioned friend and I decided to meet up at Bonchon Restaurant for lunch a couple of times before my writing of this review. Bonchon has two locations, one in Ellicot City, MD, and the other in the heart of Koreatown, Annandale, VA. We decided to meet in the Ellicot City branch, south of Baltimore city, located off the Baltimore National Pike (Route 40), a busy strip replete with other Korean eateries, indicative of the high Korean population in that area. Finding it is a little bit tricky since it is behind a strip mall facing the main street – Google Maps and GPS are life-savers in these situations.

For starters, one of my friend’s company ordered the popular Potstickers, or Mandu in the vernacular. Usually, it comes in a steamer soft from the hot vapors and with a nearly translucent dough. However, here we find this dumplings deep-fried and glowing orange with a quick dip in some hot sauce. These bits were irresistible with the crispy greaseless thin dough enveloping the fresh tasting savory filling – a perfect study of contrast between the crispy outer and the soft moist filling. The thin layer of spicy coating elevated these bites beyond their usual guise and I was perplexed by how the skin remained crispy despite the coating of sauce. The perfect starter indeed, one to amuse the bouche.

The other starter is a Japanese classic, Takoyaki. These are dough balls made with a rice flour mixture with bits of octopus and cooked in a specially made iron-caste pan. These round bites are interesting with a cooked skin as the exterior enveloping a filling that is quite “gooey” punctuated by bits of cooked octopus. The pieces of seafood were tender but the gooey dough could be a textural issue for some. Shavings of bonito flakes added more savoriness to this starter along with some slathering of Japanese mayonnaise and a sweet-and-sour sauce that put me in a je-ne-sais-quoi mind probe. The slivers of raw cabbage added the necessary textural and sweet flavor contrast to these moist bites. Another party-in-the-mouth meal opener.

No Korean meal is complete without the myriad of cold side dishes that complement the main dishes. Here at Bonchon, these sides are not complementary of the house like in most places, which is unfortunate in my mind. But I decided to order a couple of them to try them out. Here, they offer the traditional Kimchi and also an updated version of it called the Kimchi Coleslaw. As you can figure it out, it is a combination of the traditional pickled vegetables with typical ingredients found in Coleslaw. In this dish, you can savor the bits of pickled Kimchi and the freshness of the raw slaw ingredients, all married together by a dash of creamy mayonnaise and a good hit of garlic. I must say I quite enjoyed this melange of flavors and ingredients. An order of the omnipresent Pickled Radish was not quite as successful. It lacked more time sitting in the pickling solution since the bits of Daikon still tasted a bit raw, and the flavor profile was calling for more saccharine – the only time that I would be wanting for more of this much maligned sugar substitute.

For lunch, this eatery offers a few lunch dishes at a very reasonable price. The first I tasted was Bibimbob. A beautiful stoneware bowl arrived on my table with an equally delightful assemblage of various ingredients that covered a mound of sticky rice: Beef Bulgogi, cooked watercress, marinated shiitake mushrooms, raw carrots, squash, with a raw egg yolk nestled in the middle with bits of nori seaweed, all topped by a sprinkling of nutty sesame seeds – basically, a Korean deconstructed meal. The idea is to add the side of sweet spicy sauce and to mix it all up as the heated stoneware cooks the egg yolk and heats the dish up. The prominent star among the many ingredients is the marinated beef that tasted deep and complex in flavor with its very savory marinade. I thoroughly enjoyed this “interactive” dish and finishing the dish savoring the bits of slightly crispy rice at the bottom of the bowl.

On another occasion, I ordered the Salmon Rice Bowl. My dish came in a rectangular plate, which prompted me to ask the waitress if they had got the order wrong – yes, it was the Rice “Bowl”, but “updated” to a modern dish. I must say I was rather disappointed at first since the traditional Rice Bowl comes with many ingredients like the above Bibimbob, but the difference being that it is not cooked in an earthenware. Accompanying the slab of salmon were a mound of rice and some unseasoned huge carrot sticks along with equally unseasoned broccoli florets. The salmon was perfectly pan grilled on the outside but the inside was stone cold and nearly completely raw. If this were seared sushi, it would have been completely acceptable. Unfortunately, it was not so and I just ate it as such. Yeah, rather disappointing for a Rice “Bowl.”

OK, the main reason why we are here for is that much raved about Fried Chicken. On our second trip, my friend had brought some company and so we decided to order an X-tra large combination plate with one half flavored Soy Garlic and the other Hot Spicy, the only two flavors offered. After quite a wait for our order (I had been warned about the wait), we dug in immediately. “Ummm”, “Wow”, “uhuh”, (guttural noises), (noise of biting sounds), (silence), (licking fingers) ….. This experience brought to mind Madonna’s Bedtime Story, “Today is the last day that I’m using words. They’ve gone out, lost their meaning.” Well, bringing words back, I will try to describe these tasty morsels. I was totally amazed by how the chicken pieces were cooked, with a lightly battered and very crispy skin with all fat rendered away, this covering perfectly moist and tender chicken meat that was not bland nor over-seasoned, and the light coating of sauce was the perfect amount and flavoring the whole bite, adding the right punch of salty, sweet, garlic, or chili spice. The pieces were completely irresistible and they did not last too long on the large white platter. If going solo, it is possible to order a lunch plate with a serving of between four to eight pieces. Wow, can I take a breath now after this orgiastic feasting?

Bonchon sets itself apart from traditional Korean eating establishments by upgrading its style to a more modern approach. There are some downfalls to that from the non-complementary side dishes (limited offerings) to the disappointing Rice “Bowl”. But what they do well, the dishes are worth mentioning, from the spicy Potstickers, to the tasty and funky Takoyaki, to the interactive Bibimbob cooked in a stoneware bowl, and most notably, the house special of that divine Fried Chicken. This dish is worth making the hike to either Annandale or Ellicot City for these tasty morsels that speaks for itself, and this KFC (Korean FC) will put the Colonel Sander’s version to shame any day.

Bistro D’oc

Restaurants

On New Year’s Day, while walking down 10th St. NW near the heart of the financial district, I came across a quaint looking building, beaming like a sore thumb amidst an ocean of modern glass and steel structures. When I noticed the large “Bistro” sign in the window, it thrilled me to know that there was a French eatery in the heart of town. After having reviewed other French establishments in the MD suburbs (See K Town Bistro) and in the VA neighborhood of Alexandria (See Yves Bistro), I was eager to add a downtown locale to the list of restaurants of one of my favorite cuisines.

Located across the street from the infamous Ford’s Theater in which President Abraham Lincoln was assassinated, Bistro D’oc sits in a wooden and brick structure dating back to the 1830’s. Walking through its doors you are immediately assaulted by the rich orange walls and deep ocean blue trimmings that evoke the colors of the Mediterranean. This establishment celebrates the traditions and regional cuisine of Languedoc, hence the restaurant’s name, serving dishes commonly found in that southwest French province that borders Spain and the Mediterranean. In addition to the bright color scheme, you are immediately transported to a different ambience that is a prelude of what to expect from a dining experience enhanced by the surrounding wooden structure, the old wall sconces, and the side furniture that evoke a yesteryear.

On my first visit, I invited my BFF to join me for dinner to celebrate my birthday. From the moment of taking a seat, the attention to details are noticeable by the diner. A complementary serving of bread and butter sets itself apart from the usual humdrum. Here we have a large slab of fresh butter that is a far cry from the chintzy prepackaged little aluminium foil squares. The French bread is truly veritable in quality with the hard outer crust covering an airy yet hearty flavorful inside. On another visit, the glass of Burgundy that came as part of the $25 Pre/Post-Theater dinner was decent for a house wine that was low in tannin and rather full in body. It is the attention to these minor details that sets the right mood for the rest of the meal.

For the appetizer on this occasion, I honed in on a vegetarian dish listed as a special, Eggplant Paté. It arrived in a beautiful Le Creuset mini pot (I looked at its bottom) along with a few home-made croutons. Digging into the pot, I was incredulous at the dish that consisted of just roasted eggplant due to the rich flavors that permeated each mouthful. Smooth bits of roasted eggplant are held in suspension by a rich puree that has been scented by some woodsy-minty thyme that added the note of interest. Bits of cooked tomato contributed some slight sweetness to the whole dish. The croutons were thin enough yet crusty to support a mound of this deliciousness but they quickly ran out before I reached the bottom of the pot – thank goodness for the slices of that tasty baguette. This was truly a wonderfully delicious vegetarian paté, if there were one.

Since my BFF was on his drastic diet for his upcoming Caribbean cruise, he opted for the Salad Languedoc. The plate arrived with a mound of mixed greens piled on, topped with confit chicken gizzard, surrounded by a couple of paper-thin slices of Bayonne ham, with a truffle of peppered chicken liver pate, and finished with a light dressing of a decent tangy vinaigrette. BFF and I were amazed at the tender bits of gizzard whose flavor was intensified by the confit (cooked in fat), the liver paté truffle smooth, rich, and pungent from the pepper, and the paper-thin ham tasted aged and musty from the barn that it was cured in, which is a good thing in this instance. Here, we see in this dish the roots of Modern French cuisine stemming from country fare that are well done and sensitive to quality ingredients – hearty yet sublime.

For my main course (let’s not confuse it with the American misuse of the word entrée) I decided to order something that I rarely come across in the menu of most French establishments – Cassoulet Languedoc. This hearty stew consists of French white haricot beans that have been stewed in a rich sauce and enriched by healthy chunks of duck confit (cooked in duck fat), lamb, pork, and Toulouse sausage. This is a hearty gut-sticking food that speaks of the humble origins of this unfussy dish. The beans were cooked just right, being not too soft and maintaining its integrity without being chalky firm, while the sauce it swam in was flavored by some aromatics and a good dose of woodsy thyme. The various pieces of meat lent their own distinctive flavors to this dish from the rich duck confit, to the slightly gamey lamb, the pieces of porcine delight, and the flavorful and slightly fatty sausage. The earthen bowl that the dish was served in added to the character of the dish that took this diner to a remote French farm where this stew would often be cooked. In addition to my fawning over the unctousness of this bean dish, I admired the restaurant’s offering this time-consuming dish that many places would avoid serving. This is classic Languedoc fare from the Southwest France, and with this dish this restaurant delivers.

As a treat for my birthday on my first visit, I decided to indulge in the dessert special for that day. It was offering an array of macaroons, and my order consisted of a couple made from coffee. These were two perfectly round crispy yet crumbly discs made from merengue flavored with some coffee essence, stuffed with a creamy filling again flavored with the same heady coffee essence and with some nutty crushed hazelnut bits mixed in. They were the perfect sweet bites to end the meal after having sated myself with the above rich dishes. Small, sweet, and satisfying.

As part of the Pre/Post-theater $25 three-course deal, I decided to start my meal with a Duck Rillette Paté. A small bowl of this rich meat paste came served with a couple of the house-made croutons. Pieces of shredded duck confit meat have been congealed with duck fat and heavily seasoned with black pepper. The pate was smooth and quite meaty with a good dose of pepper bite in each bite. The croutons were not enough to cover the amount of paté but the day was saved by the French bread slices. However, I got a bit bored by the rich dish as the amount was rather generous, and the addition of some herbs or the heady truffle would have made it more interesting to my palate. But I appreciated the rusticity in this version of pate which is the hallmark of this regional French cuisine.

For my second course, I order Salmon in a Butter Red Pepper Sauce. The moderate-size piece of salmon arrived napéd with a butter sauce studded with bits of sweet red and green peppers. The piece of fish was moist, flaky, and perfectly cooked from having some time in the oven, complemented by a surprisingly light buerre blanc that added a richness to the salmon. The chiffonade of fresh basil added a surprising anise flavor to the sauce and interesting touch to the dish. The accompanying white basmati rice was well cooked with a tinge of salt to elevate it beyond pure starch. A few capers thrown in to the sauce would have made the flavors perfect, but I was very satisfied with this dish and its skilful preparation.

To round off this set of trio, I chose the Rasberry Mousse Bavaroise as my last course. A glass arrived filled with the egg-cream-gelatine mixture at the bottom topped by a fairly thick layer of rasberry-blueberry compote. The creamy bottom was filled with the raspberry flavor while its airy lightness somehow managed to defy the richness of the custard. The topping was packed with soft chunks of cooked fruit providing the sweet fruitiness that paired perfectly with its bottom counterpart. This was the perfect finale to the three-act meal that was satisfying with the flavors, made with moderate sized portions, and they were a demonstration of the kitchen’s knowledgeable skilful cooking. This $25 deal is worth driving early to the city or visiting after a night out for a play.

Bistro D’oc is a downtown location that offers unfussy, tasty, and skillfully cooked food that pays tribute to the Southwest region of France, the region from which the owner’s patriarch claims his roots in his homeland. The dishes possess a level of humble earthiness while exuding a level of sophistication that is expected from French cuisine, a fare that can rarely be found in other places like the hearty Cassoulet, the rich Duck Rillette Paté, and the gizzard studded Salad Languedoc. This place is replete with a warm and welcoming ambience that makes the diner most welcome without feeling the stuffiness that can be found in some establishments. With their interesting and enticing offerings,the dinner specials, and the $25 deal, Bistro D’oc will see this diner popping in through their doors quite frequently in the future to savor this delicious French fare that speaks to the soul.

Afghan Restaurant

Restaurants

My former roommate is an avid traveller mainly due to the exigencies of his job and a sense of wanderlust to see the world. One of the perks for him is having the opportunity to visit a myriad of restaurants in various parts of the world. One year, back from a trip to San Francisco, he was exuding with delight about having a wonderful meal in an Afghan restaurant. Back then I was quite a connoisseur of Indian and Pakistani cuisine, but Afghan food was terra incognito within the realm of this palate. One for gastronomic adventure, I knew I had to delve into this cuisine and find a restaurant serving such offerings after hearing my friend speak about his meal.

Being the kind and considerate roommie that I was, I would pick my mate up from the airport back from his frequent trips. For many years, we had driven by a nondescript building off the main road, with a large drap-looking sign that barely made an effort to entice passersby into its dining room. After hearing my friend’s exuberant remarks about this exotic cuisine, we decided to pay a visit to Afghan Restaurant in Crystal City, VA, a stone throw away from Reagan National Airport (No, it is NOT “Reagan Airport” as some folks seem to truncate the name to – that irks me!). It took a bit of suspension of first impression judgement to enter its doors, and since then, we have not stopped returning to this establishment for over 15 years.

Always up for something unique and out of the common, the adventure for me starts with the first bite, or in this case, the first sip. Dogh is a fermented yogurt drink that has been lightened with some soda water and slightly brined by a touch of salt. It has the slight creamy taste of whole-milk yogurt but this richness is cut by the mild sourness from the fermentation. In addition, flecks of dried mint add the bite and slight herbaciouness to compensate the dairy flavor. This drink is not for the novice and it is an acquired taste, of which my friends would wince and remark that it tastes like toothpaste. Not for me – it is uniquely delish!

As for an appetizer, a favorite order is Mantu. These are steamed dumplings that are filled with scallions and bits of minced beef. The silky dough makes the perfect purse for the stuffing without being too thick or too delicate, providing support to the bits of not overly cooked scallion and morsels of tasty beef. The slathering of yogurt sauce along with a meat sauce made with a tasty tomato sauce and bits of vegetables makes this opener a tasty treat. What amazes me is the resemblance of this dish to the Mandu dumplings popular in Korean eateries. According to Wikipedia, the Mongols brought these meat purses from the Middle East to the Far East along the Silk Road in the 14th century – tasty bites with an interesting history. Along with the steamed dumplings, a baked version, Boolawnee, proved to be equally tasty during past visits.

The mainstay in Afghan cuisine are the meat dishes, especially the Kebabs that dominate a large portion of the menu. The menu offers a variety to choose from: Chicken, Beef, Lamb, and Fish, in either whole pieces or in ground meat form. Over the years we have zoned in on a couple of them in part due to their savouriness and in other part due to personal tastes of the other sharers: Boneless Chicken Thigh Kebab and Shami Kebab. The chicken thigh version comes with pieces of chicken that have been marinated in a seasoning and perhaps in some yogurt to helps to tenderize these bits of dark meat. The chunks come slightly charred and with a light smoky taste from having been grilled over charcoal while the meat remains moist and savory from the seasoning. The Chicken Breast version is equally tasty and moist, but my dining mates prefer the stronger tasting dark meat. The Shami Kebab is made from ground beef with some seasoning, grated sweet onions, and a bit of garlic. These pieces of beef make a tasty bite due to the seasonings and it will even entice the not-so-beef eater. But one can’t forget the humongous piece of freshly baked naan bread that makes the obligatory partner to this meal. Pieces of dough have been cooked in the tandoor oven, providing a crispy outer shell with a moist stretchy fluffy inside. The customary way of eating the pieces of chicken and beef is wrapping them with Naan bread and slathering the sandwiches with the accompanying spicy cilantro yogurt sauce. This is a perfect combo that has you coming back and wanting more with each bite. A skewer of grilled onions, green peppers and tomatoes can be added to round off these meat dishes.

Meat dishes definitely abound in this establishment. However, we have discovered that Afghan cuisine is not all about meat like in many Middle Eastern dishes. A section in the menu is dedicated to vegetarian dishes and they are worth discovering. The Vegetarian Rice Platter is the perfect partner to balance out the above meat dishes and it is a must order. This quartet comprises of sautéed spinach, roasted eggplant, stewed pumpkin, and Rice Palau. The chopped spinach is well-seasoned with a tinge of sourness to counterbalance any bitter taste (none btw), the soft eggplant still in chunks and amazingly slightly sweet, the pumpkin soft and naturally sweet sitting in a small pool of rich ghee, and the grains of basmati rice fluffy, a bit oily and heavily scented by large cardamom pods that add some exotica to the lean looking grain. The topping of caramelized carrot shreds and plump raisins brings more interest to this starch and it attempts to steal the highlight. For my friends and me, our kebab dishes would not be complete without an order of this divine combination of vegetables and rice. This easily would satisfy the most finicky vegetarian/vegan customer who would not think finding something worth ordering in a meat-laden menu.

As for my former roommie, he seems to order only one dish: Super Combo. It is definitely a combo that comes with a skewer each of chicken, lamb, and shami kebab, Rice Palau, along with a Qurma, a well-seasoned lamb stew. This is truly a meat delight for the die-hard carnivore to which my friend has taken his vows. The Qurma is very tasty with only a slight hint of the lamb gaminess that makes it palatable for the sensitive eater. It is a dish worth ordering to get a sampling of the different meat offerings in this restaurant and for the famished diner.

The desserts are limited in the offerings. However, apart from the predictable Baqlawa (Baklava), there is Ferni. It is made with milk and cornstarch, and it is served chilled and topped with a dusting of pistachio bits. It is akin to the usual rice pudding except the texture is a bit funky, much like an over-starched sauce that has congealed up. Aside from this textural issue, it is a tasty dessert with a slight hint of Orange Blossom essence in the pudding. Definitely a favorite of my mega-canivore friend.

In the best-selling novel, The Kite Runner, in which the author chronicles life during pre-Taliban Afghanistan, we see a frequently appearing character, Ali, who is the family’s long-time servant. He was faithful, constant, unassuming, and ever-pleasing. In more than the 15 years that we have been visiting Afghan Restaurant, it has demonstrated the very same qualities in the food that we relish in during our meals, never dipping in food quality or warmth in service. Just like the Ali character’s demure personality, or display sign in the restaurant’s case, one cannot discern beyond the looks, or in this case, how wonderful and enticing Afghan cuisine is unless he or she walks through those double doors. Or you may be invited to the wedding dinner in the banquet hall if you accidentally enter the adjoining room. Either way, the experience is never disappointing.

Vietnam Palace

Restaurants

Note: Unfortunately, this establishment has closed down.

The hunt for a decent Vietnamese restaurant serving more than just Pho noodles is like searching for the culinary Holy Grail. In the past, my friends and I used to visit Eden Center, a confluence of Vietnamese businesses in the heart of the immigrant community in Seven Corners, VA, to relish in the delectable offerings in our favorite eatery. However, it has moved further away into the boonies, and according to my Vietnamese hair stylist, it is now catering to a more American palate. In replacement, I discovered another eatery, Green Papaya, but to my dismay it folded up a couple of months later after being in business for over a decade. Another favorite haunt in DC also met the same fate after struggling in a part of town that saw gentrification moving slower that it would have liked. With all the Vietnamese noodle joints around me, I was nearly about to resign to my fate of settling for only this type of offering, pho real.

Around the beginning of this year, I noticed some renovations taking place in a store located in a strip mall near my favorite Costco. As I passed by it a number of times, I was anxiously waiting for the storefront sign to be put up so I could ascertain what type of cuisine it was going to serve. In May, I was thrilled to see its large name – finally a full-fledged Vietnamese restaurant a few miles down the road from me. I couldn’t wait for the Open sign to glow for my first visit, and I even stopped in and asked about their opening day.

One Sunday, I walked into Vietnam Palace eagerly anticipating my first meal there. However, a gentleman quickly told me that it was not officially open but only to invited guests. However, another man appeared from the kitchen and asked me to take a seat as one of the guests. Since that first warm welcome, I have paid them a few more visits before doing this write-up.

On the first visit when I was treated so graciously, I knew I was entering into a place different from the other Vietnamese establishments that I had visited. This was immediately evident from the drink that was placed on my table without my ordering. It is listed as “Longan in Syrup” in the drinks section of the menu. It comprises of a slightly sweet drink mixed with bits of agar-agar jelly, reconstituted dried longan fruit, and lotus or longan seeds. I was amazed by the combination of ingredients and flavors, reminiscent of a similar concoction that my grandmother used to prepare to cool the body down during the hot dry season in tropical Asia. The different elements in the sweet liquid made it taste more like dessert than a drink. This is definitely a different offering than the usual but a satisfying thirst quencher.

Among the usual drink choices of Vietnamese coffee, Lemonade and Soda Water, and Avocado Smoothie, there is another unexpected offering – Durian Smoothie. When I saw it on the menu, I knew I had to get my hands on a tall glass of it. Mine literally was filled to the brim and I had to quickly take a sip before it started to trickle down the sides. It was rich, slightly sweet, and ice-cold, packed with the distinctive and pungent flavors of the custard-like Durian fruit. It brought me back to my past summer trip to Malaysia when I got my fill of the fresh fruit that overwhelmed my taste buds with its unique pungent flavor. This smoothie had a similar effect on me without the strong aftertaste that the fresh fruit leaves. What a good alternative to the real thing, especially in this part of the world!

The first bite I took in this establishment was on a Spring Roll that you will find in most Vietnamese eateries. This rendition was as good as you would find anywhere else with its light and flaky wrap, a tasty filling that is made with wood fungus and carrot, minced pork and shrimp, and fine bean thread noodles that make up the customary stuffing. But what sets it apart is its accompanying fish sauce that woke up my senses immediately by the smooth refined flavor that you don’t find in other establishments. It reminded me of the fore mentioned closed down restaurant, Green Papaya, whose fish sauce tasted like a prized elixir. With the flavors lingering in my mouth, I knew that I have discovered a place where attention is paid to the details.

Another opener that we tried on a couple of visits is the Sweet and Sour Soup (Cahn Lau) that was part of the set course dinner. Pieces of fish or whole shrimp are cooked in a light broth along with pieces of tomato, bean sprouts, pineapple, whole okra and celery. The soup has a unique combination of sweet from sugar and the sour piquancy from the pieces of pineapple which I enjoyed quite a bit. The pieces of vegetable were perfectly cooked with the okra slightly firm and not slimy, bean sprouts still turgid but not raw, and the pieces of seafood plump and moist. The sprinkling of Vietnamese mint (Rau Ram) adds the herbal fragrance along with some caramelized shallots that brought another level of complexity to this rather simple soup. This light yet tasty soup pointed to a direction of Vietnamese cuisine that I had not savored before, which not only was pleasing to my senses but also peaked my gastronomic curiosity.

No respectable Vietnamese restaurant will have Pho noodles amiss from its menu, and this is the case with Vietnam Palace. But instead of the usual bowl of beef noodles on my first visit, mine came with strips of chicken amidst large chunks of daikon root. The mild root was tender yet savory from having absorbed all the flavors from the rich broth, a clear soup, clean in flavor, sweet without the customary use of MSG, and I could distinguish the distinctive spices used to make the key element in the bowl: cassia bark (Asian cinnamon) and star-anise. On another visit, the beef version came with paper-thin discs of raw meat that cooked quickly in that wonderful broth. Large pieces of green onion and fine rings of sweet onion added the mild pungency that complemented the rather sweet broth. Getting to know the owner, he told me that the broth changes in the amount of spices according to the time of the year – more cassia and star-anise in the winter time. This is definitely not your everyday bowl of Pho noodle.

Another bowl of noodle that shouldn’t be overlooked is one that you would probably not find in other Pho establishments – Bo Bun Hue. The bowl is covered with round long rice noodles, bits of beef, and sweet onions, all enveloped by a spicy beef broth made fragrant with lemongrass and reddish from some chili that is the basis of this noodle dish. The pieces of lean meat are joined by cooked skin, hunks of cartilage (a common source of protein in that part of the world), and squares made from congealed blood – this is not a dish for everyone especially for the squeamish. However, what I enjoy about the dish is the level of uncompromising authenticity along with that fragrant and fiery broth as well as the sprinkling of herbaceous Vietnamese mint (Rau Ram). The sides of fermented shrimp paste and dried chili paste add to the experience and its unique flavors. This is a must order for the adventurous especially if you are looking for a noodle dish beyond the usual Pho.

Another noodle dish that we have ordered a few times, albeit in a less soupy state, is Egg Noodle with Vegetables and Seafood. Dried egg noodles have been parboiled and cooked with brocoli, cauliflower, carrots, whole shrimp, fish balls, and shiitake mushrooms. The noodles were still al dente, the vegetables cooked similarly and still fresh tasting, the seafood sweet and moist, and the sauce flavorful and light that was effective enough to coat the pasta. What I enjoyed most was the generous amount of meaty shiitake mushrooms that added a hit of boskiness and a depth of flavor to this satisfying dish. A good sprinkling of biting pepper on the top was the finishing touch that titillated the taste buds, mine at least.

In addition to noodle dishes, Vietnam Palace has an extensive list of rice dishes that I don’t usually see in the usual eatery. On one occasion, I ordered Charbroiled Pork Chop, Shredded Pork, Egg Quiche on Steamed Broken Rice. A large piece of lightly seasoned Pork Chop is cooked with a slightly sweet and peppery coating until slightly brown yet remaining still quite moist. The accompanying quiche was something that I had not had before; bits of minced pork were mixed with egg white and topped by a mixture made with egg yolk. I found it quite tasty and amazing slightly spongy and rather light, aided by perfect seasoning and well-timed cooking. The other side of Shredded Pork was equally interesting but not necessarily in the same direction as the Quiche. It is cooked pork skin that has been shredded and mixed with toasted rice flour and seasoning. The texture was a bit off-putting by its soft chewiness along with a slight fermented flavor – definitely something authentic yet one needs getting used to. Mostly, I appreciate the restaurant’s offering of set rice platters that are not usually found in most eateries.

A couple of dishes beyond the rice and noodle dishes were tasted and are worth mentioning. Caramelized Fish comes served in a clay pot swimming in a dark chocolaty sauce coating the fish morsels. The basic flavor components are made from caramelized sugar that provides the slight sweetness and the slight burnt flavor, and the fish sauce that injects the brininess and a breath of ocean into the sauce. The pieces of fish were fresh and still quite moist. However, I thought that the use of fish sauce was a bit heavy-handed which overpowered the subtle caramel element. Upon bringing this to the waiter/owner’s attention, he agreed with me and quickly joked that he was going to fire the cooks, notably his parents in the kitchen. I felt a bit guilty for mentioning this but I’m not shy to help an establishment fix their faux pas. Another try of this dish is planned for the future.

Back to my first “invitation” to this establishment. After having sated myself with their wonderful dishes, the owner mentioned that they are offering a family special cooked only on the weekends – Sautéed Goat. When it arrived on my table, the waft that reached my nose instantly told me that this was no ordinary dish. Pieces of goat have been stewed with onion, curry powder, and coconut milk. In addition to the spice elements and rich coconut, it is heavily infused with some heady lemongrass that adds that Southeast Asian zing, along with a sprinkling of crushed peanuts and herbaceous Vietnamese mint (Rau Ram). A thick slice of French bread made the perfect sopping tool for that rich and flavor-packed sauce. Even though the pieces goat were a bit bony, which it tends to be, the bits of flesh were quite tender and well-flavored. This restaurant never ceases to amaze me with the authenticity of flavors and each visit turned into an adventure into this Southeast Asian cuisine.

Vietnam Palace is a restaurant worth trekking into the Maryland suburbs for anyone who is salivating for well-made dishes representing this Southeast Asian culture, beyond the noodle bowls that have over saturated the various neighborhoods as well as our taste buds. I still miss some dishes that are not served there, namely Grilled Lemongrass Beef and Salt Pepper Seafood that I used to relish in the closed fore mentioned eateries. However, what this place does well compensates for the missing dishes, and the dishes have broadened my horizon on this wonderful cuisine. Who would think that such gastronomic adventure could be found in a quiet strip mall off the beaten path. It is worth checking this place out!

Casa Oaxaca 2

Restaurants

A few months ago, I paid a visit to a modern Mexican restaurant in the Adams Morgan neighborhood of DC to sample their vegan menu (see blog). I was impressed by their modern approach to the presentation and rendition of some classic Mexican dishes like Quesadillas, Chile Relleno, and the Cactus salad, Nopalito. While I was waiting for the meatless offerings to arrive at my table, I had a chance to peruse the other dishes that would delight the die-hard carnivore. I had been anticipating my next visit during the four-month wait, thinking about some of the interesting sounding dishes that looked familiar and some new to my palate.

With an online offer coupon in hand (food blogging can make quite a dent to the pocketbook, thus I take “any means necessary” to make such hobby more economical), I showed up at Casa Oaxaca to meet a new online friend. Unfortunately, unlike my previous visit, the upstairs was not available to customers, thus I had no choice but to find the brightest lit table in the rather cavernous basement floor. Even under such lighting, it was a real challenge taking some decent photos with the low-level lighting which the staff were tempted to dim even further as the night progressed. Notwithstanding such challenges, my friend and I were quite excited about tasting the offerings.

While we were perusing the menu, we were regaled with a complimentary amuse-bouche. Small discs of freshly made tortilla were covered with some cooked beans and topped with cheese. The tortilla tasted home-made and slightly musky from the dried corn and lime powder. The beans were smooth and quite mild in flavor with the cheese adding a slight richness without overpowering its partners. A mild-tasting but nice start to the meal.

Our first order was Kekas since my dining mate was not too keen on the Grasshopper Cheese Fondue (yes, crunchy Chapulines is a common staple South of the Border). The plate came with a trio of quesadillas made with non-GMO (non-genetically modified organics) pink-hued tortillas. The one stuffed with fresh corn and huitlacoche had the sweetness of the former starch and the mustiness of the latter dark corn fungus, which is also another exotic staple in Mexican cuisine. The other stuffed with cheese, onions, and squash blossoms was a mild tasting and slightly sweet from the flower petals and onions, which made it quite distinct in its meek way. The boldest quesadilla was the Pork Carnitas stuffing which was thinly shredded pork with a rich savory sauce that stood out the most with its savoriness and bolder flavors. The side of Crema, light Mexican sour cream, added an additional unctuousness to these bites. This was a good appetizer with the quality noticeable in the cooking and the ingredients themselves.

The next course was a trio of Tacos de Cordero. It is basically soft tacos that envelop a mound of barbecued lamb meat. The meat was fork-tender and very tasty, although a bit too salty for my taste. The sauce had a hint of dry “wood” spices like cumin and cinnamon. The usual choice meat for a barbacoa is goat, but in this case lamb is used, which exuded a slight gamey note to the bite. The pickled red onions was the acidic relief needed for this rich dish and to balance the lamb flavor. The side of corn salad was delightful with its summer sweetness that was tempered by a hint of lime juice and cilantro. The refried beans were smooth and slightly smokey, which made them quite irresistible. The Mexican Rice was well-made but nothing extraordinary. If weren’t for the heavy hand in the salt, this would have made the perfect taco dish.

For our entrées, we chose a couple of dishes that represented authentic Mexican cuisine. The first was Tres Moles. It was a visually stunning dish with pieces of cooked chicken that were dressed with the traditional sauce of Oaxaca, Mole. I was curious to try this dish since I was only familiar with one type of mole sauce, Mole Poblano, which is made from a long list of dried chilies, nuts, and cacao. This restaurant’s version was probably one of the best I have had with some smokiness from the dried roasted chilies, slightly nutty, and the cacao added a dark rich note to the sauce – I was literally lapping up every drop of it from the plate. The green mole was made from tomatillos and garlic, and it was slightly acidic from the gooseberry relative. The red mole was quite piquant from the use of more searing chilies and it was the least favorite of mine. But this dish was a delicious study of contrast and it highlights the sophistication of this Pre-Columbian cuisine. This dish is a definite must-order at this restaurant and a tasty introduction to authentic Mexican cuisine.

The final entrée was Pato al Mole. Pieces of organic duck thigh are paired with a mole sauce made with figs. I was really anticipating the arrival of this dish judging by the name itself. However, the dish was a slight let down since the duck was a bit over-cooked and a bit too salty, and the sauce did not have any pronounced discernible fruity fig flavor but a slightly sweeter version of the Mole Poblano in the above dish. I appreciate the restaurant’s effort to take the traditional flavors to a more modern direction with the use of duck as the protein and figs as part of the mole sauce. However, I feel that it needs a bit of fine-tuning and it would be a great success.
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For dessert, we decided to try something that was typically Latin with a Mexican flair – Flan de Chocolate. It was basically a flan custard made with chocolate/coco and drizzled with some tequila. However, I found the flan a bit too dense and lacking the smooth creamy consistency which comes from as the result of condensed milk and the right proportions of ingredients to lighten it up. Furthermore, the chocolate flavor in the flan was produced from the use of coco powder and chocolate syrup which did not add much depth or richness. The pool of tequila did not do much to the dish and I felt it was not necessary. What a shame. Again, this dish needs fine tuning and it could be stellar. Unfortunately, it was ho-hum like the vegan version of Pastel de Tres Leches that I had on my last visit.

As part of the coupon offer, the final piece de resistance was a trio flight of different Mezcals, akin to tequila. Who would refuse such a treat, unless you are a serious teetotaler. Not familiar with the different types of this Mexican liquor, I was curious to discover something new. It is made from the Maguey which is a type of agave plant found in Oaxaca, closely related to the Blue Agave used to make tequila. The first offering was the plain mezcal. We were instructed to drink with a salt made with Chapulines (grasshopper – finally I got to taste it!) and a squeeze of sweet orange. I must say that this was a better version of Tequila Shots with the smoother Mexcal, the slightly smoky salt, and the sweet orange slice that did not produce that puckered face effect like with tequila. The second flight was a smoked version of the first clear mezcal – it was a bit too smokey for me although it is the most common version. The final version tasted like the coffee liquor, Kahlua, and my dinner mate enjoyed it much like a dessert wine. This was a great ending to the meal, which left us slightly buzzed but not inebriated due to the quantity of food we had consumed.

Just like my first trip to Casa Oaxaca to try its vegan menu, there were more highlights in this time’s tasting than the disappointments. The Kekas Quesadillas were flavorful with the different meat and vegetable stuffing especially the Pork Carnitas and Huitlacoche fungus. The Lamb Tacos were fork-tender and well-seasoned despite the slight over-salting. The Tres Moles was perhaps the best dish we tried and this restaurant’s version did some justice to this national dish with the complex sauces. The trio flight of mezcal shots was the perfect ending, a much smoother version than the back-throat-burning tequila. Casa Oaxaca is worth visiting to savor well-made authentic Mexican dishes that will dispel one’s prejudices or preconceived notions of this cuisine, and it will impress any diner with the restaurant’s familiar and exotic offerings.

Souk

Restaurants

On a late-summer Friday night lit by a radiant blue moon (it literally was), we decided to venture to the H street NE neighborhood to savor the cooking of a new restaurant. It had been many moons (pun intended) since I ventured to this part of town ever since an old friend lived there in the early 90’s. Strolling down its main drag with the full moon getting everyone’s attention and spurring us to enjoy a warm night during the lingering remnants of summer, I was quite taken aback by the area’s development and growth including the influx of diversity in a historically black neighborhood that was enjoying the burgeoning businesses on the strip. One such place is Souk Moroccan Restaurant.

When we arrived at our destination, the restaurant was undergoing some renovations in the main dining room, making its foyer cramped with filled tables. We were invited by the waiters to spend our waiting time at a Hookah Bar a couple of doors away. When the table became available, we squeezed into our table and quickly perused the menu. The offerings are the familiar and traditional Moroccan dishes that I have encountered in other eateries. The menu is divided into Cold Tapas, Hot Tapas, Signature Moroccan Specialties, Salads, and Entrées.

Our first choice to start the meal off was a combination of cold tapas listed under the Entrée section – Vegetarian Platter. The dish arrived filled with a combination of Zaalouk, stuffed grape leaves, hummus, traditional Moroccan spinach, and carrot salad. The Zaalouk consisted of roasted eggplant, garlic and tomatoes that enticed us with its savoriness, well-balanced flavors, and silky smooth texture along with a good hit of smokiness, and the accompanying pita slices made the perfect scooping vehicle for the dip. The carrots slices were still sweet and perfectly cooked with a tinge of lemon acidity. I could not get enough of the stuffed grape leaves that tasted fresh and not too acidic like in other places. The hummus was not too dense, smooth, and rich with a hint of garlic and tahini sauce. The center of the plate was occupied by a large chickpea falafel that was well-seasoned, light, and crispy from the frying. And the spinach was really tasty with a slight hint of fragrant dried spices, perhaps cumin. I would suggest to order this dish as the perfect starter even though it is listed under the entrée section. As a vegetarian offering, it makes a perfect meatless dish as well.

A favorite among the traditional Moroccan dishes is Chicken with Preserved Lemons, and we decided to order this restaurant’s rendition. The dish arrived with a thigh and drumstick that has been cooked with caramelized onions, saffron, ginger, cinnamon, and preserved lemons. The sauce was very tasty but it lacked the preserved lemon flavor that I was looking forward to in this dish. The chicken could have done with longer time on the stove/tagine for it was not quite fall-off-the-bone yet. However, the side of saffron rice blew us away. It was light, very savory, and heady from the saffron threads that added a beautiful yellow tinge as well as its slight flowery fragrance. This side indeed transported us to the sunny fields of North Africa with its wonderful flavors and perfume.

Our next choice was Apricot Lamb Tagine. A lamb shank was marinated overnight with a saffron, ginger and cinnamon sauce, and slow-cooked with a few dried apricots. When it arrived at our table, the meat was moist and literally fork tender, indicating its lengthy cooking on a low heat in a tagine earthen pot. The sauce was complex and very tasty, with a hint of sweetness from the softened apricots. While I was tasting the dish, I detected a certain je ne se quoi as the backnote in the sauce. After some mulling over it, I honed on Orange Blossom Water that I have tasted in Middle Eastern pastry. Upon checking this with the kitchen, my guesswork was confirmed – what a brilliant addition to this flavor profile! This dish was not only tasty but it also evoked a exoticness that woke up a sense of culinary wanderlust. Truly memorable.

We wanted to try the place’s version of a traditional favorite – Chicken Bastilla. However, the kitchen was out of it and we resorted to the Grilled Kafta. Two kebabs arrived on our table which were made from ground beef. It was well-seasoned with a strong hint of chili and other dry fragrant spices. The pool of light tomato sauce provided a slightly sweet and acidic flavor to these pieces of grilled beef – I felt that the other Tzatziki sauce did not contribute much to the dish which remained mostly untouched. The slices of grilled vegetables had the same smoky notes as the Kaftas themselves after having spent the same amount of time as its meat partner on the hot grill. A mound of that saffron rice rounded off the dish which we continuously could not get enough of.

Souk has a fairly short menu filled with traditional Moroccan dishes and a smattering of other Mediterranean dishes. The dishes that we savored were cooked with care and a deft hand that understands flavors of this North African cuisine. The highlights worth tasting are the cold dishes in the Vegetarian Platter, that wonderful tender and savory lamb shank, the spicy and smoky grilled beef kafta, and the fluffy saffron rice that titillated the senses. With such wonderful cooking, you may be tempted to complete this meal with a visit to Sahra Lounge a couple of doors down to smoke a hookah as dessert since both locales are run by the same owner. Morocco meets H Street NE – who would have thought of that!

Thai Square

Restaurants

With a plethora of Thai restaurants dotting nearly every corner of the DMV area, and the number of blogs that I have written about this type of eateries, why another one on this cuisine? Simple: because this establishment has been on my radar for some time since my first visit many moons ago, and the reputation that precedes it. Thai Square is a small joint with only around 10 tables, located in Arlington, VA on a strip filled with other restaurants that I have written about (See Maruko and Bangkok 54). Many a times, there was a small waiting line when we arrived there, which has been a slight deterrence from visiting it more often. But we keep going back to it, taking our chances, to savor some of the dishes that make this place stand out among others.

One of my favorite openers to a Thai meal is Tom Yum Goong, or Spicy Sour Shrimp Soup. This establishment serves this classic sip in a unique way. It comes in a metal pot that has a flame shooting through the middle in the opening. The Tom Yum style here is not quite like the other versions that I have savored – the broth is quite clear and devoid of the normal aromatics of lemongrass, galangal root, and Kaffir lime leaves: a Thai-Chinese style. It is rather flavorful even without the usual aromatics, quite sour from a good squeeze of lime juice, and rather piquant from the slivers of fresh green chilies that provide both spice heat and a slight vegetal fragrant note. The customary straw mushrooms adds the contrasting flavor and texture to the soup along with the pieces of mild sweet shrimp. It takes some time to adjust to this style of this soup but it is worth the order. Just make sure to order it quite spicy since not-too-spicy was a bit too tame for my taste buds. This offering is one of the many traditional hot and cold appetizers that this eatery seems to handle well despite its small kitchen.

Kai Pad Khing Sod is another favorite of ours. It is chicken cooked with wood fungus, ginger slices, and green onions in an oyster and bean paste sauce. The pieces of chicken are tender, the wood fungus a bit crunchy, green onions still firm but not raw, and the slices of ginger provide the bite that lifts the dish. In addition, the gravy made from both sauces is sufficiently flavorful yet complex at the same time. Brown bits of soybeans add a slight fermented salty element to the dish that adds interest to this simple dish. This is definitely a favorite of one of my dinner mates who cannot get enough of the ginger flavor that this dish packs.

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Here is a dish that we cannot resist: Crispy Honey Roasted Duck with Basil. Pieces of roasted duck have been battered and deep-fried, then cooked with pieces of dried chili, and flavored with honey. The pieces are crispy from the frying, sweet from the honey, piquant from the dried chilies, and slightly fragrant from the crispy leaves of deep-fried basil. Although we try to stay away from deep-fried dishes in most restaurants, there seems to be some kind of holy gastronomic dispensation that permits us to continuously order this dish on every visit – it is that good! This is a must order since I have not come across any other restaurant serving this delectable dish. A healthier squid version is equally highly recommended.

A curry dish is a must order at any Thai establishment. Since one of my dinner mates has a low tolerance for spice heat, we chose to order the Yellow Curry. It arrived in a bowl brimming with pieces of chicken breast accompanied by large pieces of potato and slivers of sweet onion. The bird meat was still moist and the tuber well cooked and permeated with the sauce flavors. Despite lacking some chili heat, the curry sauce was quite fragrant from the aromatics and spices while the coconut milk added the necessary smooth richness that tied the elements together. The other curry offerings come in the red, green, country, and Panang versions. It also serves the Roasted Duck in Red Curry Sauce that carries pieces of pineapple and basil leaves along with the aforementioned meat – I recall its spiciness along with the strong flavors of the ingredients that do a good job balancing each other out – quite a spicy treat.

Another must-order here is the Lump Crab Meat Fried Rice. It is rice fried a la Thai with pieces of egg, green onions, sweet onions, carrots, and the star item, jumbo lump crab meat. The rice is flavored with a combination of soy sauce and the slightly seafood-tinged fish sauce that adds an amazing savoriness to this plain grain. The large pieces of crab meat are fresh, adding a moist and sweet flavor to this dish. With some good wok-searing, this dish arrives filled with a complex level of flavors that belies the ingredients’ simplicity. Normally not a huge fan of fried rice dishes, I find this version truly delicious and completely irresistible.

Another seafood dish that I have ordered in the past is Sukiyaki. Yes, it is a Japanese dish but it has been adapted to the Thai palate. The dish consists of pieces of shrimp, scallop, squid, chicken that have been stir-fried with bean thread noodles, Napa cabbage, celery and scallions, served with a slightly sweet and spicy sauce. This dish tastes far from the Japanese version with its level of savoriness that spells clearly Thai. Furthermore, the sauce adds the sweet and spicy notes to the dish. Yes, sweetness is an important and integral flavor element in Thai cuisine.

For dessert, we elected for the true and tested that would hardly disappoint the diner – Mango and Sticky Rice. Since it was the middle of summer, it was the perfect order for the pieces of mango were ripe and sweet. Such fruitiness was paired up and complemented by the rich coconut-laced steamed sticky rice that was further enriched by more salty coconut cream, punctuated by pieces of fragrant sesame seeds. How can you go wrong with this classic Thai combination? On other visits to this locale, we have ordered a sweet stew of Taro root, Yam, and Tapioca Pearls, coated by a coconut cream sauce and sweetened by palm sugar. These dessert dishes are not listed on the menu since they must be seasonal and offered occasionally. Make sure to leave some room for these sweet treats at the end of the meal.

Thai Square is a quaint little eatery that attracts as many Thai customers as the farang, non-Thai. In the many years that I have visited it, I have hardly walked away disappointed but always glad that I took the chance on a quiet night or was patient enough to brave the lines and wait for one of the few tables to clear up. No matter the circumstance, I have always left with a sated stomach and wide smile, vowing to return in the near future. With the really modest prices and wonderfully authentic skilful cooking, there are no excuses not to make the journey, wait in line, and fill the senses with satisfying Thai flavors found in the long listed menu. You’ll know what I mean when you make it there one day.

Addendum: Upon the recommendation of my Thai doctor, I stopped by Thai Square to sample a lunch dish that is not served anywhere else which carries quite a reputation among the cognoscenti – Boat Market Beef Noodle Soup. The large bowl arrived with a mound of rice noodles inundated in a dark rich fragrant beef broth scented with some cinnamon and star anise. The large beef balls were floating like buoys, alongside bits of tender beef, all made fragrant by some fried garlic and fresh cilantro and green onions. Bits of pork crackling added to the lusciousness of this dish. Digging into it, I was transported to the boat markets of Thailand imagining this bowl handed to me by a cook from her floating vessel. It was the perfect noodle soup dish on a cold wet day. My doctor was delighted to receive a take-out order from me during my visit after. This is a must-order during the lunch hours.

Café Citron

Restaurants

In a modern hectic world that lacks enough hours, or so it appears, we seem unable to escape from a retail market that has nearly everything that caters to all our whims and wishes, from the mega-markets of Costco and Wegman’s to eating establishments that offer a fare encompassing a wide variety of cuisines, whether it is Global Fusion (I ate at such a place but it was not worth writing about), Pan-Asian (see blogs on Café Asia and Hee Been Bistro), Pan-European, or the many variations out there. But one cuisine that has resisted such grouping has been the cuisines of Latin America. Why? Try calling any Latino a Mexican, Puerto Rican, Dominican, or Salvadorian without first ascertaining his/her background; the usual acerbic response (“Excuse me, I AM …..) is a good indicator of the nationalistic sentiment that is proudly worn with a certain tinge of defensiveness. With a huge Latino population in the DC area arriving from different nations and subsequent generations being born locally, this subtle yet well-demarcated border is slowly evaporating away with one group incorporating cultural traits and habits from those once viewed with suspect – look at the current popularity of Dominican Bachata music among all Latino groups.

So, when an online coupon offer popped up for a Pan-Latino restaurant, I knew I had to click BUY and explore this unique establishment. Café Citron is located a few doors away from Kababji, a recently reviewed Lebanese restaurant, just south of the busy and pedestrian-heavy Dupont Circle, a neighborhood that has been become chic among the young professionals who have homogenized this once gay ghetto – a large Anne Klein store popping up and the demise of a much beloved gay-oriented bookstore pretty much sealed this deal. From the outside, the restaurant is hardly conspicuous that it is easy to overlook its narrow entrance that seems to be overshadowed by nearby encroaching establishments. But once pass its entryway, you step into a long room filled with banquets on one side and a long bar on the other. I chose to plop myself down at a table upstairs that overlooked the main floor, hoping that I would get some sufficient decent light for this review.

Since I arrived during their Happy Hour (4:00-7:30 p.m.) and the place was already packed with young early diners, I decided to make my selections from the Starters/Tapas menu. I placed my order of 3 meat dishes from the “Qué Rico” (How Tasty) section and an equal amount from the “El Mar” (The Sea) side. For the first meat dish, I chose a house favorite of Venezuelan Empanadas, of which one was stuffed with beef and the other with chicken. Taking my first bite, I marveled at the cornflour dough that was crispy on the outside but moist and slightly spongy under its exterior. Both fillings had moist pieces of meat that were both slightly sweet and savory at the same time, with a hint of cumin to tie in the opposite flavors, much like a Bastilla dish found in Moroccan cuisine (cinnamon is used in this case). The side of spicy and garlicky cilantro sauce added the necessary acidity and spice kick to these small morsels. No surprise that these tasty bites are a house favorite judging by how quickly I devoured them.

Bolivian Sonso with Beef came as the next meat selection. Cubes of beef have been marinated in “exotic spices” and sautéed; they were tender and had the dark spice notes, but initially seemed a bit under salted until I got accustomed to the flavors. The patties of yucca mash and cheese were very delectable and these discs more or less stole the beef’s limelight. The outer part was crisp from the breading and frying, but rich and fluffy in the middle, providing a certain comfort-food quality. The use of yucca here points to the dish’s origins, most likely from the eastern lowlands bordering Brazil since this tropical root does not grow in the interior highlands. The side of the same cilantro sauce above added the necessary notes that lightened the rather filling patties.

Another Bolivian starter was the next choice: Bolivian Potato Cake. A thick pancake made of mashed potato was stuffed with seasoned ground beef and pan-fried, looking much like a Johnny Cake. It was rather fluffy with bits of seasoned beef in the middle. I felt transported to this landlocked nation with the potato cake knowing that the tuber is an indigenous staple of the Andean highlands. Being potato, it was a little stodgy and greasy from the frying. However, the side of spicy salsa and fresh Pico de Gallo added the necessary relief to the heaviness of the dish; an interesting dish though.

OK, enough meat for me, which seems to be staple of Latin-American cuisine. Seafood makes the other mainstay in most Latin-American diet due to the many nations that are surrounded by large bodies of water. My first order was Calamari a la Plancha. This type of seafood cooking is typical at seaside resorts found in Spain and South America. Most of the time, I’m quite leery of the way that most restaurants cook this mollusk, which results in a rubbery toughness. But in this case, it was tender, near fork tender. The large quantity of these seafood rings exuded smokiness from the high-heat searing on the flat griddle. The squeeze of lemon juice was all it needed to make this simple clean tasting dish soar. All this seafood for just $8 during Happy Hour makes it a must-order.

After having recently sampled another restaurant’s rendition of Ceviche and coming out dissatisfied, I decided to give this establishment a try. It arrived in a beautiful scallop-shaped bowl brimming with pieces of shrimp, fish, and chunks of fresh avocado, surrounded by a pile of fresh nacho chips. I must say that I was delighted that I ordered this dish since the shrimp and trout pieces (thank goodness it wasn’t the muddy Tilapia used in the last place) carried a clean tasting citrus flavor without being too acidic. The use of cilantro, fresh tomatoes, sweet red onions, and jalapeño peppers added the extra notes to the seafood, while the nacho scoopers provided the textural contrast to the moist and tender morsels. My only criticism is the slight iodine flavor in the shrimp which was the result of the use of table salt – sea salt would impart a cleaner taste. This wonderful version brought my taste buds to the seaside villages of Peru and Chile, renowned for their renditions of this pickled seafood dish. For $9 during Happy Hour, this would fill your mouth with some seafood joy.

The last dish originates from Mexico, namely Baja California. Shrimp Corn Tortilla Tacos is a regional specialty that takes advantage of the abundance of seafood in the northwestern coast of that country. I quite enjoyed this dish with the homemade corn tortillas that had a faint scent of corn and lime, the rather firm but well-seasoned pieces of grilled shrimp, and the pieces of ripe avocado that lent a richness to these wraps. As with tradition, the tortillas were the soft kind and they came in doubles to be able to support all the bits of seafood goodness. The cilantro leaves and red onions added some pungency, herbal fragrance, and sweetness to the shrimp, while a squeeze of lemon juice, also customary, gave the tacos the citrus hit that made them even more delectable.

Pan-Latino is here to stay, and I am thrilled that Café Citron is the trailblazer in an over-saturated market of Latino restaurants, especially in the Washington DC area, offering a wide variety of tasty offerings from the myriad of Latin-American cuisines that reflect their unique history and their regional and topographical differences. Looking through the menu, I am tempted to pay this establishment another visit soon to try their other dishes that are Cuban, Peruvian, Mexican, or Bolivian-inspired that seem to evoke unique flavors and combinations. Maybe I will end up getting up and shuffling my feet during the free Salsa lessons (offered twice a week) or clapping my hands while the Brazilian Samba dancers were showing off their incredible sensual dexterity during a mid-week visit that livened up the place – as if the delicious food needed a strong supporting actor at all. Entertainment aside, I will be returning for the great bites, the variety of dishes, and the low prices especially during Happy Hour. ¡Bienvenido Pan-Latino!

Bridgeville, DE

Restaurants

Tradition, Tradition, Tradition!!!! Remember that famous song from the Broadway musical, Fiddler on The Roof? We can’t seem to escape from these customs that mark the passing of time with habitually repeated events laden with a sense of meaning associated with them. This is the case when the warm weather comes around between my close-set of friends and me. It usually spells time to head to the beach, specifically Rehoboth Beach, DE. Having already gone there as a group for nearly 15 years, we have developed certain traditions: hearty breakfasts consisting of bacon, sausage, tarragon omelet, and toast with local fruit jams; grilled steaks and local sweet corn for dinner; a day (ok, a couple) at the Outlet Malls (tax-free); hanging out at Poodle Beach (end of the boardwalk) in the afternoons until the rented umbrellas are removed; and stopping by Jimmy’s Grill on the way back to DC/MD on a Sunday afternoon.

Jimmy’s Grill is located within the limits of the quiet and quaint town of Bridgeville, DE, on the Business Route 404 corridor that used to serve as the main thoroughfare to Rehoboth from DC Metro – there is now a bypass around the town known for its 25 mph speed traps. I remember stopping there for the first time years ago. It had a homey feel to the place, but unfortunately, they closed by 6 p.m. on a Sunday and they did not take credit cards then – I had to time my departure from the beach to make it there on time. But 6 years ago they were bought over by the employees (from what I heard), and the place went through some redecorating while maintaining its charm, along with longer hours and the acceptance of credit cards. One thing that has not suffered any change has been the quality of the food and the prices.

Walking into the establishment, you immediately get a sense of home comfort and of local community. Plastered in the vestibule are photos of local folks posing with the owners. Passing through it you are immediately assaulted by a huge cake display tower that would make your eyes bug out from the equally towering home-made cakes that scream “leave some room for me too.” The place is usually filled with a combination of local folks and visiting beach travellers, usually repeat customers. There is nothing fancy about the decor with a few vintage movie posters above the simple banquets or cafeteria-like tables and chairs. But this is not why we, as well as the other diners, are here for. Can I have the menu, please?

Tradition! Fried Chicken! This place is known for this quintessential comfort food that is so straight forward and not fussy at all. That is the only dish I order here because it is that good and I don’t have it anywhere else – where else would serve lots of chicken but in this area renown for the chicken farms that dot the highway. I usually get a piece of moist breast that is well-seasoned throughout the meat (not just the topping) with a crispy, equally seasoned and not overly thick batter. Diet out of the window, I would dig into this extremely irresistible morsel with no guilt, shame or remorse, but with a few dashes of hot sauce. Need I say more? The proof is the in the greasy fingers and meat-strippen bones left on the plate.

Tradition! The side dishes! These small dishes are the equal stars in this eatery that sometimes attempt to steal the limelight from the mains. My favorites are usually the Corn Pudding, Collard Greens, and Lima Beans. The corn pudding is studded with fresh kernel of local corns (corn country here also), slightly sweet, slightly eggy, and quite light for this bowl of rich deliciousness – a must-order for me, always! The collard greens are de rigueur for me as well for its long cooking, delicate seasoning, and the lack of any meat fat in the stock, which I appreciate – a couple of dashes of hot sauce on it and it’s gone. An order of Lima Beans were smooth, silky, not grainy, with bits of tomato that provided some sweet acidity to the starch. I nearly forgot the Scalloped Potatoes that are thinly sliced potatoes covered by a cheesy sauce that make them irresistible and calorie-amnesia producing. Other sides ordered by my buddies included cucumber salad and macaroni and cheese, which seem equally tasty judging by the empty bowls. At times, they offer the local corn-on-the-cob as their special – if you are not corned out by now, you should try it. I could eat just order an array of their sides as my meal and I would be in heaven.

The eatery has daily specials that cater to the traveller as well as the locals. Usually on Sundays, there is Prime Rib or Chicken with Slip Dumplings. On this given day, Rockfish stuffed with Crabmeat was on the menu, which was ordered by my bestie’s bf. A large fillet of the local fish had a mound of lump crabmeat stuffing perched on top. This man tore into his meal like he had never eaten before, and judging by his closed eyes and slow side shaking of his head, I knew it was good – pity I didn’t get to savor a single morsel. Another buddy was so taken by this man’s foodgasm that he had to place an order to go (“Can I have what s/he is having.”). He later reported that is was very good but a little dry, perhaps due to the travelling. Next time, I will place on order especially all that seafood for $14. Another friend’s order of Chicken with Stuffing was tasty and very homey, with chicken breast stuffed with bread stuffing, coated with a thick gravy – it tasted like what a good home cook would serve to her hungry loved ones.

OK, let’s cut to the chase and Let’s Eat Cake! The Rockfish Devourer’s order of Pecan Pie arrived first. But before he could take his first bite, I had to take a picture of it. And did I get a good stare from this famished man until I finished taking the singular shot, even though he had already polished the fish in no time. Again, he had foodgasm, and he even picked it up with a mound of whip cream and ate it like a cookie – it must have been that good! My bestie took out an order of Banana Cake. I tried a forkful and I was amazed by the lightness and moistness of the cake that was filled with banana flavor, small pieces of walnut, and hint of vanilla, all not being too sweet. I could have eaten the whole huge slice even though if I were full, but I would get evil-eyes from him. Another take-out order of Coconut Cake for another friend proved to be equally delectable and successful as the above concoction with a light moist vanilla cake coated with sweet frosting and sweet coconut. Let them eat cake, as well as us!

A new tradition: Last year I stopped by a roadside stand, Evan’s Farm Produce, on the same highway not too far from Jimmy’s Grill, and I bought some local corn as well as a jar of their home-made orange marmalade. Tasting the marmalade at home, I was delighted by the not overly sweet jam, the soft bits of orange rind that exuded a slight bitterness, and the slight acidity from the use of orange juice as the jam. I literally fell in love with this sweet bitter preserve, and I was sad when I ran out of it a couple of months later. So, on my way back to the beach last week, I stopped by the stand and bought 3 bottles in addition to a recommendation, Triple Crown Preserves, consisting of Strawberries, Red Raspberries, and Cherries. Wow! My friends loved this berry-packed jam so much that they finished off half a bottle in a single weekend, and I bought another bottle on my way home, just before stuffing my face at Jimmy’s. Lookout for this fantastic stand just when the Bridgeville bypass merges with Route 404 heading eastward to the beach.

So, on your way to Rehoboth Beach, make sure to look out for Jimmy’s Grill for its wonderful home-style cooking, especially the fried chicken and the wonderful side dishes. Oh, also don’t forget to take home a huge slice of cake and pie. Also, make it a point to stop by Evan’s Farm Produce stand just a mile down the road to stock up on some local corn, orange marmalade, and Triple Crown jam. After sampling the food and goods from these two establishments, they may become new traditions for you and on your beach travels. Happy Summer and Safe Travels!

El Nopalito Grill

Restaurants

One cuisine that has received its fair share of bad rap in this country is the one south of our border – Mexican. Most of it can be attributed to the mediocre and uninspiring fare served in Tex-Mex restaurant that most of us have eaten as a foray to our experience with this cuisine. However, my introduction to its true authenticity began when I was teaching in a Catholic girls school in Bladensburg, MD. At the bottom of the hill was a fast-growing pocket of Mexican immigrants. Not being too shy to find a good eat anywhere, I asked the locals and they pointed me to a small hole-in-a-wall. It was in this dive that I discovered true Mexican dishes – Mole Poblano, Shrimp Cocktail, Mexican Ceviche, Quesadillas, Enchiladas, Tamales, and exotic drinks like Horchata, Tamarindo, Fruit Shakes and Mexican Sodas (made with real sugar). This experience provided me the opening door to a rich culinary tradition, and I knew that this was a vast territory that I had to explore.

Having received an online offer to El Nopalito Grill, I was excited to try another Modern Mexican restaurant after having discovered Casa Oaxaca (see blog) a couple of months back. It is located at the corner of a rather busy intersection, nestled between several businesses in a strip mall located in the upper reaches of Silver Spring – this MD suburb city is so extensive hence it is easily confused with neighboring cities at the same time. Looking at the restaurant’s online site, I was impressed by the owner/chef’s resumé which reads as a pedigreed culinary training: stints at Le Pavilion, Red Sage, Coyote Cafe, Bistro Provence, Four Seasons Hotel and Filomena, all restaurants that ring a familiar bell to the DC cognoscenti. With a new Spanish teacher colleague in tow, I stepped into El Nopalito Grill with some anticipation and a hungry stomach.

A good indicator of the quality of cooking in an establishment is usually found in the simple things, like chips and salsa. The Nacho Chips were light and almost greaseless, and my dining partner remarked that the Salsa was freshly made judging by the lack of a canned metallic taste or high acidity. It was indeed fresh and filled with small chopped tomato pieces swimming in a slightly sweet tomato sauce spiked with some pungent onions, fragrant cilantro, and searing chiles. Another simple yet telling dip is the Fresh Guacamole. It came prepared a la minute with large chunks of ripe and creamy smooth avocado with bits of sweet onion and seasoned with just salt, very much like how guacamole is simply made in Mexico (the US version tends to come with tomato, cilantro, and lime juice). These dips were very tasty and refreshing, good enough to build up more anticipation for what was to come.

We decided to try out a couple of salads. The first was the Mango and Jicama Salad. Slices of julienned mango and jicama along with thin slices of red onions were sitting on a bed of fresh greens. I enjoyed the combination of the sweet soft ripe mango paired with the rather bland crunchy pieces of Jicama, akin to the texture of pear sans the sweetness. The red onions slices added some sweet pungency to the dish, and the avocado salad dressing was good but not discernible in any special way; perhaps it was overwhelmed by the onion and mango. But it was refreshing indeed and not your typical salad fare. An order of Palmito Salad came with heart of palm rings along with slices of orange on a bed of salad. The elements on the salad felt disparate and even the cilantro dressing could not serve as the liaison between the non-binding ingredients. It was not bad, just ho-hum.

As for our main courses, we made our selections from the Tapas menu. Since my new colleague is a pescatarian, we zoned in on the Ceviche. It came with pieces of marinated fish and shrimp sitting on a bed of lettuce and pickled onions, and topped with thin fried tortilla strips. Although the menu states that the dish comes with jalapeño peppers, I could not see any or taste the spice heat. This flavor profile would have made a difference since the dish carried a one-note acidity which did not elevate the seafood pieces. Furthermore, the use of fish, I suspect Tilapia, was unfortunate as it had a muddy flavor that overwhelmed the whole dish. The pieces of shrimp were plump and sweet and they were pretty much the saving grace in the dish. Realizing that these small missteps in the Ceviche could be overlooked, I knew there were some dishes on the menu that would definitely get my attention.

Another dish suitable for any pescatarian is the Chile Relleno. Traditionally, this dish is filled with a meat or cheese stuffing. However, this restaurant’s rendition takes this humble concoction to another level. The roasted poblano pepper was stuffed with a melange of shredded crabmeat, bits of shrimp and a mild cheese, sitting on a pool of tomato and tomatillo sauce. The slightly piquant and smoky pepper made the perfect partner to the mild, seafood-sweet and rich stuffing that made the dish irresistible to this diner. The well-made sauces provided a slightly sweet and acidic element to each bite, which brought more interesting notes to the whole dish. A definite order in my books.

I ordered the Duck Tamale which is a novel dish for me and an interesting spin on this regular Mexican fare. However, I was later told that the kitchen had run out of it, and I settled for the Chicken version with a certain sense of disappointment. However, the first bite proved to be quite the opposite of a let-down. The steamed white cornmeal was light and fluffy, packed with flavor and studded with bits of crushed fresh corn which brought a slight sweetness and earthiness to the simple dough. The chicken stuffing was shredded pieces that were still moist and well-seasoned. The banana leaf that wrapped the tamale during its steaming had imparted a fragrant vegetal note to the whole dish, and it provided a beautiful design element to the plate. Here, we see another example of the Chef’s ability to take a simple humble dish to a sophisticated level. If this is the Chicken Tamale, I cannot wait to taste the duck version on my next visit.

One dish that called my attention while perusing the menu, and to also satisfy the meat-lover reader, was Beef Carnitas. A thin piece of flank steak came grilled and paired with a trio of yellow, green and poblano mole sauces. The steak was tender, smoky from proper grilling, and rich tasting from some ageing before its visit on the hot grill. The different mole sauces added notes of acidity, salty, sweet, and smoke (dried chile exudes this note) to the already rich-tasting dish. What I appreciate about this dish was the level of care in the cooking of the meat and the delicacy of the different sauces that did not overwhelm the beef. This dish will definitely satisfy the beef lover, despite the small portion which was enough for me, for its wonderful cooking and flavors.

El Nopalito Grill serves authentic Mexican fare that reflects a rich culinary tradition that does not resemble what most Americans are used to or familiar with. Despite a few small missteps in a couple of dishes that we savored, the successful ones point towards a knowledgeable and skillful kitchen that delivers delectable dishes that are well-made and quite sophisticated at times. Here, one senses this ethnic cuisine heading in a new direction that would entice the novice. This restaurant may tempt you to hike up into the suburbs to savor the Mango and Jicama Salad, Tamale, Chile Relleno or the Beef Carnitas. I see another visit for me soon to sample the rest of the menu in the near future.