wongeats

LA/Pasadena

In order to recover from my winter blues, albeit a snowless and mild one on the East Coast, I decided to spend a week on the West Coast and to get reacquainted with a new online friend that I had met in the DC area last November. The last time I spent some time in the Los Angeles area was nearly 20 years ago with my sister’s high school mate. Since my new friend lives in Pasadena, which he speaks highly of his beloved city, I thought it would be an opportunity to learn about the city that hosts the annual Rose Bowl Parade with hundreds of flower-decked floats parading down its tree-lined streets.
Pasadena is indeed as beautiful as my friend touted it to be with the charming houses, parks, and the abundance of greenery amidst an arid climate, which left me parched most of the time. Knowing that I was quite the gourmand and a food blogger, my host was the perfect gentleman by making himself available to take me around and locate the restaurants that I was interested in trying out, as well as some of his and his friends’ recommendations.

After picking me up from an amazingly serene LAX airport (catching the first flight on a Sunday must be the secret here), we headed out to Lemonade, a new chain whose food can be best described as California Fusion. As you walk into the serving line, you notice that the first items offered are the side dishes, followed by salads, meat and seafood, sandwiches, stews and hot dishes, and lastly the dessert choices. Since the sides came in large portions, customers are encouraged to order them in half portions. My selections were a varied quartet consisting of a seared tuna salad with snap peas, watermelon radish, black sesame seeds, ginger, and a hint of nutty sesame oil; a daily special of fresh asparagus, crisp red radishes, and sweet lychee (yumm!)in a biting horseradish sauce; cubes of roasted sweet potatoes mixed with roasted pistachios; and Israeli couscous with mushrooms, parmesan, and lemon truffle – all the sides were amazingly fresh (no surprise since we are in bountiful California) and packed with flavor, except for the last side which seriously lacked any seasoning beyond the taste of olive oil. For protein, strips of seared sashimi-grade tuna with a sweet and citrusy yuzu sauce hit the spot. Since my friend is a sweet-tooth fiend, an order of the banana cake was quite heavenly with the very light sponge batter seeping in banana flavor and the layers interspersed with banana slices and mascarpone cream. The meal was washed down by the different lemonades which this eatery is known for – mine was Ginger Peach which was a good spicy choice. This is fast, fresh, but not-so-cheap eat since all the portions do rack up quite a bill before your tray arrives at the cashier (notice how the sides are strategically placed at the front of the line). However, it is worth an occasional visit for their fresh and rather creative offerings.

The next morning, my friend suggested eating at an LA institution, Roscoe’s Chicken and Waffles House. I had tried their food before in another branch in Oakland, CA a few years back, and this day’s offering did not disappoint me a single bit. My friend had an order of crispy waffle and a piece of fried chicken that had its seasoning permeating every inch of each bite. A side order of grits (well-cooked here, unlike most places) and gravy that was fairly light (yeah, sure!), yet tasty, rounded off this rib-sticking “itis”-producing breakfast. My order of Southern-style sausage and over-easy eggs were a lighter (only by a few calories) yet satisfying choice for me. It seems that this place is a “must-visit” kind of eatery judging by the photos of the famous and not-so-famous celebrities on the surrounding walls.

For lunch, we checked out a couple of places. The first was Mediterranean Café which serves typical Lebanese fare. According to my friend, there is always a line wrapped around the block when he pays his frequent lunch visits. And understandably so – the Chicken Shwarma and Beef Kabob were well seasoned with the smoky charring from charcoal grilling, Greek Salad ingredients fresh and ripe, the Hummus creamy and correctly seasoned to claim its new identity beyond chickpeas, the Rice Pilaf buttery and fluffy, and the Pita Bread freshly made and still pliable. A conversation with the owner would only confirm the level of quality control and passion that he and his son bring to this simple yet wonderful eatery.

A hunt for a roving Taco food truck in a predominantly Hispanic neighborhood (see what I would do for good eats!) proved to be futile since most do not open for lunch as they tend to cater to single men looking for grub after working hours. With the help of the Yelp application on my smart phone, I came across Mi Casa Mexican Restaurant that had received many glowing reviews. After locating this eatery, we sat down at this rather quaint and very clean restaurant. We decided to try an assortment of Tacos – Barbeque Pork (Carnitas), Beef Tongue (Lengua), and Breaded Shrimp (Camarones) all enveloped by soft tortillas. All the meats and shrimp were well-prepared and not overly seasoned, and the side sauces of green tomatillo and red roasted peppers took these bites to a fiery level. An order of Beef Quesadilla (Carne Asada) was very delicious with the thin freshly made tortillas sandwiching a hint of cheese and brimming with small chunks of seasoned beef. The sides of Mexican Rice and Refried Beans were fresh tasting and surprisingly light. An order of the exotic Pickled Cactus Salad (Nopales) had the right hint of vinegar without being too acidic, which my not-so-adventurous friend was stabbing at with curiosity after some time. A washing down with the cinnamon-laced rice milk (Horchata) was perfect since it was not too sweet or too thick. I knew I would eventually find some good Mexican eats around the LA area, and I’m glad I paid a visit to Mi Casa, with the help of modern technology, of course.

For dinner, we decided to visit one my friend’s favorite haunts. Harold and Belle’s has been serving Creole cuisine since 1969 in the heart of Black LA in the Crenshaw/Inglewood area. Stepping in, you are immediately transported to the Southern bayou state with the French influenced décor that speaks of a forgotten era. We started with the Filé Gumbo that was rich, although a bit thin, but filled with dark flavors from the brown roux, sassafras root, and the smoked meats. Our mains started with Fried Catfish Strips that were amazingly light with a clean flavor and incredibly thin yet crispy cornmeal batter. The sides consisted of Jambalaya, which was decent, and the Red Beans, which were smoky and flavorful from the use of smoked sausages. The other main, a cocotte of Crawfish Etouffée, was just heavenly with its rich tomato based cream sauce and a plethora of moist and bouncy bits of peeled crawfish tails, whose richness was complemented by fluffy white rice. Even though we were quite stuffed at this point, my friend insisted that I tried the Bread Pudding. This dessert was indeed an eye-rolling-back and toe-curling experience with the moist pudding studded with sweet plump raisins that was drenched in a mean salty rum sauce that was boozy enough to call it a shot. This is not cheap eats here but definitely worth visiting and lapping up the amazingly delicious food. Just don’t ask the Bloods and Crypts gang members next to your table (I guess good food knows no boundaries) to take your picture – I should have noticed the tattooed teardrop under their eyes before my observant host stopped me.

The LA/Pasadena area has an amazing variety of good eats and different cuisines due to its multi-cultural population. It is worth exploring these different places while one has to be a bit adventurous and have a good guide or host, or smart phone application, to find these places. I’m sure there are many more eateries worth checking out, and I can’t wait to pay the West Coast another visit in the near future.

Cafe Asia

Restaurants

On a wet Saturday afternoon that was brightened by a sea of delicate pink-hued blooming cherry blossoms around the Monuments and the Tidal Basin area, I met up for the first time with two Facebook friends that were in town for the Reason Rally, a confluence of Atheists in the Mall marching for their beliefs and cause (they should have at least consulted a Weather God before setting their date). It was a rather impromptu meeting, and with a quick decision to be made, I decided to take them to one of my regular haunts.

I have been going to Cafe Asia ever since it opened its doors in the 18th Street location in 1991. My former roommate and I stumbled across this 3-storey townhouse restaurant after working out in a gym, and ever since then, we have been paying regular visits to the place. We got to know the owner, who hails from Hong Kong, and forged a close long-term friendship. Ever since then, they have moved to their new locales on I St downtown and Rosslyn, Va, just across the river from DC. It was to this last location that I decided to bring my newly made friends.

Since my Jamaica-born and China-born friends were not familiar with the menu, they left it to me to make some suggestions and order for all. One of my favorites is the Crispy Fried Calamari. This is not your regular fried calamari that appears in most menus. Here, they are tender pieces of squid that have been coated by a well-seasoned batter that is amazingly light, crispy and nearly greaseless – according to the owner, the secret is the use of Asian squid that provides that level of tenderness. The Thai sweet chili sauce on the side provide the perfect foil of sweetness and spice to the mild pieces of seafood. I have friends that swear that this restaurant’s rendition is the best in town, and my Jamaican friend was devouring so much of it that I was afraid that the former Pentecostal was going to get up and speak in tongues, or even worse, roll down the aisles in ecstatic joy.

Since my other friend was from China, I decided to order the Spicy Chinese Ravioli. They are basically boiled wantons with a pork stuffing and submerged in a tasty sauce made with soy sauce, black vinegar, chili oil, and sesame oil. The stuffing was quite tasty, but the sauce took these dumplings to another level with its soy brininess, the vinegar dark acid notes, the chili heat, and the sesame oil nuttiness. My Chinese friend seemed to be enjoying it and I insisted that he finished the last one in the bowl.

For the mains, I thought that my friends would enjoy some of my favorite dishes. The first is Curry Laksa, a Malaysian dish that I grew up on and was regularly cooked by my maternal grandmother for our weekly Saturday lunch gatherings. It comes in a huge bowl filled with a sea of a light coconut milk curry broth, a flotilla of fried tofu squares, little islands of chicken and shrimp, all hiding a huge mound of egg noodles and rice vermicelli noodles. My friends exclaimed that it was interesting as it tasted like a lighter version of Thai food as they expected a richer creamier dish. But it has to be this light since it is basically a noodle soup, thus the large quantity which would be difficult to finish if it were richer. That day’s serving was lacking enough lime juice which is necessary to cut through the richness. But I still enjoyed it thoroughly which made it the perfect dish for a Saturday afternoon, much like during my childhood – it nearly made this former Catholic want to praise one of the Saints for this bowl of heaven.

Another main that I chose from the menu was Nasi Uduk, an Indonesian staple. Surrounding a mound of rice cooked with coconut milk is Rendang beef stew, chicken satay, cooked vegetables with peanut sauce, spicy pickled vegetables, fried dried fish and peanuts, fried fish chips, and a fiery chili paste. This is truly a Southeast Asian smogarsbord of different flavors and textures: the fragrant rich coconut rice, the spicy and aromatic beef stew, the smokey grilled satay, the irresistible fried dried fish and peanuts, the addictive fish chips, and the mouth-searing chili paste. The sides of cooked vegetable salad and pickles provide a relief from the richness and spice-heat in the other elements. This kitchen delivers a good rendition of this dish, and we were all picking through all the different parts of the platter.

The last main dish was a Singaporean/Malaysian favorite – Gway Tio. Wide ribbons of rice noodle are paired with chicken, egg, crunchy fresh beansprouts, large pieces of pungent scallion, all brought together by a thick soy sauce with its slight caramel-like sweetness along with some soy saltiness. Pieces of green chili provide a kick of heat that elevate the dish to another level. Some serious hot wok searing has contributed a level of smokey caramelization that is the key to success in this dish as it adds a depth of flavor to the rice noodles. My Chinese friend seemed to enjoying it the most by his constant stabbing at the dish with his chopsticks. He was probably silently thanking Confucius or Mao for this soulful bite that pays its tribute to the dish’s Chinese roots flavored with Southeast Asian seasonings.

On a previous occasion, a dining companion had the Salmon Teriyaki as part of his meal. It is a fillet of salmon that has been seared on the grill and slathered with teriyaki sauce. The fish was still moist from the cooking, and the sauce provided a sweet and salty element to the protein. The side of tasty Asian cabbage slaw was the crispy and cool contrast to the fish. The piece of salmon is usually very generous here, and it is well-cooked with the right amount of seasoning in the sauce without being cloying sweet. The restaurant truly delivers on this Japanese seafood dish.

On this same visit, we were “rewarded” with some Asian ice-creams – the perks of being friends with the owner and as long-term customers. One portion was made with Red Beans, and the other made with Crystallized Ginger. The red bean version is an acquired taste, which I grew up on, with its, how can I put it, “beaniness” and distinctive flavor. The crystallized ginger one would appeal to most palates with its slightly biting yet sweet flavors. These made the perfect ending to the meal, especially after a few spicy and rich dishes.

Cafe Asia is a Pan Asian restaurant that has been very successful in the DC area for a many years now, and it is consistently rated highly by online readers for its quality and value. This is what I know: Facebook friends do exist and they will show-up in real life when planned; Cafe Asia delivers consistent and well-cooked Asian dishes that you can always rely on; and that my Atheist friends have a great sense of humor and will forgive me and will meet me again after reading this blog (I’m counting on my lucky stars this time for this!).

Kababji

Restaurants

One of my favorite things to do when I would visit my twin brother in Dearborn, near Detroit, was to pop into the many Lebanese eateries that heavily dot and pretty much revitalized the westside of Motown, abandoned after the race riots of the 60’s. I would savour for the first time the interesting dishes that revealed a new world of spices and unique flavor profiles. Back in Washington DC, I would be invited by a good friend who is Lebanese-Armenian, and his mother would treat me to her wonderful home-cooking – an array of dishes consisting of cheese rolls, Fatoush (vegetable salad with crispy pita), Hummus, Kebbeh (cracked wheat and beef meatballs), stewed meat-stuffed zucchini, and many more wonderful flavorful dishes. The evening was usually capped off with a tray of imported assorted pastries (smaller portions and less sweet than the Arab-American versions) after having just spent long hours in his suitcase on the way back from a recent visit to his beloved homeland.

I must admit that I have not ventured into many Lebanese restaurants in the area since I have been spoiled by my friend’s mother’s cooking and the lack of their presence in the city. But when the opportunity to try out a new restaurant just south of Dupont Circle came up, and while I am currently on my Middle Eastern food kick (see blogs on Mediterranean Kabob and Marrakesh P Street), I hauled along my fore mentioned friend as the connoisseur, and another companion to the eatery on a Friday night. Upon entering Kababji Grill, you sense its modern feel from the slick-looking kabob bar near the entrance to the swanky dining area hightlighted by a uplit minimalistic mural as the focal point. My friend immediately recognized the decor and the brand name – he quipped that he had visited their other branches in Lebanon, Kuwait, and Cairo. Perusing the menu, we were excited to try out some familiar dishes and some I had not heard of.

While deciding on the dishes, we received the complementary spiced baked pita bread and cured olives. The crispy bread was brittle and greaseless from the baking, while it was spiced by Zataar (a fragrant powder with dark smokey notes) and nutty toasted sesame seeds. The pieces were irresistible and we managed to polish them off quite quickly, partly due to the tasty seasoning. The cured olives were quite meaty and fruity with a touch of salinity but really nothing extraordinary.

We decided to order a variety of Mezzas, or small dishes, to start the meal off. The first was the obiquitous Hummus. However, this order came with minced beef that has been mildly seasoned with exotic spices. The different elements had contrasting textures and flavors that were brought together by a healthy drizzle of fruity olive oil. I enjoyed this flavor combination while a side of soft pita bread made the perfect vehicle to scoop up the chickpea puree. However, I would have appreciated a bit more lemon juice in the hummus in order to provide more acidity to the rather mild concoction.

The next appetizer was something that I had never tasted before – Kebbeh Latkin. It is a baked pumpkin and cracked wheat crust sandwiching a stuffing consisting of cooked Swiss chard, chickpea, sumac and onion. The crispy crust was slightly sweet from the bits of pumpkin, and the stuffing was very savoury with the different vegetable elements and slightly sour sumac spice. All three diners enjoyed the different textures and flavors in this unique scrumptious bite. The side of cucumber yogurt provided the rich cooling element to the warm pie.

The third small-bite was an order of Arayes. It is pocket pita that has been stuffed with ground beef, parsley, fresh tomato sauce, hot pepper paste, pine nuts, and the house seasoning. A short stay on a charcoal grill was evident by the charred marks on the bread. The filling was flavor-packed from the different elements, and the grill flavor on the pita added another note to the tasty profile. We were getting quite full from the different Mezzas that made a good opener to the meal.

For our entrées, we decided to try a couple of dishes. The first was the day’s special. The restaurant offers a daily special everyday, and that day’s was Milokeyeh. When my Lebanese friend noticed it on the menu, he was thrilled by its presence and recommended that we ordered it. It is a stew made with Milokeyeh leaves (akin to spinach), chicken, rice, garlic, and cilantro with a fairly robust citrus lemon hit. I must say that this dish had a unique and exotic flavor yet I found it savory and quite irresistible, and which my friend was lapping up with gusto. The side of buttery Rice Pilaf made with toasted vermicelli and topped with a sprinkling of cinnamon powder was the perfect accompaniment to the stew.

For the last main course, we decided to go with the familiar – Kafta Kabob. It is basically grilled seasoned ground beef kebab. It was served with some grilled onions, green pepper, and eggplant, along with that aromatic cinnamon-laced Rice Pilaf. It was well-made and decent, but not as tasty and seasoned as those we have tried in other Middle-Eastern eateries – my friend commented that Lebanese kabobs are less seasoned than other renditions. Slices of pita bread slathered with a spicy paste made a good tasty wrap around the grilled beef.

Kababji Grill offers good and tasty authentic Lebanese cuisine, from the familiar dishes like Kabob and Hummus to the more unknown dishes like the day’s special of Milokeyeh stew and the pumpkin-cracked wheat-Swiss chard pie. Such a wide offering is not common in most Lebanese restaurants, especially in a downtown location. It is a pity that we had no room left for the pastry desserts that are customarily enjoyed at the end of a meal, and I could not review on their sweet offerings. But the dishes that we tasted there were very flavorful and satisfying, good enough for me to want to pay it another visit in the future – I am sure my Lebanese friend would love to tag along the next time.

Mandu

Restaurants

An attempt to have brunch at a Cajun eatery a couple of weeks ago had to be aborted. We arrived there just past the opening hour (1 p.m.), and we were told by the hostess that they would not seat us for another hour due to a staff shortage. I asked to speak to the manager, and he reassured me that it was going to be a 10-minute wait. While sitting at the bar while the restaurant was half empty, we struck up a conversation with a young couple who were equally as perplexed as we were, and they relayed that they had heard that it was the chef’s second day on the cooking line. Upon hearing this, my friend and I looked at each other and quickly hauled our behinds out of that joint.

Just a block down is Mandu, a Korean restaurant that serves traditional cuisine in a modern setting. Most Korean restaurants that I have frequented are usually located in remote warehouse areas, or in little “Koreatowns” in the suburbs, where English is the second language judging by the retail signs and advertisements. To stumble across one in the heart of the city, Dupont Circle, is definitely a rarity and a pleasant surprise. My dining partner had noticed their $12 lunch special on his way to the first locale, and we decided to give Mandu a try being that it was getting to be way past my meal time (hypoglycemia is nature’s most infallible meal clock).

Stepping in the restaurant, you do not get the impression that it is a typical Korean eatery due to the rather modern ambience and the multi-cultural staff. Having visited this place in its previous life as a Himalayan restaurant years ago, I knew there was a second floor with beautiful lighting and it was more spacious than the bottom floor. We planted ourselves at a table under the skylight and proceeded to order.

We decided to begin the meal with a house libation – Soujutini. It is made with a Korean distilled liquor and an assortment of juice flavors – aloe, grape, mango, peach, pineapple, orange or yogurt. I ordered mine made with aloe juice since I love this stuff, which I get regularly from my Korean grocer. The liquor had a kick to it while it provided a rather strong grain alcohol note to the sweet juice. My friend’s version was made with yogurt which was interesting, and according to him, it tasted a bit like medicine – not quite Bailey’s Cream here.

We decided to order a traditional appetizer, Mandu or Pot Stickers. This place offers a variety made with Shrimp, Beef & Pork, or Vegetable. The kitchen was flexible enough to allow me to order a couple of each type, which is not common in most Korean eateries. The plate arrived with the potstickers lightly pan-fried after a short boil. The dough was quite al dente but not overly so, and the different fillings were discernable. The accompanying dipping sauce provided the soy-saltiness and rice-vinegar-sourness to these dumplings – a good start.

My favorite part of a Korean meal is the array of pickles and cold vegetable dishes that are customarily served with the main course. Ours arrived with the omnipresent Kimchi pickles, eggplant and broccoli, pickled cucumbers, and marinated potato with green beans. The Kimchi was fiery, sour, and not too pungent (most are sanitized for the American palate), the eggplant and broccoli were still slightly crunchy with a sesame oil note (my friend enjoyed this), the cucumbers were fiery and slightly sour (loved it), and the marinated potato was really flavorful due to a sweet soy marinade. I could have eaten the whole plate alone but I had to share (drats). We requested another plate after we polished this one off quickly.

Our brunch platter came in a long quadrangle plate with the different elements taking their proper place. As an attempt to bring in a non-Korean clientele and to provide a brunch menu, this platter has traditional dishes along with typical American brunch fare. The traditional elements were a choice of Beef, Pork, Chicken or Vegetarian Korean barbecue, Gimbap (Korean vegetable-rice roll), Chive Pancakes, alongside the non-Korean hash browns and a vegetable omelette. The hash browns and omelette (real fluffy and light) were decent but nothing spectacular, the pancakes a bit gummy (most I have tried usually are) but tasty, the Gimbap roll was good and fresh, my order of Pork barbecue was full of flavor but not as fiery as I have had elsewhere, and my friend’s order of Beef was tender and had the customary sweet, salty, and dark flavors. Nothing particularly outstanding but good enough for me.

A bowl of fresh-cut fruits was the dessert offering that came with the brunch special. It looked very pretty, but the pieces of cantaloupe and melon were still a bit crunchy and not at their prime. But I can’t expect these fruits to be at their peak during a time when we have not approached Spring yet. However, it provided a good palate cleanser after the above dishes.

If you happen to be downtown and in the mood for Korean fare, Mandu has two restaurants (K St. and 18th St.) that will provide a casual modern ambience with good authentic cooking; this would save you a trip out of town and into the suburbs. The menu is quite extensive and its offerings sound appealing, especially the small-bites (Jeon) and the stew dishes. I see myself making another visit in the near future.

Green Papaya

Restaurants

Note: Unfortunately, this establishment has closed down.

My undergraduate college days in Memphis must have had quite an impression on me for it was in that Mid-South city that I was introduced to many new experiences at a youthful age of 17 years old (also see last blog on Mediterranean Kabob). One of them would take place quite regularly next to a dark parking lot behind a drive-in theater screen – yes, this was the early 80’s. That was the location of one of the few Vietnamese restaurants in the city which my brother, future sister-in-law, and I would pay numerous visits in order to taste this Southeast Asian cuisine that shares similar notes with the foods we grew up on. This was also the era in which Thai restaurants were not in vogue yet, which may seem unimaginable these days. In this little dive, I was introduced to its traditional dishes and to the exquisiteness of Vietnamese cuisine. A visit there was always a soul-satisfying cheap eat, especially for us money-strapped students.

When I arrived in the DC area for my graduate school in music, there were a plethora of Vietnamese eateries in the metro area due to the high number of immigrants that established themselves in the metro area. Not far from the university that I was attending were a couple of Pho Beef Noodle shops that I frequented often, especially during the cold months. I had heard of a shopping plaza in Falls Church, VA where many good restaurants were located, and over the next few years, I would visit a couple of these restaurants and savored truly authentic and delectable dishes in which a mostly Vietnamese crowd was seen enjoying. However, a month ago, a few friends and I paid a visit to one of these eateries in Eden Center (or Little Saigon as I call it) and we had a quite disappointing experience. To make matters worse, one of our favorite joints had moved further out to the boonies, and the word on the street was that its kitchen’s cooking has been adapted to the non-Vietnamese clientele in their new locale. Another Vietnamese restaurant in the city closed down a couple of years ago which brought a collective moan among the dinner group.

I had known about Green Papaya in the Bethesda Row area for a number of years, and the reviews that I had read had been quite glowing. However, Bethesda has been a bit of a culinary terra incognito for me, since it is located on the other side of the beltway and some members of my dinner group are, hmmm, geographically challenged, thus making a trip out there close to impossible. But one Friday, a friend and I were the only ones available, and with a coupon (yes, those dreaded things again, LOL) as an incentive, we headed out to the land of the unknown. We had a challenge paying for the parking since we did not have enough change, and we had to register our credit card on the phone in order to pay the meter. When we got to the restaurant, we were slightly frazzled by the parking hurdle, but stepping into the low-light ambience, we quickly settled into the extensive menu and the luxurious yet soothing environment. Perusing it, I recognized many traditional dishes along with modern renditions of recognizable flavors. Since it was my first visit, I decided to stick with the familiar.

The meal started with a couple of traditional appetizers – Chai Tom Cuom. It is minced shrimp wrapped around fresh sugarcane strips as skewers and then grilled. The grilled shrimp paste was moist from a hint of coconut milk, smokey from the grilling, and delicate from its light seasoning. It was stuffed inside a rice wrapper along with rice vermicelli and fresh lettuce, with a delicate peanut sauce and chili sauce on the side for extra flavoring. This was one of the best fresh wraps that I have tasted, and I was constantly marvelling about the delicateness of the different textures and flavors. Chewing on the sugarcane skewers was a great accompaniment and flavor partner to the rolls which were made rather mild by the grilling. After devouring this appetizer, I knew that there were more good things to come.

The other opener was a dish that I have eaten in many places – Green Papaya Salad. Thin julienned strips of green papaya are joined by strips of chicken, fragrant basil and mint leaves, crunchy fried shallot rings, all married together by a cocktail of fish sauce, lime juice, and sugar. Pieces of delicate fish crackers surround the mound and they provide the crispy platform to serve and eat the salad. This was truly refreshing and flavorful, whose success is mainly attributed to the well-balanced and delicate salad sauce – there are no single element that is vying for attention in this concoction. Here, we see the kitchen’s masterful hand and the establishment’s use of high quality in its ingredients, especially in the fish sauce that I was straight-sipping like fine whiskey. I could not get enough of this dish but I had to make sure I had room for the rest of the meal.

Banh Xeo has always been a favorite of mine since the Memphis days. It is basically a stuffed pancake, a vestige from Vietnam’s French colonial days. This restaurant’s version had the customary crispy golden exterior, a moist interior, and a filling of shrimp, chicken, onion and bean sprouts. What makes this rendition stand out is the batter that has been enriched by coconut milk and the soufflé-like interior which was a contrast to the crunchy top. Flavor enhancers on the side were fragrant basil leaves and a heavenly elixir made with high-quality fish sauce that provided the necessary saltiness to the slightly bland pancake – this pairing is obligatory, hence the deliberately underseasoned batter. Large pieces of lettuce leaves provided the crispy and cooling element to this wonderful dish.

A familiar dish served in many Vietnamese restaurants is a Caramelized dish, and in my case, made with chicken (Ga Kho Ghung). Its sauce is made with some caramelized sugar that tempers the pungent and salty fish sauce. This restaurant’s version had the right proportion of the slightly sweet and the brininess, made successful in large part due to its high-quality fish sauce. The pieces of chicken were very moist and tender and this dish kept begging for more of my attention. I must admit that this has been probably the best caramelized dish I have ever tasted.

My dining companion’s choice was a perennial selection, Lemongrass Beef – Bun Bo Nuong. It is usually served with cold vermicelli noodles but upon request, it came with some hot steaming rice. Wow! The beef was so tender, an indication of the high-quality meat, and it was packed with the lemongrass flavor with a hint of the grill smokiness. A topping consisting of fried green onions, toasted peanuts, and crispy fried shallots added more flavor and texture to the dish. I guess I should not have complained about my friend’s order this time, judging by my effusive remarks.

Unequivocally, this is the best Vietnamese food that I have eaten in the metro area. The whole dining experience was indeed pleasant and warm, from the lush beautiful ambience to the efficient amiable service. But the true star is the kitchen’s expert hand in producing the best dishes that I have ever savored of this Southeast Asian cuisine . I cannot wait to pay it another visit to try the owner’s recommendations of the Caramelized Chilean Sea Bass and Lemongrass Rack of Lamb. Green Papaya is most definitely a restaurant worth paying a visit and dealing with the parking issues – perhaps my next visit will be on the weekend, when parking is free.

Mediterranean Kabob

Restaurants

Note: The restaurant is currently under new management with a new menu.

My introduction to Persian cuisine came by in a most unlikely and circuitous way. My twin brother and I were college students in Memphis, TN, and we were active members of the International Student Union. Its president was a charming and feisty young Persian lady that my brother had started to date and spend a lot of time with. On the weekends, we would go over to her mother’s house in Midtown, and walking in, you were immediately enveloped by the most wonderful waft of exotic food that awaited us. One of my favorite dishes was a chicken rice dish that was delicately perfumed by a handful of fresh dill, and it was usually brought out with the golden-brown bottom crust nestled on the top as its crown, which was considered the most prized part. After dinner, we would sit around on the plush carpet and pillows while we cracked nuts and peeled fresh pomegranates as dessert, while sensual Persian music played in the background as we tested our limberness with some rhythmic hip gyrations aided along by some youthful imbibing. My college days in the 80’s were filled with excitement and cultural adventure, despite being in the Mid-South and the “quiet uneasiness” that saturated its air.

A few years ago, having already relocated to the DC metro area, I moved from the middle part of the county to the most northern part, Laurel, MD. It was a big change for me especially culinary-wise. In my new area, I have at my doorstep a wide variety of restaurants, especially ethnic ones, that my old stomping ground was severely lacking. Just off the city’s main thoroughfare is Mediterranean Kabob that sits in the corner of the courtyard of a fairly new set of condominiums. When I first stepped into its doors, I was glad to find a place where decent Middle Eastern food was served and close to me. It has the usual fare that we would usually associate with this cuisine: Kabobs, Pita Bread, Stuffed Grape Leaves, Basmati Rice, Falafels (real good, btw), Gyro sandwiches, and Baklavas for dessert. But since last year, a $10 lunch buffet has been added during the work week, and here we see the restaurant offering the customer some really exciting and unique Persian dishes that have made me sit-up with attention.

Available on the buffet line are the usual cold dishes of a simple Salad, Tabouleh, Flatbreads, and Cucumber Yogurt Sauce. The salad was nothing out of the ordinary except for the accompanying spicy cilantro sauce that added a kick to the mild greens. The Tabouleh was decent but I would prefer more lemon juice that would make my mouth pucker the way I like this bulgur wheat and parsley salad. When I was visiting the last time, a young Persian, Siamak, and his brother were making and baking different Persian breads from scratch. I was presented a most interesting flatbread that had a scattering of black and white sesame seeds, along with some dried herbs and exotic Nigella black seeds (akin to poppy seeds but more fragrant) on top of its surface. The toasted seeds made the bread very irresistible with their nuttiness, coupled with the fragrance from the dried herbs. A good started indeed.

Usually, there is a wonderful hearty soup on the buffet line which is far from the usual buffet offering. On one visit, the opener for my meal was a most interesting soup – Ashe Tomato. Nila, the main cook, explained to me that it was a soup that is cooked by Turkish immigrants in Iran. It was a light and slightly spicy tomato broth that was made with bulgur wheat, couscous, cilantro, fresh chilis, and marble-size beef-and-onion meatballs, which were surprisingly light and added the necessary meatiness to the soup. It definitely piqued my curiosity, and I had to refrain from filling up on it after a couple bowls of this deliciousness.

With a few visits, I have fallen in love with Khoresht-e Fesenjoon, an exotic concoction of chicken in a pomegranate concentrate and ground walnut sauce. The first time I tasted it, I was transported to another world by the interesting and slightly sweet-and-sour flavors that had permeated the meat completely, judging by the amber-colored interior. According to the manager, Manoocher, it takes 3 hours of patient stirring to produce this ancient recipe, that at times he is up late making it. Such care in cooking this dish produces a thin layer of light green walnut oil that makes this dish prized by older Persians for its heart-curative qualities, according to Nila, along with the antioxidants in the pomegranate. I must admit that it is a rather rich dish with a thick sauce that clings to the moist and flavorful pieces of meat. But the interesting flavor profile makes one wanting more of this exotic dish. It used to be offered on the line only once a week, but due its popularity, it makes a daily appearance, which I am glad to see.

The Chicken Kebab is good here. Chunks of chicken breast have been marinated and quickly cooked in the tandoor. The meat is still moist with the edges barely singed by the high heat. Usually there is freshly baked naan bread served along with it, but in my last visit, I was offered some wholesome whole-wheat flatbread. The yogurt-cucumber sauce provided the perfect moist accompaniment to this tasty bite.

A dish often served on the buffet line is a tomato stew consisting of chunks of beef, wide slices of sautéed eggplant and tomato, onions and turmeric. The meat has been stewed long enough to have absorbed the flavorful liquid and be fork tender, along with the wide slices of vegetables that hold on to their integrity after a short stay (15 minutes) in the pot. The soft vegetables provide the necessary textures and flavors that act as the perfect foil while adding contrast to the bolder meat. All these elements make this dish very delectable and complex, with a certain homely simplicity at the same time. The fluffy basmati rice is the perfect backdrop to this wonderful saucy dish.

On another visit, I tasted a unique Persian dish for the first time – Gheymeh Beef Stew. It was an interesting thick stew of beef chunks, lentils, and potato. This dish is lightened by the addition of dried limes that add the citrus sour note to the dish that would otherwise be quite flat and heavy tasting. Savoring it for the first time was an eye-opener as I was trying to discern the interesting flavors that were quite foreign to me. A side of Fava Bean Rice perfumed by fresh dill and saffron (the real stuff) was the perfect accompaniment to the dish. This pair is not a daily offering on the buffet line, but it is worth catching when available.

Vegetarians are not forsaken here. Besides the salads, rice, and breads, there is usually a vegetable offering. A light potato, green pepper, and carrot stew on the last visit was tasty and quite fulfilling. The potatoes were cut into large portions, enough to give one the feeling that the tuber was not going to allow itself to be overshadowed by the other bolder meat dishes. Another vegetarian offering on a previous visit consisted of a potato stew seasoned with ginger, cumin, coriander seeds, and a little cinnamon. On this day I almost became vegetarian by this wonder of a dish, which made me nearly forget the day’s other offerings – few can make vegetables this exciting as the kitchen did with this dish.

If you happen to be in Laurel during the weekday during lunch time, it would be amiss not to stop by Mediterranean Kabob for the lunch buffet that offers exotic and unique Persian dishes that sing about a glorious history of a wonderful cuisine. The small crowd of Persian customers savoring the dishes and the sound of Farsi in the air are a good testament to the level of cooking here. Under the hands of Nila, the cook, these perfectly seasoned dishes are tempting for one to go back for repeats even when conventional wisdom says to go light on the midday meal. However, after a few fork and spoonfuls, you will not regret having over-eaten, and maybe start planning the next time you would pay visit to this modest yet wonderful eatery.

Volt

Restaurants

The act of eating, in my estimation, falls under three main categories beyond the physical need to nourish the body: reliving and satiating memories or conditioned gustatory habits (my ailing grand-uncle used to “get full” by watching my siblings and I devour his favorite dishes); understanding and setting reference points about peoples, cultures, or cuisines (travelling and/or discovering new ethnic and regional cuisines); and exploring new gourmet experiences much like finding the latest designer outfit or recreational drug (which food is for some, including me). So, when I received a text message from a friend saying that she needed to use a gift voucher for the highly acclaimed restaurant Volt and a reservation had been secured, I did not hesitate or vacillate in responding, much like an alley-junkie having stumbled across the next fix.

Located in Frederick, MD, we drove 50 miles outside of Washington DC through scenic rolling hills and farmland in order to get to Volt before our 5:45 reservation. Cruising through the historic downtown area, we were immediately gravitated to its quiet bucolic charm. We managed to find parking a few feet away from the restaurant, which was immediately recognizable by its bold glaring steel letters framed by a 19th century red-brick facade. The restaurant sits on the ground floor of the Houck Mansion, a prestigious-looking Victorian building constructed in the early 1890’s, and it commands a noble presence within its vicinity. Volt was opened by Bryan Voltaggio before he shot to fame as the losing finalist on the popular culinary show,Top Chef. Entering its doors, we were greeted by an army of young staffers dressed in casual suits whose formality was mocked by brown flat Converse sneakers as their footwear. The ambience exudes luxury with the cream pale color palette from the banquette to the table cloths. I requested a table with sufficient light for my photography, and we were escorted to a corner table close to the large arched window overlooking the street.

Screech!! You may be expecting me to be gushing by now about the dishes and this once-in-a-lifetime culinary experience. But I will hold my review of the restaurant until the end of my presenting the courses that we chose that night. Since the menu started at the minimum $80-per-head for four courses, we opted for this instead of the 7-course menu or the $150 Chef’s table. Here are the dishes in order:

Amuse Bouche (complementary): Beet Macaroon stuffed with Foie Gras Mousse, topped with Apple Sauce and dusted with Cara Cara Orange Zest.

First Course 1: Kimchee (Noodles), Daikon Radish, Chicken Thigh, Quail Egg, Basil (Oil).

First Course 2: Salsify, Quince, Country Ham, Hazelnut (Dust).

Second Course 1: Turbot, Butternut Squash, Brussels Sprout(s), Radish.

Second Course 2: Sweetbreads, Sunchoke, Black Kale, Bacon.

Third Course 1: Sturgeon, Toasted Barley, Broccoli (Puree), Lemon Pith.

Third Course 2: Lobster, Black Forbidden Rice, Coconut (Sauce), Madras Curry.

Pre-Dessert (complementary): Parsnip Cake, Cheesecake Ice-cream, Applesauce, Walnut crumble.

Dessert 1: Coconut (Ice-cream), Black Sesame (Cake), Pineapple, Banana (Sauce).

Dessert 2: Chocolate (Mousse), Marshmallow, Peanut (Ice-cream), Caramel.

Post-Dessert (complimentary): Macaroons, Lemon Merengue, Pomegranate Jelly, Chocolate Truffles.

VERDICT:

I have been sitting at my computer for some time struggling to form my thoughts about how to objectively assess the food and the dining experience at Volt with all the knowledge and acumen that I have in this regard. Ultimately, I have to resort to my gut feelings and the overall lingering impressions, without too much of a cerebral filter, in order to continue writing this review.

Firstly, I must admit that during the meal, I was rarely excited about the dishes and the way the ingredients were treated. It was already a bit off-putting that the menu was quite allusive as it only alluded to the essences of the ingredients, and not the manner they were cooked or presented as part of the whole picture – notice the parenthesis in the descriptions that showed the lack of clarity on the menu. I believe that as diners, we usually get sated by filling up on quantity and/or by the saturation of flavorings and gustatory (that word again) excitement – the former was only fulfilled during this meal by the reordering of the bread basket and the amount of sugar from the four servings of desserts, which my companion and I thought fared the best. But that is really just carbohydrate and sugar!!

Secondly, there were some serious and some rudimentary missteps in some of the dishes. The opener of the Beet Macaroon paired with the Foie Gras Mousse did not “amuse my mouth” except saturate my palate with a mineral quality found in both ingredients; the dusting of the Cara Cara Orange zest did nothing to the dish nor could one discern this specific hybrid. The Kimchee Noodles did not have a single hint of the fermented vegetable, even when surrounded by an extremely mild broth; the chicken thigh did not contribute any flavor factor to elevate the dish beyond a flatline. The two meager slivers of Country Ham barely left a footprint on my tongue nor did it speak of any exceptional quality. The Sweetbreads was seared on the outside but completely raw (not rare) inside, and my companion literally pushed her plate away after the first bite (I think this put her on the potty for a few days); I sent the dish back to be recooked and it came back barely cooked enough – no reputable kitchen would serve a raw organ meat in this manner as we were that night! The Sturgeon fillet was overcooked and it had the consistency of a moist pork chop – unforgivable for seafood, especially from this calibre of fine dining. The Madras Curry sauce in the Lobster course was a total misnomer as its flavor had no hint of South Asian spices. The Black Sesame Cake tasted of Chinese food from the crushing of the black seeds that released the oil which permeated the whole cake (toasted seeds are rarely crushed in Asian desserts for this reason) – my companion and I were nibbling at it as glutton for punishment as we tried to wrap our brain around this “culinary joke”.

Lastly, the service was efficient and professional. But puhlease, I have not seen so many anally-retentive young people in a long time. The attempt to provide high-end service only came across as characterless, unamiable, and after some time plastic. All this did was reinforce the lack of soul and connection my companion and I got from the dishes and the experience. I tried to joke with a couple of them but all I got back was silence or a are-you-serious chuckle – maybe they were not used to my remarks and dishes that were being sent back to the kitchen (I’m not easily intimidated by food or fine dining establishments, unlike some diners I noticed there). The staff need to lighten up!

Whew! I got that out my chest now. Normally, I would not do a write-up that would trash a food establishment. Perhaps my struggles with this review is partly the above and my sense of obligation to write honestly about my experience at one of the area’s finest restaurants. I could have been one of those diners and tourists sitting at the $150 Chef’s table, mesmerized by the high-tech hoopla, bells and whistles, and the hype that this restaurant has garnered. Not me.

Marrakesh P Street

Restaurants

Note: The restaurant has changed management and name. Read about it – Marrakech.

A couple of weeks back, my BFF Kevin and I stepped into a new Moroccan restaurant in the Adams Morgan area to review its performance. Simple verdict – disappointing. The dishes were poorly cooked with barely edible stringy meat, the orders were mixed up, and the food was swimming in a pool of oil. To make matters worse, Kevin got sick from the food for the next few days – poor bugger!

I was hoping that this visit was going to be en par with a recent visit to another Moroccan eatery in the Dupont Circle area. Some friends and I had originally planned to have brunch in another location on the same street on a freezing Sunday afternoon. After being told that the wait was around 40 minutes and in the state of famish that we were in, we hauled ourselves down the street and walked through the doors of Marrakesh P Street Restaurant. It is located on the former spot of a seedy gay bar that was renowned for its campy drag shows. However, with some dramatic cosmetic transformation (yes, pun intended), the location has taken on a new look and feel, far from its former life.

Walking into the foyer, you are immediately whisked away to North Africa with its terra-cotta colored and tiled walls, plush deep-red velvet cushions on a sitting area, and exotic brass ware everywhere including the perforated overhead light fixtures. The dining rooms are divided into the lower casual eating section and the upper “blue room” reserved for dinners. Small mosaic fountains and large urns are placed around the space evoking a sense of distant exoticism and beauty. Perusing the menu, the dishes are divided into simple and understandable sections: Hot Tapas, Cold Tapas, Couscous, Tagines, and Brochettes.

It is rare that you will come across a restaurant that is open for lunch on Sunday and offering a 3-course lunch special ($12.95) on the weekend. The first course is a choice of Harira soup or a salad – I chose the soup, suitable for the cold weather. This traditional soup is made with tomato, lentils, chickpeas, bulgur wheat (I suspect), saffron, cilantro and ginger. With the first spoonful, the broth tasted rich and complex from the spices and herbs, while the grains and beans added body and heartiness to this wonderful starter – just the perfect entrance to this exotic cuisine.

On another visit, I decided to try a medley of cold tapas as the starter – the Combo Salad. It arrived with spinach that had been cooked with garlic and preserved lemon; roasted eggplant cooked with fresh tomato, garlic and cilantro; and a carrot salad prepared with garlic, cilantro, and preserved lemon. This trio was very flavorful, and the dish points to a kitchen that takes great care in its dish preparation. There was a level of soulfulness in these simple vegetables that matched perfectly with the crusty yet fluffy Moroccan traditional bread that provided the willing backdrop and vehicle to the savory vegetable dips.

For the hot tapas, I decided to go the traditional route and order one of Morocco’s most recognizable dishes – Chicken Pastry or Bastilla. Baked Phylo dough has been stuffed with a mixture of chicken, egg, and almonds, topped with a dusting of powdered sugar and cinnamon. This concoction is a study of contrast between the crispy dough and the rather moist filling, the sweet and savory flavors, with the hint of cinnamon adding a certain exotic earthiness to this appetizer. I have eaten various versions of this dish over the years and although the stuffing was a bit dry (the traditional use of pigeon would make it more moist), it was definitely well-made and worth every bite that I enjoyed.

Moroccan cooking is renowned for its Tagine dishes that have been cooked in domed clay pots. With this in mind, I decided to order the Chicken Tagine that was part of the 3-course lunch special (the other choice was Vegetable Couscous). The breast was cooked in a sauce that was flavored with pickled lemons, olives, and a cornucopia of exotic spices that made the sauce very flavorful and delectable, enough for me to wipe up every drop with the spongy bread. The slices of pickled lemon rind and olives added the brininess and fruit-like notes to the already flavor-packed dish. I have had this dish before in other restaurants and this rendition was perhaps one of the best that I have eaten.

For the Couscous section, my dining companion ordered the Couscous Royal. Sitting on a bed of the perfectly steamed pasta grains were spicy Merguez lamb sausage, chicken, lamb, zucchini, squash, carrots, chickpeas and fava beans. The pieces of meat cooked in a tasty broth were fork-tender, along with the well-cooked large pieces of sweet vegetables that were quite soft but not mushy. A few forkfuls from this dish confirmed to me that the kitchen really cares about the cooking and is skilful in preparing these traditional Moroccan dishes. This is another must-order from the menu along with the Chicken Tagine.

The final course for the lunch special was a Fruit Cocktail. In most places, such dessert would be a banal mix of fruits that would leave the taster rather nonplussed. However, this restaurant’s version was a mixture of fresh cantaloupe, melon, pineapple, sweet strawberries, and plump blackberries. It is indeed refreshing to have a fresh fruit salad that has been slightly sweetened by a light syrup perfumed by a heady orange blossom water, especially in the midst of winter. The traditional dessert of Moroccan pastries were not available during the last visit, but I have enjoyed such dessert fare there in the past and the sweets were good. A cup of the customary sweet mint tea was also a perfect end to this wonderful meal.

The dishes that I tasted at Marrakesh P Street Restaurant were a far cry from those that I tried at the other eatery mentioned in the opening paragraph, which will remain nameless and unreviewed. However, here the dishes were flavor-packed, skillfully executed, and full of Moroccan tasty exoticness. With this Northern African soul food, this restaurant managed to stir my taste buds and whole being with its traditional offerings that Moroccan cuisine is known for, very much like a belly dancer with her exotic, smooth, and alluring gyrations. But unlike its former life as a drag show venue, this restaurant truly delivers the real McCoy, at least food wise. I will indeed be revisiting this place in the future for more of the real stuff found in its wonderful authentic offerings.

Tuscana West

Restaurants

Ever since my last summer’s trip to the Tuscan region of Italy, I have been on a gourmand’s mission to find veritable Italian cuisine similar to the dishes that I delightfully savored on “the trip worth a thousand bites” (a play on words from the expression “a painting worth a thousand words”). A couple of weeks back, I posted a write-up on I Ricchi (see review) that was a delightful culinary experience but at the same time quite damaging to my pocketbook. Some of my friends asked me how could they get the coupons that I used to visit these restaurants (easy, sign-up online), or whether I would write-up on an authentic Italian eatery that was more accessible and affordable.

I think the answer to the latter request lies in this review of Tuscana West. I had heard of this Italian restaurant for a number of years now, but it did not make it on my culinary radar due to its location in the financial district of downtown DC, which makes getting there and parking a logistic nightmare most of the time. However, a couple of coupons (yes, those again) popped up on my computer screen, and I decided to give it an opportunity. A number of federal holidays falling on a Monday the last couple of months made it possible for me to drive downtown, park for free (after circling the block a number of times), and pop into their doors on two occasions.

The restaurant is located across from a grassy sloped park and on the ground floor of a nondescript office building. Once stepping into the foyer, you sense the restaurant’s efforts to change the ambience of a utilitarian space into one of casual opulence consisting of a large wooden bar area, draping curtains to separate the dining areas, a white stucco pizza oven, large painted frescoes on the walls, comfortable banquettes, and mood lighting to settle the customer into his or her chair. The menu is quite extensive with the dishes listed in the usual separate courses, much like in the Continent. I decided to focus on a variety of meat and seafood choices, some recognizable and others new to me.

For the antipasto, I ordered Portabello Gratinate, a large portabello mushroom cap that has been stuffed with a heaping amount of fresh crabmeat mixed with breadcrumbs, and topped by a savory mushroom sauce. This is a creative take on the usual stuffed mushrooms that can be quite pedestrian in most places. Its initial impression on me was not too favorable as it looked like a brown hockey puck that landed on the white tablecloth. But once I cut into it and saw the flakes of sweet moist crabmeat, I knew I was in for a treat. And it sure was. Great start with this seafood appetizer, and especially for around $8.

On my second trip, I decided to order the starter from a different angle. While in Volterra, I paid a few visits to the cooperativo (regional supermarket) to get our ingredients for our meals, and I was impressed by the variety and freshness of the fruits and vegetables which Tuscany is renowned for. With this reminisce in mind, I ordered the Insalata di Finocchio, Mela, e Noci on the second visit. It is a salad made up of finely sliced fresh fennel bulb, cubed crisply apples, and whole walnuts. The fennel slices were slightly crunchy with a hint of anise (could have been sliced a bit thinner), along with the sweet cubes of crisp apple, and the crunchy walnuts pieces (a few too many) that exuded a slight bitter note. All the disparate elements were liasoned by a light and tangy salad cream – exciting, flavorful, and refreshing.

The day’s special of Risotto ai Quattro Formaggi was my second course on one of the visits. Fat grains of starchy rice have been slow cooked with broth and enrichened with a handful of creamy Fontina, pungent and tangy Gorgonzola, and both nutty Parmigiano and Grano Padano (the younger Parmigiano) cheeses. This was indeed refined comfort Italian food, and I have not tasted risotto this good in a long time as I did with this bowl. The rice was cooked just right, slightly al dente without its chalkiness, smooth and all’onda (“wavy” looseness) from releasing its starches as a result of proper stirring and sufficient stock, and finally enriched by the rich and flavorful cheeses. I literally had to force my hand to put the fork down halfway through the portion as I had to save room for the next course. Buonisimo.

Beef Stewed in Red Wine and Vidalia Onions on Cous-Cous, Carbonade di Osso all’Aostano, was my selection from the day’s specials on the first sitting. The tender and slightly sweet winey pieces of beef were paired with the grits-like pasta grains. Here we see the combination of Northern Italian influence in the wine-stewed beef and the Southern in the use of cous-cous due to its proximity to Northern Africa. The beef tips were fork-tender while the bed of pasta soaked up the meaty sauce, thus making quite a flavorful pair. The creativity in this dish points to the kitchen’s knowledgable hand in the daily specials, and they are worth paying attention to.

My BFF, Kevin, had his eye on another daily special, Pizza Rustica di Mare, or Seafood Rustic Pizza on the first trip. It is a hand-made pizza, slathered with red sweet pepper sauce, and topped with scallops and fish chunks. The dough had a nice yeasty flavor, enhanced by the slightly sweet sauce (not as sweet as tomato, which can be a good thing for a change), and dotted by moist and sea-sweet pieces of seafood. Most of us would find this pizza rather odd, beyond our perception of the nature of pizza. However, my trip to Italy opened my eyes of the possibilities of this dough concoction, and this restaurant’s version is completely up the alley of creative modern Italian cuisine. My friend ate it with some gusto to which I could not resist a couple of slices myself.

Tagliolini Sepia was high on my list when I perused the menu during one of my meals. The plate arrived with black hand-made pasta (colored by squid ink), coated with a fiery fresh tomato sauce with pieces of grilled young squid nestled on top. The pasta had a slight sea-breeze scent from the ink, along with a lip-singing kick from the well-made and light sauce, which only added flavor to the tender mild pieces of squid. This dish definitely pays tribute to the Southern Italian treatment of its seafood, and my taste buds thoroughly enjoyed it as a contrast to the milder and richer fore mentioned Northern-style dishes.

Walking into the dining room, one cannot help but pass by the dessert tray sitting on a server, working its charm like a scantily clad person winking from an Amsterdam display window. My waiter recommended that I order the Tiramisu or the Limoncello (lemon liquor) layer cake. However, I have a slight weakness for the Italian version of flan, Panna Cotta; it is basically cream cooked with gelatine. This restaurant’s version had a topping of orange marmalade and blueberry compote, which added their fruitiness to the white canvas. The side of Zabaglione custard-like sauce was made with enough booze, most likely sweet Marsala, to make me lick every drop of it. However, it overshadowed the cream timbale, which proved to be just fine but overstiffened by too much gelatine. I think my waiter had every good reason to make his recommendations and I should have listened to him, at least for this final course – Limoncello cake for me on the next visit!

Tuscana West offers true authentic cuisine with touches of the Northern and Southern Italian styles in the well-prepared dishes. The dishes that I enjoyed on my visits have convinced me that I must muster some courage to brave the traffic and parking issues to make it to this wonderful restaurant. More importantly, the prices are just right, especially during lunch when I managed to order four courses for around $50 (the price of blogging for you guys!). Even without coupons, I will be coming back with my friends to savor its tasty authentic dishes with some frequency. This place warrants more visits as it has now become a large red spot on my radar beeping away loud and clear.

Sushi Taro – Kaiseki Tasting Menu

Restaurants

Recently, I wrote a review on Maruko Japanese Restaurant, a popular sushi restaurant located in Arlington, VA, as I am fond of good and fresh seafood prepared in the Japanese fashion. While I receive many internet coupons for various sushi restaurants, I pretty much delete them right away since sushi is one food item that I do not take chances with or play some form of culinary Russian Roulette. However, I snatched up an offer that appeared a few weeks back for a Kaiseki Tasting Menu, and I managed to experience it for the first time at Sushi Taro, a reputable traditional Japanese restaurant located in the Dupont Circle area of DC.

Kaiseki is a traditional Japanese dinner that consists of numerous dishes that show off the cook’s refined culinary skills and the seasonality of the ingredients. It is an art form that balances the “taste, texture, appearance, and colors of food.” Beautiful dishes and bowls are chosen to present the small servings in order to complement and enhance the eating experience. Even leaves and flowers are added to imbue the sense of nature and its bounty.

Each serving is self-contained in its theme and sensory evocations. I will present each course very much in a Zen mode – simple, direct and unadulterated.

First Course – Aperitif: Sweet sake-like “Kinkan” wine with half of a sweet and citrus Kumquat as a chaser.

Second Course – Tsukidashi: Gelatinous “Goma” Tofu made from Sesame seeds paired with fermented Soy Beans and briny creamy Sea Urchin, swimming in a light Dashi broth.

Third Course – Appe: Tender and crispy Bamboo Shoot Tempura and Lotus Root Dumpling (Agedashi) in a light soy sauce infused with a slice of Lemon.

Fourth Course – Sashimi: Thin and mildly delicate slivers of Live Flounder (I assume the flounder was alive just before its filleting).

Fifth Course – Soup: Tender and crunchy “Wakatake” Bamboo shoots, Snapper Cake, and mineral-like fresh “Wakame” Seaweed in a light broth.

Sixth Course – Hassun: Battered Fish Cake, Grilled Fresh Anchovy, Fish Roe, Rice-stuffed Ginko Nuts, Smoked Salmon Ball, Crabmeat Jelly, braised Octopus Tentacle, Sweet Cake, Sea Snail, Tuna in Mayonnaise. Fresh and sweet treasures of the ocean.

Seventh Course – Imobou: Salty shards of “Boudara” Dry Cod wrapped in smooth “Yuba” Soybean Skin paired with a soft and light Yam Dumpling in a light sweet sauce.

Eighth Course – Yakimono: Tender well-marbled Australian “Wagyu” beef, moist and flaky “Gindara” Black Cod, with chewy and gelatinous Konnyaku Starch bites, simmered in Red Miso on Magnolia Leaf and burning coals.

Ninth Course – Sushi: Braised Octopus Tentacle, sweet tender raw Scallop, and soy-marinated raw Tuna.

Tenth Course – Dessert: Green Tea “Hoji-cha” flan-like Pudding with a sweet-burnt Caramel Sauce.

This write-up is not necessarily a review on the strengths or weakness of Sushi Taro Restaurant but more a recounting of a fantastic gourmand’s experience of a Japanese multi-course meal. If the refinement of this Kaiseki meal and the large presence of Japanese executives with their underlings in the restaurant are used as a barometer of the authenticity and skill level of the kitchen, I will be back in the future to sample its regular fare, beyond the $80-per-person menu (before the 50% coupon – thank Buddha for it) that I savored with true delight. Another Oishi exclamation here.