Durian – Wong Eats

Tropical Ice Cream Cafe

For a number of years, I have been hearing good things about a certain ice cream store that has built its reputation on its unique offerings that are not found in most establishments. However, I never made the trip on the busy beltway to it despite my curiosity for such tempting offerings. But recently, I opened an e-mail with an offering of coupons for said place which I bought three of them immediately. The reasons were twofold: to force me to make the trip to Tropical Ice Cream Cafe, and, the other, to satisfy my curiosity of what its unique ice creams would taste like. For this blog, I made a couple of trips to Silver Spring, MD, just off the beltway, and here are the offerings that I sampled. Advisory: No animals were harmed in the process, except this sole reviewer who had to endure savoring these cold sweet samples.

The pictures of these twin scoops will read from left to right.

Tamarind/Lychee: The tamarind version has its characteristic sourness of this Southeast Asian/Central American pulpy pod that I enjoyed in this mix. Its fruity sour qualities are tempered by the right amount of sugar along with the richness of the cream. Bits of the pod fruit are studded in the scoops giving off hints of clove-like qualities in each bite. The lychee version is a floral bite with its unique exotic but quite subtle qualities, with heady gardenia-like hints on the palate. Bits of this Far East Asian fruit in the ice cream reinforce the mild floral and exotic qualities that I particularly enjoyed savoring with each spoonful.

Rambutan/Durian: The flavor of the Southeast Asian Rambutan is very subtle but containing a rather high sugar content. The ice cream version is close to the Lychee version but lacking in the floral notes of the latter. However, knowing what the fresh Rambutan tastes like, I could detect a bare hint of the fresh fruit qualities. The Durian version was far from subtle. Here, the pungency of this fruit leaves its mark without any shadow of doubt. The assertive sulfurous flavor is much evident in the spoonful, an acquired taste that I grew up on in the tropics, without overwhelming the palate. I indeed relished every bite of this bold flavor, but make sure to taste a sample before venturing into palatal terra incognito.

Mamey Sapote/Jackfruit: The flavors from this Central American fruit were completely new and interesting to me. The only way I can describe its flavor is that it reminds me of a slightly fruity bubblegum, with its pink color adding to that impression. The slightly rough texture of the ice cream is an indication of the fibrous fruit. I found each spoonful intriguing, wondering what the fresh fruit must really taste like. The Jackfruit version was brimming with the flavors of this South American and Southeast Asian fruit. Just like the Durian, its flavors are quite heady but, in this case, not sulfurous at all. Like the Durian, its notes hints of something fermenting but it is more subtle with the Jackfruit.

Passion Fruit/Soursop: Another fruit from the both Caribbean and Southeast Asia is the Passion Fruit. This sorbet version packed a lot of punch with each spoonful filled with the citrusy fruity flavors tempered by its sugar content. Its unique fruit flavors are still fresh tasting in this frozen version and I could not get enough of it. Similarly, the Soursop comes these same tropical regions. The flavors are more subtle than the above scoop with a distinctive subtle fruity note. A rich custard-like quality is also evident which points to this fruit’s other name – Apple Custard. Subtle but still exotic.

Rum and Raisin/Mango: Back to the Caribbean with this spoonful. Rich ice cream is studded with large rum-soaked raisins tasting sweet yet boozy from the alcohol, further reinforced by the rum running through the cream, leaving a slight bitter foil to the sweet flavors. I must say this is one of the most alcohol-tasting R&R I have ever had, fit for any adult aficionado of this flavor. The Mango version was a bit too subtle for me at first. After trying a few bites, I could detect its unique flavors, much like a creamy Mango puree rather than the fresh fruit bits. This reminded me of a yogurt-based Mango Lassi I have tasted in some Indian eateries.

Mango-Lemon/Ginger: This joint offers no-sugar-added ice creams and this version had a combination of mango and lemon flavors. The taste was slightly fruity, creamy, with a mild taste reminding me of sherbet. I must say that the lower sugar content was barely noticeable from a regular version, and this would be high on my list if I were on a low sugar diet. The ginger ice cream vowed me with the first spoonful. The pungent ginger bite permeates every molecule of this frozen treat with notes of mature ginger and molasses-like brown sugar, with pieces of ginger studded throughout it tasting like crystallized bits – I could not get enough of this biting treat.

Guinness/Pistachio: When I saw this version made from the dark stout, I knew I had to taste this Jamaican favorite. Since I was familiar with this alcoholic drink, I could detect the subtle dark notes along with a distinctive hopsy flavor in each mouthful. This reminds of sneaking a few sips from my grandmother’s favorite brew (despite my father’s disapproval) but in a frozen version. The Pistachio ice cream was green in color, well-flavored with its nutty oil. Bits of the toasted nut punctuate the cream with its strong heady flavor and aroma. Green jelly bits were mixed in the ice cream that made this frozen custard more interesting than just the singular nut flavor itself.

French Almond/Harambe!: Another nut flavored ice cream was French Almond. This was not as subtle as the Pistachio as it was packed with the assertive flavor of almond oil which I enjoyed by itself – it overpowered the other flavors that I was tasting. The creamy body is mixed with toasted almond slivers that further accentuated the nut flavor. On one visit, the special was Harambe! consisting of Orange, Pineapple, Banana, Coconut and Rum flavors. No individual flavor was too prominent as all the ingredients performed a well-balanced act with each individual component exerting an equal presence. There was a slight Piña Colada and Orange flavor that made this special offering very enjoyable and worth tasting.

Behind the large display cases of the frozen treats, Tropical Ice Cream Cafe also offers other sweet treats like Rum Cake, Carrot Cake, and Lemon Cake. Amidst all the sugariness, there is a large sign displaying a savory offering – Ghana Fish Pie. This struck my curiosity and I had to try it. Very short flaky pie dough encase a rather moist stuffing made from salmon, flavored with sweet onions, spiked with bits of fresh chili, and colored and flavored with the ever-present West African ingredient – palm oil. I did enjoy these crumbly bites that brought back memories of a similar version made with sardines which I grew up on. I can see why the owner, who hails from Ghana, is proud to sell these warm turnovers, and look out for these while you are there.

Tropical Ice Cream Cafe is the United Nations of ice cream for it offers frozen treats that are skilfully made with the bold flavors of fruits from all regions of the world, from the Lychee of Far East Asia, to the Durian, Rambutan, and Soursop of Southeast Asia, to the Mamey Sapote, Passion Fruit, and Tamarind of Central America and the Caribbean, and to the Jackfruit of South America. In addition to the exotic flavors, I also enjoyed the standard fares with the nutty French Almond, Rum and Raisin, and Pistachio versions, amidst the low-sugar or no-diary offerings. The seasonal specials too were worth tasting, like the Rambutan and Harambe! This is indeed a most unique ice cream store that makes a gourmand’s eyes like mine light up and go into a frenzy with indecision. I’m sure after a few samplings you will be returning back to explore the other missed flavors.

Malaysian Drinks, Fruits, and Desserts

Cooking

Living in an environment where mornings start with 2 hours of soft diffused light and the skin is constantly moisturized from the high humidity and warm temperature, there are some downsides to these pleasant living conditions of tropical Malaysia. Furthermore, the local penchant for rich and spicy dishes does tend to overwork the body system as I experienced this after a few days of indulging in the wonderful irresistible dishes that attack the visitor from all angles. To overcome this “heatiness” that most face as the result of the above, many Malaysians resort to drinks and fruits to cool the system down. With the abundance of fruits everywhere and the amazing variety grown in this tropical climate, one looks forward to the different offerings depending on the growing season. Fruits also act as the perfect end to a meal, as well as some sweet concoction. Here are the common Malaysian drinks, fruits, and desserts:
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1) Leong Soi – This hideous witches-brew-looking drink was my first request when I went to visit my auntie during my trip. My grandmother used to boil this drink consisting of various dried leaves and stems that produce a slightly bitter dark herbal drink that I would sip often when it was too hot or when my system was overtaxed by the rich food. Grandma was well-versed in Chinese herbal medicine since she had to rely on such cures during times when visiting doctors were financially unfeasible during the meager war years. I am glad my auntie boiled this large pot since I must have consumed most of this in just a mere two days! I did indeed feel much better after.

2) Yeen Mai Soi/Barley Drink – Another favorite of mine is this drink made by boiling whole barley pearls until most of the starch has leached into the liquid, leaving a slightly thick drink. Sugar is added to sweeten it and lime juice to lighten it. Served with ice, it is the perfect order when visiting a coffeeshop as in this case, the reputable Lai Fong Coffeeshop near Petaling Street, Kuala Lumpur. It may appear quite heavy due to the starch but amazingly it does a wonderful job cooling the system especially when served with lots of ice.

3) Leong Fun/Grass Jelly Drink – This dark drink is another coffeeshop favorite that consists of a jelly made from Grass Jelly and mixed with a slightly sweetened iced water. The jelly is made by boiling slightly oxidized stems and leaves of a plant, member of the mint family, along with a coagulant, and then allowed to cool into a jelly form. It is slightly bitter and herbal which is balanced by the sugary water. It can be found in most coffeeshops and it is another must order when dealing with the tropical heat.

4) Sheen Kam Soi/Lime Drink – This rather potent drink is made with lots of lime juice as well as Vitamin C. It is made with the local Kalamansi lime which is small yet packs a punch in its juices but not too sour as Key limes, the one used to make Key lime pies. It has a slight bitterness from its tough skin that balances the tart flavors. To enhance the flavors, a dried salted plum is added as the piece de resistance and the ultimate sour and salty treat in this drink.

5) Teh Tarik/Pulled Tea – This drink hails from the South Indian community that used to be served at Roti Canai stalls (see blog) along with its food offering. It is basically strong local tea (my favorite) that has been mixed with sweet condensed milk and “pulled” until it is frothy and slightly cool enough to be sipped – the tea version of cappuccino. It is an incredible sight to watch someone pouring the steamy tea into another container while “pulling” the tea by lifting the containers away from each other, without spilling a single drop. Just like its coffee counterpart, the top foam makes this drink stand out from its flat version. This is usually drunk at anytime, including late in the night at the night markets.

6) Duku Langsat – the flesh is sweet and fleshy with a bitter tiny seed in the middle, making it a challenge to eat the fruit without biting it. But the sweet flesh makes it worthwhile and all attempts are usually made to avoid the center. The outer skin is quite distinct by its leathery quality that peels easily to reveal the semi-translucent flesh.
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7) Chiku – This fruit is also known as Sapote in the Spanish-speaking world. The sweet flesh is very soft but a bit rough in texture. Like most fruits in this part of the world, it is seasonal and thus available only at a certain time of the year. I was glad that it was available when I made my visit back recently.

8) Chempedak – this fruit is related to the Jackfruit and Breadfruit, but it grows only in the Southeast Asian region. The flesh is a rich and sweet soft flesh, much like the texture of a ripe mango, but much sweeter and strong heady notes to accompany it. The seeds are usually saved and boiled, tasting much like a richer water chestnut. As a child, I would eat this fruit that has been battered and deep-fried, which made the seeds edible when well-cooked. It is definitely missed due to its unavailability outside Southeast Asia.
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9) Starfruit – most homes in this tropical country would grow this fruit tree since they do well without much care. When in season, the tree bears many fruits that need to be wrapped in paper to prevent the birds from ingesting them, as was in the case at my auntie’s home. the skin is a a thin skin that protects a juicy insides, much like a soft apple. However, it is slightly tart and sweet at the same time, providing a light crunch in each bite. Strangely, Malaysians love to eat it by dipping it into a pool of salt.

10) Papaya – another commonly grown fruit tree in most homes is the papaya. Like the starfruit, it is commonly vulnerable to birds that sense when the fruits are ripe and sweet, thus the common practice of wrapping them in paper as they ripen. I really enjoy this soft and sweet fruit that exude a unique fructose flavor that is unmatchable. It is one of my favorite breakfast fruits that is paired with a squeeze of lime.

11) Mata Kuching – A long time favorite of mine. It is a slightly leathery flesh that is very sweet, coating a hard black seed. It bears the name of “cat’s eye” due to its similar appearance. This fruit is very sweet and makes it completely irresistible, making heavy consumption of it possible. However, the common warning is that consuming too much can over-tax the system.

12) Dragon Fruit – this fruit was not common more than 10 years ago. This fruit is indigenous to Vietnam and it made its way to this part of the world. It bears such name due to the leaves that emanate from the body of the fruit, looking like dragon scales. But inside bears a richly colored fruit that is soft and sweet. It has become a well sought-after fruit by the locals due to its wonderful flavor and exotic looks.

13) Durian – I saved the King of Southeast Asian Fruits for last among the fruits. How can I explain its flavor? It is unique and extremely strong, yet illusive at the same time. Some have described it as rotting garbage which does not make it exactly attractive to the novice. But once you can get pass its strong odors, you will taste a flavor that is rich, custard-like, very heady, complex, slightly fermented, sweet, and mineral-like. It is this mix of flavors that make it totally irresistible to many, much like an addict looking for a fix. I have watched many locals sitting at stalls indulging in these fruits with glazed eyes – and I know why.

14) Tau Foo Fah – One of my pleasures of going back to my childhood home is going to the morning market like I used to do so with my grandmother and later with my mother. It was always a delight to see fresh ingredients among the array of spices and dry goods. Among them are prepared foods that are readily available for consumption, including this Tofu dish which I came across a vendor selling this item. Although it is a sweet dish, it is usually eaten as a snack or at any time of the day. It is fresh soft silken tofu that is paired up with palm sugar spiked with fresh ginger. This is indeed a healthy snack and has a cooling effect on the body even when consumed hot, as it is customarily done so.

15) Kueh Lapis – While visiting my parents in Melbourne, Australia, we stumbled across these Nyonya cakes in a local Asian grocery store that caters to the local Malaysian community. They are made of layers of rice flour dough that has been enriched with coconut milk, each layer steamed separately thus its name meaning “layer cake”. Each layer is contrasted with a different colored layer to create such effect. Eating this delight reminded me of my grandmother who was a master Nyonya cake maker, and I was glad to be the recipient of her wonderful gift. They are usually eaten for afternoon tea rather than dessert after a meal.

16) Ais Batu Campur (ABC) – This dessert/snack is a definite favorite among nearly all Malaysians. It is basically shaved ice that is sitting on top of a melange of cooked red beans, cooked fresh corn kernels, different forms of jelly, and nuts. The shaved ice is usually flavored with a sugar syrup, rose petal syrup and evaporated milk. As a child, this was a frequent order during my school recess time as a way to cool down from the heat and the non air-conditioned classrooms. I had this rendition with my parents and their friends in a Malaysian restaurant in Melbourne, even in the midst of their winter season. I guess, for some, habits are hard to die as we were digging into it with gusto even after a big meal, much like little kids at the school canteen, albeit in cold weather.

This ends the series of Malaysian food, from Noodles and Rice Dishes; Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner 1; and Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner 2. I hope the series has shown you the essence of this Southeas Asian cuisine, the variety of dishes, and that it has inspired the reader to look out for the dishes that I have described, even though some dishes seem a bit off-putting by the descriptions, like the Durian fruit or the Buah Keluak. But one has to take the leap and take the first bite. That may just change your mind and make you an aficionado of the rather bizarre. If not, there are many more dishes you will fall in love with. Selamat makan (Happy eating).