wongeats

Just Jerk

OK, you have read my quibble about local DC folks dismissing the county that I live in, Prince George’s, as a culinary wasteland. But such disrespect has only spurred me to increase my efforts in finding decent eateries to disprove that, such as my blogs on Asian Wings Cafe (see blog) and Tiffin (see blog). The DMV area is a magnet for attracting different immigrant groups to the area, and PG is no exception. With this migration, groups of newcomers have formed pockets in the various suburbs, and along with this, there has been a burgeoning of various ethnic cuisine eateries, especially those that cater to folks of African descent from the Caribbean and Africa. The county may not boast as many high-end restaurants as in the wealthier counties or downtown DC, but this fact does not dampen the discerning palates of the local folks, and this is evident in some of the eateries that I have encountered recently.

Conversing with a gentleman who hails from Guyana in a house party, I was querying him about some of his favorite local eats. He mentioned of a Jamaican jerk shack in PG that many from the Caribbean have raved about, which I became quite excited about. I have had my fair share of Caribbean eats around my area, especially from Mom-and-Pop eateries and a local Caribbean food chain. However, many of my visits have been marred by uninspired cooking that has been watered down to cater to the American palate, or the food has been lacking in authentic seasoning or even cooked improperly (and unfortunately) in the oven. With this new recommendation in mind, I was looking forward to checking this new eatery out.

Just Jerk is tucked away in the corner of the parking lot of a sad-looking strip mall, opposite from an equally nearly lifeless Red Roof Inn in Lanham. My first trip to it was very frustrating as I had a hard time locating it and maneuvering in the area whose roads made turnarounds close to impossible. Walking into the deep-green and bright yellow wooden shack which immediately livens up its drap surroundings, you will notice a large order counter across from a long eating counter, along with a donation box requesting contributions of crayons and “composition” books (haven’t seen that word since my English school days) for Jamaican school children. The air is filled with sounds of Jamaican radio, either the pulsating Reggae beats or the local crime report (“suspect had dark complection” – that wouldn’t fly here at all). A large poster hung next to the order counter spelled out the simple menu with its short list of offerings. This joint exudes Jamaica without even trying.

As an appetizer, Jamaican patties make the perfect small bite, and this place offers their versions made with beef, chicken, or spinach. The Beef Patty had a crust that flaked easily under the fork, exposing the beef stuffing that had a strong flavor very much like oxtail. It was perfectly seasoned, and the “beefiness” was not off-putting but very savory and tempting to any beef lover. For the vegetarians, the Spinach Patty had an equally flaky pastry even though it was a bit milder than the meat version. The spinach stuffing was perfectly seasoned without the bitterness of the spinach leaf, tasting much like the Caribbean leaf, Callaloo. There was a certain unctiousness and smoothness in this bite that I did not expect from a vegetarian offering. Both the patties tasted fresh and well-made, having a subtle quality that put them above those I have tasted in other establishments.

Touting itself as a Jerk House, the house’s special of Jerk Chicken was the first main course that I ordered. I was looking forward with great anticipation to this dish, and each bite was a revelation in savouring proper Jerk cooking after having tasted less-satisfactory versions elsewhere. This place really gets this food preparation right. The meat had the flavorings and seasonings well-penetrated into every morsel while remaining moist and succulent. The skin was crispy and smoky from the charcoal grilling, with the fat completely rendered, which is the only way Jerk should be cooked, unlike the baked versions. But it is the jerk spice flavorings on top that make this dish truly successful and spectacular, tasting of the fiery Scotch Bonnet peppers, the dark sweet notes of allspice, the woodsy and minty Caribbean thyme, and the depth of flavor brought by vegetable aromatics. On another visit, an order of the Jerk Kingfish had similar treatment but I found the fish a bit too dry for my taste, which is common in seafood cooking outside of North America. The accompanying sides were equally well-cooked and well-seasoned, attempting to steal the show from the main star: the rice and peas filled with flavor with al dente and not mushy pigeon peas (obviously house cooked and not tinned), the fried sweet plantains cooked at the right stage of sweet ripeness which should be called dessert, and the stewed cabbage made fragrant from fresh thyme and still slightly crunchy from the light cooking. The portions were big and I could make two meals out of each order. As I write this blog those fantastic jerk flavors are still haunting my taste buds.

Jamaican cuisine has a long history of vegetarian/vegan cuisine as many eating establishments try to cater to the Rastafarian community who follow such a diet. It was interesting to see on the menu a Jerk Portabello mushroom sandwich named after the Jamaican Black Nationalist, Marcus Mosiah Garvey, and I had to try it. The huge caps of mushroom were properly grilled with a slathering of the jerk which tended to overwhelm the subtle mushroom caps with its strong seasoning. However, I enjoyed the “meaty” texture sandwiched by the pieces of fluffy Coco bread that had a slightly sweet and rich quality. The Cassava/Yucca fries that accompanied the sandwich blew me away with the crispy exterior and soft mash-potato texture inside – obviously, the roots have been boiled and pureed, before being extruded into the deep fryer. This brought back memories of the Churros I ate for my first blog, La Churreria de Madrid (see blog). What a wonderful Caribbean version of fries!

No decent Caribbean eatery would have Curry Chicken amiss from its menu, and Just Jerk is no exception. Its version was quite tasty and decent, but a bit dry for me. It could have done with a bit more sauce and more heat in the curry spices. I have to remind myself often that Caribbean Curry is not quite as fragrant and spicy as South Indian curry dishes that I grew up tasting from Indian restaurants in Southeast Asia. It always amazes me to see this Indian-influenced dish cooked in Caribbean establishments, pointing to the history of British colonization and the importing of East Indians to the region. As for another dish, Brown Stew, a friend’s verdict on this Jamaican staple was thumbs-up with the chicken well-seasoned and falling off the bone -it is definitely high on the next order list.

There is only one choice for dessert in this small eatery – Sweet Potato Cake. I could not resist ordering a slice of this during one of my visits since the offering of a single dessert by any establishment only spells “Must be good.” And it sure was! The cake was moist and light, with subtle but discernible notes of molasses, cinnamon, cloves, and dry ginger. The white frosting coating was light, not too sweet, and slightly tangy. I could have this for snack any day, which would transport me to taking High Tea on a Caribbean plantation.

Just Jerk truly delivers on the expectations based on its name. Finally, I have found a Jerk place that is veritable with its delectable offerings, pointing to how this dish is truly savored on the Caribbean island. Yes, the orders can be a bit slow, the jerk may run out before closing (they cook just enough in small batches), and the offerings are limited. But what they do and offer, they get it just right.

Hee Been Asian Bistro

Restaurants

Note: The Crystal City/Alexandria branch has closed.

Warning: The following blog contains NO photos due to the lack of planning, and it was an impromptu visit to this establishment. Furthermore, photos from all-you-can-eat buffets contain too much for the eye to digest and maybe hazardous to one’s health.

After enduring the ordeal of getting my blood drawn for a blood test at my doctor’s (yes, poor me, even though it was just a small prick), I decided to “reward” myself with a stop at an Asian bistro buffet not too far from his office. Customarily, I would refrain from visiting all-you-can-eat’s because there is always the temptation of over-indulging and over-eating – at my age, this is not a wise move especially given the fact that I’m planning to take my clothes off in a couple of weeks in public; at the beach, I must add. But with a phone app offer that was running out soon, I decided to visit this Korean-Japanese eatery.

Hee Been Asian Bistro sits above the Harris Teeter grocery store in a rather dead modern building complex (most likely a casualty of the depressed economy), located just off the busy Route 1 in the business-filled area of Crystal City, VA. Finding it was quite easy once you notice Harris Teeter which is temporarily closed due to a sewage back-up in the supermarket (oh crap!). Parking in the basement is free, which makes visits during the day time accessible and convenient (Crystal City has the same parking challenges as DC).

I paid it two visits on one day for both lunch and dinner (the punishment of gluttony I had to endure for this task!). Walking into the establishment, you immediately notice the far wall covered end to end with several buffet sections displaying the various offerings. It is rather overwhelming by such a large display, but hunger and growing anticipation quickly dissipate this sense of confusion. The only remedy in such situation is to attack without hesitation, or “attaca” as composers would print in their music.

On one end, the buffet section contains various forms of salads, from the simple Potato Salad to the more bistro-like Crab Salad on Endive or the Apple and Arugula Salad. I found the salads to be very fresh and tasty without being overdressed. The next station was the Sushi section that contained amazingly at least 22 types during lunch time. I was rather surprised by the freshness of the seafood and by the variety in this section, from Clam Sushi, Tuna Sushi, Octopus Sushi, and Salmon Sushi, to the different rolls that contained the fresh seafood made with velvety ripe avocado. Fortunately, the Sushi Rolls have not be too “perverted” by overzealous sushi chefs with their bizarre creations as these were rather simple and unadulterated, the way I prefer my sushi rolls. Again, freshness and good ingredients made these bites sing in my mouth.

Next to the raw fish section, there were the cooked Japanese section with Tempura Vegetables and Teriyaki Chicken. I did not savor from this section as I have had my fair share of them in my lifetime. Next to it were some Korean offerings of Squid with Vegetable Pancakes and Squash Pancakes. I enjoyed the small round circular discs as they were tastier than what I have had in other places. The Seafood Salad next to it was a tasty delight and I was nearly tempted into a second helping. The Korean Noodles with Vegetable, Jap Chae, were very tasty, which I’m sure my BFF would love to stop by for some.

The next section consisted of tradition Chinese and Korean fare. You know, the usual Chinese “stuff” like Fried Rice, Fried Noodles, Pot Stickers, etc, grub that I would not touch at all in most places. But I did go for the hot Korean dishes: Spicy Squid stir-fry (how did they keep the squid tender?), Korean Pickles and seasoned cold cooked vegetables (I can’t get enough of them, no matter where, and the offerings were great), Cold Soba Noodles (rarely found but a great rendition here), and the typical array of Korean marinated meats. The cooks waiting by the grill will take your plate of raw meats, cook them to perfection, and bring them to your table sizzling on an iron caste plate along with slices of sweet onions. The large pieces of lettuce along with the different spicy bean sauces made the rather sweet beef short ribs (Bulgogi), or the spicy pork or chicken, perfect bundles of grilled meat heaven. A couple of Thai dishes (Chicken Green Curry and Basil Chicken) were surprisingly good and filled with the Southeast Asian spicy and herbal notes.

If one hasn’t sated him/herself at this point, there is a rather generous dessert section. It consists of cut fresh fruit, pieces of cake, and gello. Although the pieces of fruit were sweet and fresh, what I surprisingly enjoyed were the bite-size pieces of cake that were not too sweet and packed flavor, like the Strawberry Cream Cake and the Mocha Cake. And as a traditional Korean ending, there is the Cinnamon and Ginger Tea that was laced with the mildly burning cinnamon flavor and the zinging ginger essence.

To celebrate a friend’s good news of a new job (finally, thank God/Buddha/Universe), we, along with her partner and friend, paid it a visit for dinner. The buffet had the same dishes, in addition to the offerings of Snow Crab Legs (the celebrant was feasting on this like mad), Steamed Shrimp, Sashimi (looked very fresh and tempting), and Sweet Spareribs (which her partner seemed to enjoy) – such luxurious food items must be a result of the higher dinner price. My friends thoroughly enjoyed and were very satisfied by the offerings and the high quality of the food. I chose to order from the menu, Bibim Bap, which consisted of a large plate filled with grilled beef bulgogi, cold cooked squash, cold cooked carrots, fluffy egg pancake, cold cooked broad beansprouts, cooked watercress, and crispy lettuce ribbons, all tied together by a sweet spicy sauce – tasty and satisfying indeed. However, I noticed that due to the lack of customer volume during the night, the hot dishes on the buffet line were starting to look a bit dry, sad and drab from sitting too long on the hot plate.

Hee Been Asian Bistro offers an incredibly humongous buffet with dishes made from good fresh ingredients and with expert hands at their two locations. Currently, they are running a special of $9.99 for lunch and $17.99 for dinner for the month of June (thus this hastily written blog). I see myself stopping by this establishment before the month is up, trying my best to refrain from overeating before my Full Monty (not quite, with a bathing suite on, of course) in a few week’s time. Wish me luck!

Casa Oaxaca

Restaurants

OK, I hear you loud and clear, and I get it – at least, from some of you. After posting Elevation Burger in the last blog (see blog) and attempting to balance my postings with those on establishments offering a scant number of vegetarian and vegan dishes, a couple of Facebook friends quickly shot back comments requesting me to write on more eateries that focused on a meatless and vegan lifestyle. Furthermore, a fellow Buddhist on my mass email list also responded by asking herself to be removed from my notices as she stated that her diet had “changed”, which I was not sure exactly what she was alluding to, perhaps a reaction to the photos of meat dishes that could have been “offending” her sensibilities. I guess for some, Meat Means Murder!

Being a practising Buddhist, I frequently try to aspire towards the ideal of following a vegetarian diet, albeit a mere recommendation and not a permanent personal practice as of yet (the Buddhist thinking is that strict rules/commandments will only create some form of issues around such restrictions or make one even develop a rebellious attitude). So, when an online offer popped up on my computer for a Mexican eatery that offered both separate meat and vegan menus, I bought both coupons and decided to explore their meatless selections first. In addition to the lack of a vegetarian/vegan restaurant on my site, I decided to kill two birds with one stone (oops, that doesn’t sound very Buddhist) by penning my first blog on a Latin American establishment.

Casa Oaxaca touts itself as a Modern Mexican Restaurant, located in the busy DC neighborhood of Adams Morgan where the streets are literally jam-packed with different eateries that offer a wide variety to entice the roaming palate. This area went through what I called the “Adams Morgan effect” in which ethnic eateries managed to keep the level of authenticity in their kitchen only for a short moment before losing its identity due to the hiring of non-native cheap labor. Like everything in life subject to the process of natural selection (or customer selection, in this case), the fittest restaurants survived and they continue to offer high-quality cooking, as in La Churreria de Madrid (see blog) around the corner. Perusing Casa Oaxaca’s website, I was looking forward to savoring and writing about the vegan dishes offered by this Mexican locale.

The restaurant is divided into two floors, and on my visit, I had to enter through the bottom floor into the rather cavernous space. Knowing that such dark space would not produce flattering photos for the blog, I requested permission to eat in the upper part which was still closed. The manager, Joana, was gracious enough to open up the upper floor for my needs. While waiting for the manager to invite me up, I ordered a typical Mexican drink that I am rather fond of, Horchata. This version is made with almonds, rice, and rice milk (not the usual with cow’s milk), which make it a vegan thirst quencher. It was rather sweet for me on the first few sips, but the diluting ice cubes brought it to the correct level after a few minutes. The pieces of almonds and a hit of cinnamon added the right notes to this rice milk concoction. A satisfying slurp, indeed.

For the opener, I decided on the Timbal de Nopal. It consists of layers of fresh tomato, grilled cactus, and vegan cheese, slathered with some Pico de Gallo. The round of cactus was a bit too crunchy despite the grilling and a bit too smoky from the charring – maybe a short stay in boiling water would make it more fork tender. The fresh salsa packed some heat punch (perhaps from chile serrano), coupled by the chile ancho oil pool around the plate. Even for this chile aficionado, it was borderline overwhelming. Unfortunately, the vegan cheese was lost in the dish due to the piquancy and the overall acidity. This definitely was an appetite opener but I was hoping for a bit more subtlety.

My first main course was a Mexican classic, Chiles Rellenos. A roasted Poblano pepper is stuffed with pieces of zucchini, carrots, grilled corn, spinach, soy meat, and pumpkin seeds. This concoction was muy delicioso as the various elements were well-balanced by the sweet vegetables and the mild vegan protein, which I would have preferred it a bit more seared (my meat-loving instincts crying out here). The slightly sweet and spicy green pepper is perfected complemented by a delectable orange tomato sauce that is moderately spiked by chile guajillo. The accompanying refried black beans was perfectly executed with enough flavor even without the customary lard as its base. The topping of vegan cheese on both beans and roasted chile even had the distinctive parmesan-like aroma that one can get from the non-vegan version, which lent some further richness and complexity to both items. The side of Mexican rice was fluffy and equally flavorful. I truly enjoyed this dish especially that perfect tomato sauce that made this dish sing, of which I lapped every drop on the plate.

For the second main, I ordered a trio of bites called Quesadillas Tricolor. This really colorful dish is made with pastel-hued Non Genetically Modified (Non GMO) soft tacos stuffed with squash blossoms, mushroom cooked in a guajillo salsa, and corn cooked with the exotic corn fungus, huitlacoche. I enjoyed the subtlety of the mild squash blossoms, the meatiness of the sautéed mushrooms, and the interesting note brought by the slightly sour and musty corn fungus on the yellow corn kernels. But what tied the elements together was the very tasty vegan almond cheese whose savoriness blew my taste buds away especially for not being dairy – I could not get enough of this stringy “creamy” cheese that made these some mean and fulfilling quesadillas. The ring of chile ancho oil provided the necessary heat without overwhelming or complicating the flavors.
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To end the meal, I wanted to order a dessert made with papaya, an exotic fruit that I grew up on in the tropics. Unfortunately, the kitchen was out of it and I elected for the Pastel Tres Leches. A dairy-free cupcake has been soaked in coconut milk served on a sauce of coconut milk and berry sauce, topped by non toasted coconut flakes. This dessert was decent but it lacked the unctuousness of the regular version made with milk, condensed milk, and rich whip cream – I guess the original flavors of some desserts cannot be adequately substituted by vegan ingredients. However, my grandmother did make some heavenly vegan desserts with this tropical nut and its creamy milk, so it is possible to come up with a good alternative. Perhaps the papaya dessert or the mango sorbet will be my selection on the next visit.

Casa Oaxaca stands out among the plethora of Mexican-style and Tex-Mex eateries that tend to dilute the integrity of this rich cuisine. What this establishment brings to the table is a level of sophisticated cooking while recognizing the authentic tradition that shape the unique flavors and ingredients, exemplified by the charred cactus paddle, the pairing of grilled poblano pepper and the perfectly made tomato-guajillo sauce, and the satisfying corn kernels and corn fungus quesadilla stuffing along with that heavenly tasting almond cheese. If the vegan offerings at this establishment look and taste this good, I’m looking forward to my next trip to try out the non-vegan dishes. I get a feeling that I will not be disappointed and will leave with a big smile and satisfecho.

Elevation Burger

Restaurants

As I approach the mid-century mark in less fingers than I can count on one hand (Ay, Dios Mio!), the questions that have been haunting me the last few years are ringing louder in my head by each day: Should I eat less meat? Should I touch factory farmed meat and poultry or buy more organic? Should I go vegetarian or perhaps vegan? How about dairy products and egg? And fried foods? Sugar? Wow, can I eat anything at all besides raw organic vegetables? Are my gastronomic adventures going to be haunted by the ghost of guilt? How long can I continue blogging before making this a vegetarian site?

These questions are picking up momentum and soon turning into a vortex in my conscience as we approach summer, a time when I cannot resist one of my seasonal vices (oops, the ugly head of guilt again) – the hamburger. There is something irresistible about a grilled beef patty sandwiched by two pieces of fluffy buns filled with the various not-so-subtle accoutrements that satisfy the indulgent craving for sweet, salty, sour, and savory (hmmm, all begin with S’s like Sins). Slices of crisp lettuce and juicy ripe tomatoes are the saving grace and penance that delude us to think that the beef patty ain’t that thick nor so bad after all. Like a Catholic trying to overcome Sunday guilt, I visit my Amish butcher to purchase antibiotic and hormone-free ground beef to make the patties for my cookouts. But what do you do when the craving strikes while out in public? McDonald’s, Burger King, Wendy’s, Sonic, Five Guys – when Hell freezes over!!

Then appears Elevation Burger (imagine the clouds part at this point ☼ and the heavenly choirs sing ♫). I discovered this burger-serving joint from one of my online coupon sites. When I read the company philosophy and perused the menu to check out their offerings, I knew that this place was worth visiting and writing about, and I paid it a couple of visits. A burger chain, you ask? Yes, a different type of burger chain. Here are my confessions:

Burgers: The beef patties are made from 100% organic, grass-fed and free-range meat. They are smaller than your usual patty, perhaps around 1/4 pound, and they tasted not overly “beefy” due to the lower fat content, a purer taste than the usual burger. The slice of cheese had a slightly granular texture for being aged cheddar cut from the block, and not the insipid processed version. The burgers come in double-patties, single patty with cheese, one patty hamburger, and one patty plus one veggie (“Half The Guilt Burger” – penance?). The toppings are the usual that one would find anywhere, but specials are offered on any given day, like sautéed mushrooms and bacon (no lesser guilt here) on one visit. I found the pickles to be brightly and less metallic, perhaps due to local sourcing and not being factory produced. The Hot Pepper Relish packed some heat, and although I love piquancy, it did overwhelm the subtleties in the burger (a subtle burger, you ask?). The burgers may not be as humongous and “meaty” as other places but they make up in quality and in taste. Less meat – check. Organic grass-fed free range meat – check.

Vegetarian offerings: There are two vegetarian burgers that are offered here. Veggie Burger #1 is a patty that is made with pureed vegetables and cheese. For me it was OK, since the patty did not have any specific taste from the processing that made it a bit nondescript – maybe it is more palatable for those who are not the usual vegetarians. Veggie Burger #2 comes with a savory vegan patty. You can see and taste the individual bits of corn, carrots, peas, and rice. This was more to my liking and it tasted more substantial and flavorful. Yummy! Grilled Cheese Sandwich is offered here with that 6-month aged Cheddar for those looking for an alternative to meat or vegetable. Side and Main Salads are also offered but they looked rather pedestrian to me – at least, these are good substitutes for fries. Vegetarian and Vegan offerings – check, check.

French Fries: The shoes string fries are cut from whole potatoes judging from the skin left on. However, they are more limp than the fries found in other burger places. Reason why? They are cooked in 100% olive oil, and since it has a lower smoking point, they cannot be made very crisp due to the lower cooking temperature. However, I don’t mind not-so-crisp fries in lieu of whole unprocessed potato bits cooked in healthier oil. On one visit, I thought they were slightly oversalted, but it was perfectly fine the next visit. Fried foods, if only in healthy oil – check.

Desserts: We tried the Small Cookies which consisted of 3 chocolate chip, pecan, and oatmeal treats made with organic butter and milk. They were pretty small (photo – “objects are smaller than they appear in macro shots”) but they were sinfully good with a rich buttery taste. Like all items on the menu, there is a calorie count with these – nearly 300 calories for all three. These cookies also come in a larger version. If the amount of calories is a bit intimidating, there are also Mandarin Oranges as a sweet alternative. Sugar – occasional check; sweet fruit – check.

Drinks: The milk shakes are made with organic milk, organic ice-cream, and “real berries and strawberries” (as listed on the menu). Bits of fruit are speckled on the cup which confirms the use of “real” fruit, which distinguishes it from the use of fruit syrups found in other places. However, the over 700 caloric count is pretty daunting and a reminder that this should not be a frequent treat. The eatery also offers bottled drinks that are low in sugar, no High Fructose Corn Syrup, and are made with healthy green tea and real lemonade. Milk shake – infrequent check. Healthy bottled drinks – check.

Ambience: The philosophy of this new direction is not confined to just the food and drinks only. The napkins are made from 100% recycled paper, the light bulbs are highly efficient, the floor are made from sustainable bamboo, the tabletops are compressed sorghum, and the urinal is waterless (too much information here?). The used olive oil is also recycled to make biofuel. All these elements add to the feel-good energy when you step into this place. Even the cook staff step out from behind the counter to bring your order to the table (using names and not numbers) and to check on the customer. Low polluting sustainable caring environment – check.

Elevation Burger is offering something quite unique and revolutionary in the fast-food world. But it is about time that we are challenged beyond our old habits and energies in order to be elevated with a new consciousness and direction, much like our President today announcing his support for equal marriage rights. Putting philosophy and ethics aside, its offerings are nearly as good, or even better (mos def ethically), as the usual versions that we are accustomed and conditioned to. Currently, they are available in only 10 states including the MVA area. But judging by the crowd on my last visit, I’m sure this chain will take off in other states soon, and rightfully so. With many branches in the area, my future visits to Elevation Burger might bring me closer to Burger Heaven/Nirvana.

K Town Bistro

Restaurants

During my youthful college days as a Spanish major, I was seriously contemplating running off to Cuba or Nicaragua to spend time perfecting my Spanish and realizing some kind of Socialist mission that filled my sense of idealism. Knowing that my parents would balk and send an intervention team (aka my siblings), I toned this thought down and ended up in Spain. In my mid-teens and as a boarder in a British high school, my classmates and I would go on field trips to London to visit the British Museum and the Tate Gallery, and invariably I would end up giving mini tours to my mates explaining the elusive messages hidden within the Modern Masters, albeit off the mark most of the time – again, my sense of reaching to the masses and breaking down the barriers between high art and the common man is evident here. As an adult, I bring this same sensibility in my approach and search for French cuisine, which I find can be quite inaccessible both gastronomically and financially.

Ever since my discovery of a quaint and irresistible French bistro, Yves’ Bistro (see blog), in the Alexandria, Va area, I have been keeping my eyes, and most surely my appetite, ready and wide open in finding another establishment that is worth visiting and writing about, accessible to the average person on many levels. Recently, another online offer popped up which urged me to stop in at a new restaurant in the suburb of Kensington, MD.

K Town Bistro is located along the local commuter train tracks, nestled among a bunch of antique shops that appear to have aged nearly as much as the merchandise displayed in the storefront windows. It is rather easy to bypass it without noticing its presence due to its understated facade and the lack of foot traffic in this quiet part of historic Kensington. Such quietude only adds to the charm of the area, thus setting up a proper mind frame for a more relaxed and refined meal, as if one were to be transported to a small quaint town on the Continent where time and activity have slowed down by quite a few notches. A bubbling brook instead of the railroad tracks would have framed the mood and ambience for this gastronomic experience as purely idyllic.

The restaurant has been opened for just over a year and on my first visit, it was rather busy on a Thursday evening, which was a good sign for what was going to come. According to the website, the owner had worked for around 20 years at the famed Watergate Hotel, and the chefs had done their stints at high-end restaurants in the area before leaving for further training in France. With this information in mind and looking at the filled tables, a sense of anticipation started to creep in me, along with a fairly ravenous appetite and a stomach that was speaking its noisy familiar language.

To start the meal off, I chose the Lobster Bisque, a classic soup which is a good indicator of the kitchen’s skill level. The soup here is made with sherry and cream, and it arrived in a bowl that was dainty and elegant enough to showcase its luxuriousness. The broth was packed with the rich crustacean stock, not overly rich by the cream, a slight boozy note from the sherry, and it had some depth from the use of aromatics, the slightly bitter tamale (head matter), and some proper cooking. It arrived piping hot, as how I like my soups, with some garlic croutons that provided the flavor and textural contrast. I could not get enough of this satisfactory slurp, and pieces of french bread were used to wipe up every drop in the bowl – it was bowl licking good! On the second visit, a companion’s order of the day’s special, Lentil Soup, was equally delectable. The soup was rich and creamy, even without the use of diary, as a result of the use of aromatics that added rich flavor and body to these simple legumes. Instead of a chunky version, it came in a pureed form which further added to the rich silkiness. With these couple of bowls, we already notice the kitchen’s knowledge and skill in their set of first offerings.

A couple of salads were the next course. On one visit, I ordered the House Salad. It was quite peppery from a combination of field greens and a hefty amount of arugula leaves, balanced by perfectly ripened rich bits of avocado, sweet pungent red onions, slightly tart creamy chevre cheese, sweet and tart tomatoes, all disparate elements perfectly dressed by a slightly sweet and light coating of a proper vinaigrette. Simple but sumptuous. A Beet Salad was the order on another visit. Cubes of sweet yellow beets are paired with equally sweet but more mineral-tasting red beets, topped with slightly sweet fried parsnip shavings coupling up with candied pecans to provide the textural and flavor contrast to the soft beet cubes. The tangy vinaigrette and nuggets of chevre cheese added some level of acidity to the dish thus avoiding any cloying sweet effect. This was truly a vegetable delight worth calling a respectable vegetarian entrée.

On my first visit, an offering of Cod and Crab Cake was my main course. The piece of cod was amazingly fresh with no hint of ammonia, which cod tends to accumulate quickly. It was cooked perfectly judging by the moist large flakes of flesh and the slightly golden exterior with the hint of buttery richness. Perching on top of the fillet is a small crab cake that was decent with large lump meat barely held together by a binder. The seafood was accompanied by a wonderful Bernaise sauce perfumed by tarragon that added the slight anise flavor thus lightening the butter base sauce – despite its richness, I was lapping up every drop of it. The sides of mashed potato and greens were quite good but perfunctory in comparison to the staring ingredients.

The restaurant offers a Prix-Fixe Lunch Menu which consists of 2 courses for $16. On one visit, my companion ordered Salmon Cakes. The fish rounds were made with fresh salmon flakes and studded with red and green pepper bits. As in French cuisine, equal emphasis is placed on the sauce, and the Red Pepper Coulis was the perfect slightly sweet partner to the mild salty cakes. The side of Spinach Fondue was decent, but the Roasted Potato wedges were quite heavenly with the golden crispy exterior and the fluffy inside, making this starch bites very irresistible. This was a fulfilling and well-balanced lunch course.

For my lunch order, I decided to go out on a whim and order something not favored by many – Calf Liver. The pieces of organ meat were still tender from the proper cooking and not too bitter for being young of age. Nothing can remove the strong flavors of liver, but the shallot red wine sauce helped to make the liver more palatable and even quite tasty for this reviewer. The side of vegetables tasted fresh and well-balanced with pieces of sweet carrots, crispy haricot vert (French green beans), and sweet parsnips. The mash potato was decent but I prefer mine with lots of butter and cream, which this version could have done with more. However, this was indeed tasty and quite refined for a liver dish.

A French meal is not complete without savoring the dessert offering. For dinner, I forced my stuffed and sated stomach to make room for a couple of spoonfuls of the classic Creme Brulée. The custard was rich, thick, packed with real vanilla flavor (judging by the seeds), and the burnt sugar topping was perfectly executed. The dessert was doing a number on me at this stage but I had to pull in the reins and hold the horses as the custard came in a decent portion – the following day’s tasting of the leftovers was equally satisfying and I devoured it in a couple of minutes. For my second visit, the owner was kind enough to offer us a complementary trio of desserts – K Town Bistro Trio. It consists of the fore mentioned burnt custard, “banana split”, and dark chocolate mousse. Banana slices have been caramelized and they sit on a pool of rich and irresistible creme anglaise and berry sauce. The mousse was very rich with a slight bitter-sour aftertaste from the use of good dark chocolate. Verdict on this trio – C’est tres magnifique! Despite being stuffed from the savory dishes, we were diving into these sweet offerings like teenagers looking for a sugar high, and we were marvelling with each spoonful. When you visit, make sure to leave some room for this must-order.

K Town Bistro is a gem of French cuisine due to the skilful kitchen that offers wonderful classic dishes at a moderate price, which fulfils my criteria for good accessible French food. The charm of its location and the attentive wait staff add to the comfortable and satisfying dining experience. I see myself becoming a regular at this inviting restaurant, returning back for their delectable courses. I suspect you will do the same once you have paid it your first visit.

Bob’s Noodle 66

Restaurants

As far as ethnic cuisines go, visiting a Chinese restaurant is far from the top of my list. Why? Having grown up in Southeast Asia, I have been spoiled by great eats around me ranging from my maternal grandmother’s delectable rendition of Cantonese cuisine (at least 8 main dishes for dinner each night) to fine dining at top Chinese restaurants in Kuala Lumpur where the offerings were so sumptuous but way beyond the skill set of the home cook. A suggestion of eating Chinese food here usually conjures up in me a visceral aversion and a few brief flashes of nondescript dishes further marred by non-distincitive flavors that tend to look and taste like a complete brown-hued blur. Simply put, I have never been happy by these offerings and I try to avoid them at all cost.

Well, since I have started food blogging, the sense of equal opportunity has been overriding this dread for the cuisine (is there a Food EEOC Police?), and it has thrown down the gauntlet in my search for something worth writing about. While conversing with a buddy on Facebook (who has time to pick up the phone and chat, right?), he suggested Bob’s Noodle 66 near the Rockville Town Center that he has visited a number of times. Located in a vast parking lot among other non-restaurant establishments, its offerings cater to the Taiwanese palate that is influenced by all the directions being an island off the coast of mainland China. Having watched a few bizarre foods episodes on cable, I had heard of some of these “unique” dishes and one was sitting on top on my curiosity list – Stinky Tofu. I knew I was going to get on a gastronomic ride, and I was ready for it.

We started with a round of Bubble Tea. These are green teas that have been mixed with various fruit juices, made with or without milk. They arrived with huge straws in order to suck up the pea-size tapioca balls at the bottom looking like tadpole eggs about to come to life. Mine was made with the exotic Lychee fruit that packed that unique flavor that is quite indescribable except for the word refreshing. An aftertaste of tea bitterness lingers in the mouth once the sweetness has dissipated from the tongue, which is indicative of the strong tea essence. I have to admit that I enjoyed this odd but rather refreshing drink, including the chewy bits at the bottom of my glass.

My friend insisted that we tried the Taiwanese Hamburger to start the meal off. I was kind of hesitant at first, not wanting to go for something that sounded like an Americanized dish. When it arrived, I realized that its name is a total misnomer, and I bit into it with some curiosity. The slice of braised pork was very fragrant, moist and savory, punctuated by an interesting mix of sour pickled mustard greens (much like sauerkraut) and a nutty mix of crushed peanuts and sugar, highlighted by some fresh cilantro, and all packaged by some fluffy and light steamed Chinese buns. Wow! This small bite packed lots of flavor and gustatory interest, and we could have eaten more of it. But we had to make room for the rest of the ride.

For the next appetizer, we ordered the Fragrant Bean Curd Skin Roll. It is made with a stuffing of minced fish meat, onion, water chestnuts, wrapped in bean curd skin, deep-fried, and slathered by a slightly sweet sauce. This dish brought back the memory of my grandmother’s version but the restaurant’s offering was milder than my grandmother’s heavily spiced one. However, I did enjoy the smooth meaty fish cake stuffing, the crunchy water chestnut bits, and the sauce on top that made this an interesting sweet-and-sour combination without going overboard like most Chinese take-outs. Another good eat.

While we were waiting for the other dishes, anticipation was building up for “The Dish”. The Stinky Tofu seemed to be sitting at everyone’s table which somehow reassured me that it was going to be quite tasty and OK after all. No-one seemed to be doubled-over their chairs or running to the bathroom in panic. I thought to myself that there was probably more hype over its infamous reputation.

The next appetizer was a plate of Oyster Pancake. It is a pancake made with sweet potato powder, eggs, and oysters, sitting on a bed of Chinese spinach and topped by a sauce. The pancake was soft, very light and fluffy with bits of equally soft baby oysters, and flavored by the savory sauce. This dish did conjure up the memory of a similar dish that I used to enjoy at the seafront restaurants in my father’s hometown in Malaysia. This dish was milder than the Southeast Asian version but interestingly they go by the same Hokkien name, thus pointing to its Fujianese origin. I quite enjoyed it but it was not exactly a study of contrast of flavors and textures – everything was just soft and fluffy, which a friend found disconcerting (most Americans have this textural issue). Not bad for me, though.

Drumroll – Stinky Tofu arrives. Nothing from its appearance made it stand out as it looked just like any regular fried tofu dish. Although it is listed as “Crispy Smelled Bean Curd”, the waft that it exuded announced its arrival loud and clear. Still feeling that it was rather innocuous and not so foul, I was excited about the dish. First bite. OMG, WTH, WTF, SMH, LOL, IDK, IWC (I wanna cry), LMAO, Call a friend, Call your Momma, Call your pastor, Call the Almighty! I am lost for words! The best way to describe it is an Asian vegetarian version of chitlins (chitterlings, for those unschooled in the parlance), which I have had my share of (only 2 spoonsful) living in the Mid-South. Why would someone want to eat this? It is tofu that has been fermented in a blue-green bacteria bath for a few weeks. Well, if some folks like chitlins, I guess there are others that enjoy a similar version, albeit made from soybeans. Thank goodness for the spicy cabbage pickles that sat on top that provided the necessary relief (much-needed) from this mind-blowing bite. Once I got past a couple of pieces, I went back for more (are you crazy?), trying to wrap my brain around the crispy and spongy bits that were sending me on a rollercoaster ride. Oh wow – Need I say more!

To even out the rough going ride from the previous dish and bring us down from the mind-blowing tizzy, a couple of main dishes arrived, and thank God/Buddha/Universe. One of the mains was Shredded Pork with Bamboo Tips. Pieces of young tender bamboo tips have been sautéed with thin slivers of pork and spiked with some fresh chilis. The light sauce was very savory and fragrant, which made the dish a hit among all of us. The other dish was Sautéed Baby Short Rib with Black Pepper. Thin slivers of short rib are coated by a black pepper sauce (peppery for sure) that added the body and piquancy to the thick savory sauce coating the meat. Despite a few rather sinewy pieces, this was very delectable and finger-licking good for me.

Still reeling from the Stinky Tofu incident whose undeniable impression was still lingering in our taste buds and minds, we did not hesitate for a split second to order a dessert dish to cleanse our palate. Shaved Ice can be ordered with different toppings, and for ours, we chose grass jelly, Lychee fruit, red beans, and taro root. Above the toppings, sits a mound of shaved ice that is flavored with evaporated milk and sugar syrup. Again, this brought back childhood memories of enjoying this favorite cooling bite for lunch in my school canteen or at local coffee shops in Southeast Asia. My eating companions and I attacked this shaved ice mountain with full gusto, enjoying the various toppings that provided the different textural and flavor elements. Besides cleansing our mouths from all previous dishes, most importantly “the one”, these sweet offering held its weight as a refreshing and very pleasing dessert. Great ending and safe landing from the ride.

Bob’s Noodle 66 is quite a trip on a few levels. Along with the mostly delectable offerings in this eatery (I can’t wait to taste their large offerings of noodles), it appears that “the dish” that was not so appetizing for me was a great hit among the cognoscenti of the strange and exotic, thus my objective appreciation for this kitchen’s authenticity. In addition to this, the place provides pure Taiwan here – loud, crammed, pushy and frenetic wait staff (the check came with the dessert), and large crowds. If you can overlook these shortcomings and deal with the frenziness, here is the place to taste some authentic Taiwanese offerings. And I dare you to order “The Dish”. Go ahead and make your day.

Ruan Thai

Restaurants

Ruan Thai 019.jpg Ruan Thai was really not on my radar that day. Initially, I was going to review a Japanese ramen-noodle house a couple of doors away. I decided to meet up with my college-mate who lives around the corner for lunch on Easter Monday when we teachers are granted this rare weekday respite (slave labor here). Upon entering the noodle house, it appeared empty and I asked the young host if I could sit near the window for some good photos. He was very amenable and I plunked myself at my table of choice. While I was testing the camera’s settings with a test shot of the tableware, I heard a knock on the table. There was Mr. Chef staring me down and asking why was I taking a picture. I explained my purpose of visiting his eatery with my equipment, but he denied me permission to use my baby Nikon – two run-ins now with Mr. Chef’s over photos in the course of two days (see last blog – Ristorante Piccolo). I packed my stuff up and quickly bolted out of there – I refuse to write a blog without a single visual representation. No photo, no food, no blog!

I walked out feeling incredulous that a restaurant would not want some free publicity. Looking around and waiting for my ambling friend, I noticed Ruan Thai, a place mentioned by another friend about his foray into this Southeast Asian eatery as a Thai virgin (foodwise, that is). When my buddy arrived, I told him of the incident and we made our entrance into our chosen place. Even though I have already reviewed 3 Thai eateries, the demise of my favorite Thai restaurant around the corner has spurred me to find a decent and veritable replacement. And I am glad that fate has pointed me to Ruan Thai, and I paid it a couple of visits to write this review.

To start the meal off, I decided to order a couple of traditional appetizers. Kanum Jeeb are steamed dumplings with a ground chicken and crabmeat stuffing. The filling was rather bland and the wrapping a bit understeamed. But the thick caramelized soy sauce brought these small bites to life with its sweet and salty flavors – I find that most Thai appetizers are underseasoned in order to allow the accompanying sauces to play a vital role in the dish. The next opener was Peek Kai Yud Sai which are deep-fried chicken wings that are stuffed with a filling of chicken, crabmeat, Chinese black mushroom, and spring onions. The filling here had more flavor and the tempura-like batter provided the contrasting crunch to the moist stuffing. The sweet and spicy sauce added another interesting note to one of my favorite Thai appetizers, which are not often found in many eateries these days. It did bring up memories of the version served by my favorite eatery before its closing.

On another visit, some friends and I decided to try out their soups. Gang Jued Woon Sen is a clear chicken broth filled with minced pork or chicken, slippery beanthread noodles, crunchy wood fungus, and fragrant spring onions. I had a taste from my friend’s bowl and I really enjoyed a couple of spoonfuls. What elevates this soup is the use of the dried salted vegetable that adds a salty and slightly crunchy element to this simple soup. For my order, I had a classic – Tom Kha. It is a rich coconut milk soup spiked with chili paste, lemongrass, galangal root, kaffir lime leaf, cooked with shrimp and straw mushrooms, and lifted by a sour hit of fresh lime juice. This is a true study of contrast with the rich coconut against the sour citrus, the strong flavored spices and aromatics against the mild shrimp and mushrooms. Love the soup offerings here.

One of the strong suits in a Thai restaurant is the curry that it serves, and I decided to try out the Green Curry. My dish came with slivers of pork, crunchy bamboo shoots, not-to-soft asian eggplant, fragrant basil leaves, crunchy sweet peppers, all in a spicy, slightly sweet and coconut-rich green curry that exuded a complex flavor profile. The dish would have been perfect if the pork had not been overcooked, thus its slight toughness – Asian restaurants tend to do this with this meat, perhaps a common practice on the other side of the globe. However, I enjoyed its rich tastiness with the fluffy jasmine rice which made the perfect foil.

My eating companion’s entrée was Pla Pad Ped, which is fried catfish bites in a spicy red chilli sauce along with sweet peppers, basil leaves, and julienned rhizome. The fish pieces were slightly crispy, the sauce real ped (fiery), while the basil leaves provided the fragrant relief from the heat, and the julienned rhizome an interesting je-ne-sais-quoi note to the sauce, akin to mild ginger. Even though my friend was comparing it to the version from our defunct favorite joint, he seemed pretty pleased with this rendition, and the searing heat was totally up his alley, which is a far cry from his earlier virgin days when he was intolerant of such spiciness.

On my second visit, I ordered Gai Yang Som Tum as my main course. It is a grilled young chicken that has been marinated in coconut milk and fragrant spices like coriander root (stronger than the leaves themselves) and pungent black pepper. This is a Northeast Thailand dish that is not commonly served in the restaurants, and I’m glad that this eatery had offers it as one of its specials. The chicken was moist and fragrant from the marinade, covered by the skin made crispy from the grilling. Accompanying the chicken were the customary sides of steamed sticky rice that came in traditional rice basket (keep it in the container or not it will dry out quickly), and a Green Papaya Salad. The salad was a hit with its slighty crunchiness, the sweet and sour lime juice dressing, the briny dried shrimps, and the nutty crushed peanuts – a perfectly balanced salad that complemented and rounded-off the chicken dish. A great offering, indeed.

Another friend’s order one night was Ped Tod Kob, a half duck that has been marinated in aromatics and fried crispy. It was fragrant from the use of the complex 5-spice powder, flesh still quite moist, and the skin properly rendered from its fat and made crispy from the frying. The sweet 5-spice infused sauce added the necessary moisture and flavor to the duck meat. Even a mate who finds duck quite unappealing said that the skin was nearly devoid of the fat and he found it quite palatable.

Ruan Thai offers many classic dishes that are commonly found in most restaurants. What sets it apart from the others are the not-so-common offerings like the stuffed chicken wings and the Isaan grilled marinated chicken. Whether the dish is easily recognizable or a new discovery for the eater, the kitchen does a good job providing authentic flavors and it delivers in its tasty offerings. So far, it is nearly tops in my search for a replacement for my favorite Thai restaurant. I see myself making future visits to sample more of this kitchen’s wonderful cooking.

Ristorante Piccolo

Restaurants

After spending nearly a week on the West Coast (see blog on LA/Pasadena) and battling an excruciating sinus infection on the way back on the plane the night before, I mustered enough energy on a beautiful spring day to trek down to Georgetown in order to use an online coupon for an Italian restaurant before it would expire a few days later. Having such an affinity for Italian cuisine, I could not help myself but purchase another coupon to sample the different eateries that could offer dishes as authentic as those I savored in the Tuscan region last summer, much like searching for a definitive interpretation and recording of a piece of music.

Visiting Georgetown has some serious challenges, mainly finding and paying for parking. Ideally, street parking is the best since they are much more reasonable (free on Sundays) than the flat-rate garages that jack their rates up knowing that the public will have some serious challenges finding a space. Since Georgetown is not metro accessible, one has no choice but to drive and park there, wishing that the Parking Gods are working to his favor. And they were when I paid my visit. I had to make one circle around the area before a pedestrian waved his keys to me before getting in his stretch limo and pulling out. Even better, the restaurant was just the next street over.

Ristorante Piccolo is the sister restaurant of Tuscana West (see blog), and it occupies a quaint converted row house along with many other restaurants on that row. Immediately, you notice the upstairs balcony with a few tables jammed in that rather narrow space. Upon entering, I was told that by the young hostess that there were no tables available, except for those in a dark cavernous back room. I requested a table close to the window so I could take some decent shots. An older man, in chef’s garb, told me that the upstairs was only for reservations. Being Easter Sunday, I did not protest and made my way to the bar as the holding area. After 30 minutes, the young hostess told me that a table on the balcony was available – Yay! While I was waiting for the table to be cleared, the same older gentleman started to interrogate me on why would I want to take pictures in his restaurant stating that customers were already complaining about my photo-taking – I was puzzled as I had only taken a shot of an inner dining room with no-one in it. After explaining that I wrote a food blog, he relented and showed me to my table.

After waiting for quite some time, I placed my order, which was taken by Mr. Chef himself. I decided to start with a plate of Italian cold cuts and cheese. When it arrived, slices of Prosciutto ham, Sopressata, and Salami decked the plate along with a few unpitted olives (which I prefer than pitted), a couple of slivers of pickled peppers, and a couple of slices of Pecorino cheese. The Prosciutto was a bit too thick, dry, and past its prime judging by the slight brown coloration on the meat, whereas the rest of the meatcuts were fine but nothing extraordinary. The Pecorino was a bit too dry and perhaps has been sitting around a bit too long. Nothing beats fresh pieces of sliced dried ham and sheep cheese that retain a fair amount of moistness along with its flavor. A request for another piece of tasty sourdough bread never materialized, nor did I see much of my waiter. An OK Opening Act but I was not feeling too optimistic, and I was still reeling after “the interrogation.”

For the next course, I decided to try out the restaurant’s signature dish – Porcini Agnolotti. These are Northern Italian style raviolis that have been stuffed with chopped Porcini mushrooms that exude a rich woodsiness while having a meaty texture in each bite. The covering pasta was a light semi-translucent sheet that was more akin to wanton skins than fresh pasta. The sage butter sauce provided the slight resin-like mintiness and the light creaminess in the sauce. A hint of pecorino cheese added the further richness along with some nuttiness to these light heavenly pillows. I must admit that four of these agnolottis for $18 was short on value for money but they were worth every bite. Better Second Act.

Seafood Pasta in Parchment Paper arrived as my main course, which was served by Mr. Chef himself. Strands of al dente Spaghettini were covered by a tomato sauce that was made aromatic by fresh basil leaves, spiked with dried chili peppers, and enriched by seafood stock. My dish had pieces of juicy and plump seafood – scallops, shrimp, mussels and clams. This Sicilian classic is usually baked in a parchment paper until the pasta has absorbed the sauce and the seafood cooked. I must admit that I thoroughly enjoyed this restaurant’s rendition with its tasty sauce and fresh seafood. However, the parchment paper lacked any burnt marks thus making this critic wonder if the dish ever made it to the oven. Good Third Act, no doubt.

Mr. Chef came up and took my plate away and asked me for my dessert order. Since the restaurant offers the ever-present Tiramisu in half orders also, I decided to try a small portion of it. He came back later apologizing that it had sold out, and he was really being super nice with me – hmmmm. Using my newly found trusty Yelp application on the smart phone, I decided to order the Mango Mousse cake that many reviewers had raved about. And rightfully so. It was a light mousse that was still slightly wobbly (not too much gelatine), and it packed that rich yet unmistakable exotic mango flavor sitting on a layer of sponge cake. Not being much of a sweet-tooth person, I was uncharacteristically diving into this with full gusto and savoring every forkful and morsel. I feel that most desserts do not warrant my attention unless the calories are worth eating, and at this point I was not counting a single one. Great Finale – Bravo.

Despite a faulty start and slow service, I enjoyed the dishes that I had savored at Ristorante Piccolo that day. Just like any relationship, if you can overlook an overbearing personality and slow response to one’s needs, things can warm up and get better with time or in this case, with subsequent courses. If you are patient enough, the experience may result in hitting the jackpot, like the Mango Mousse that won me over at this Italian Tratorria. If I happen to be strolling in Georgetown and battling hunger pangs, I will make another stopover to savor some of their tasty and well-made dishes, making sure I have room for that heavenly dessert.

Tiffin

Restaurants

Langley Park is a real funky place in an interesting way. Where else in the DMV (DC, MD, VA – not the dreaded lines to pay your traffic tickets) can you find a slew of different cuisines within a stone throw of this Maryland suburb – Vietnamese, Pakistani, Chinese, Caribbean, Latin American, African, and countless more. Since it is located just down the road from my university halls, I used to haul myself down the road for these tasty bites and also head to the different markets that cater to the ethnic population in that area. Without amiss, there is a slew of Indian eateries and markets dotting that same strip which I have paid my many visits, especially to one of my favorites.

Tiffin is located just off the amazingly busy University Boulevard that never ceases to slow down even on the weekday. It is sandwiched by other Indian stores that are hawking off either cheap saris or the latest Bollywood DVD. Not too long ago, Udupi, an Indian vegetarian restaurant, merged with this meat-serving eatery. But Tiffin still serves the same vegetarian buffet with the adddition of a few meat selections at the end of the line. What better day than a cool dreary one for me to step in and taste some Indian food.

My favorite starters are the soups that greet you first. Without doubt, Samber is what I look forward to to ingratiate my tongue with. It is a complex concoction of lentils, zucchini, pumpkin, red radish, red chili, long squash, “vegetable drumstick”, curry leaves, bay leaves, mustard seeds, and tamarind pulp that brings the sour element to this light yet flavor-packed vegetable broth. A Yellow Dahl Soup maybe less complicated than the above but it is not short in flavor and spiciness from both dried red and fresh green chilies, especially the whole cumin seeds that explode in the mouth with their pungent fragrance.

An array of small bites made some decent appetizers on that day. Alu Bonda is basically Fried Potato Balls and Medhu Vada are, as the waiter put it, Lentil Donuts. They are lightly spiced with either some cumin or curry leaves, but they are rather tame in comparison to the other highly spiced offerings. What elevate them beyond the level of starch are the side sauces of one consisting of cilantro and the other sweat and sour made with tamarind. Masala Dosai is a crispy fermented rice pancake stuffed with a potato curry onion mix that is contrasted and complemented by a cooling, slightly sweet and sour, and rich nutty Coconut Chutney that immediately transports you to South Asia with this tasty bite.

For the vegetarian mains, there is a wide variety and here we see the kitchen’s cooking strength. This day’s offering were Mixed Vegetables that consisted of cauliflower, corn, spinach, daikon; an Aloo dish made from broccoli, mushroom, potato, carrots, and spiced with cumin, and curry leaves; the omnipresent Chana Masala which are chickpeas cooked in a tomato sauce and various spices; and an exotic Tendli Masala which had the interesting small cucumber-like vegetable cooked with onion and tomato spiced with cumin, mustard seeds and bay leaves. These offerings were very satisfying due to the skilful manner and the variety in the kitchen’s handling in the spice department. Such wonderful vegetarian dishes would only change the mind of the skeptic or naysayer.

Since the merging of both restaurants, Tiffin offers, along with the above dishes, meat dishes to appease the carnivores and their primordial desires (just kidding). The buffet offerings were Butter Chicken, Goat Curry, Chicken Curry, and Tandoori Chicken. All the dishes were perfectly spiced and cooked properly – the Butter Chicken was moist and a bit rich from the butter sauce, and the Tandoori Chicken was quite smoky from its high searing in the charcoal tandoor. But the radioactive red coloring on it, which seems common in most Indian eateries, was quite scary and in my estimation, and quite unnecessary. Once I could get past this slight eye-sore, I was enjoying the rather moist and tasty bite.

The now-defunct Udupi had near its entrance a sweet and candy display counter, which, regrettably, is missing in its new location. However, the buffet line does have a sweet offering at the end. I finished my fiery and spicy meal with something rather mild – Rice Pudding and Almonds. It was only slightly sweet with the rice grains completely cooked and filled with bits of fragrant almond slivers. The use of cardamom and probably rose-water added some interesting fragrant notes to this simple yet tasty dessert.

With the abundance of Indian restaurants in the metro area, Tiffin stands out for its dishes that are well-spiced and that do not shy away from flavor. In addition, it is a place where one can indulge in vegetarian and non-vegetarian choices, and the presence of many satisfied Indian or non-Indian customers is a testament to the high quality cooking. Even if you are not vegetarian, you will walk out of there quite sated from the spicy and tasty offerings, whether made with vegetable or meat. Just make sure to stop by the counter for a breath mint, or a spoonful of anise seeds from a bowl sitting by the Hindu God Ganesh, before heading back to work, unless you run it at your workplace!

Thai Pavilion

Restaurants

A call from a friend took me completely by surprise – he invited me out for dinner to celebrate his birthday (age withheld here). Shouldn’t it be the other way round, which is the customary practice? But he explained that he is trying out my yearly practice of doing something for others on my birthday, which entails me spending a week cooking and inviting my friends over, or by hosting the party in a reserved section in my friend’s restaurant, Cafe Asia (see 2 blogs back). He added that he wanted to show his gratitude for our friendship that has lasted 20 years since our first meeting in Grad School (has it been that long?).

As the day progressed, we could not firm up our decision to where we would meet for “the meal”. Upon the 11th hour, I suggested that we could try one of my favorite vegetarian haunts up the road from his place. Being the die-hard carnivore that he is, he quickly shot it down and suggested a place in the newly built Rockville Town Center. This development is a confluence of shops and restaurants that cater to the rather affluent population in this part of Montgomery County, MD. He suggested that we visit Thai Pavilion which he has been a few times, and since it was his birthday, I did not offer any resistance.

The restaurant is located at the intersection of two walking boulevards and one would immediately notice its happenings through the large department-store-like windows flanking this corner. Upon stepping in, you realize that this place attempts to create a modern and rather casual feel, obviously an attempt to cater to the younger and those with deeper pockets. The guitarist strumming and crooning away in the background sounded more like Hard Rock Cafe Bangkok with the selection of familiar but over-played classics. But it was barely grinding on my nerves since not a bare soul paid him any mind, me included.

Well, right to the food (do I hear some singing in the background?). For the appetizers, my friend decided to try a couple of offerings that are not your usual Thai fare. The Spring Rolls here are not the typical vegetarian or chicken versions found is most places. Instead this restaurant’s rendition, a special, was stuffed with moist pieces of chopped shrimp, flaky bits of crab meat, cellophane noodles and mixed vegetables, all wrapped up with a thin crispy pastry. Obviously, the restaurant is making an effort to set themselves apart for the usual, which made for a good start to the meal.

As for me, I choose the Duck Pancakes which I have not seen in any Thai eatery. It is lightly battered roast duck that is sandwiched by a homemade pancake and seasoned with scallions and a slathering of the house duck sauce, obviously a take on the Chinese Peking Duck. The duck was still moist with a faint hint of 5-spice powder (not enough for me), sans crispy skin, but the pancakes were just a bit too thick for my taste and their gumminess made it quite a filling bite, which was not what I was trying to achieve. Nevertheless, a pretty good appetizer and an odd Thai offering.

As for the mains, my friend went for the familiar – Seafood Yellow Curry. Since he is a bit allergic to coconut milk, the dish was made with half-and-half. When his plate arrived, it was redolent with a myriad of seafood – plump mussels, huge shrimp, moist scallops, and tender squid. All the seafood was enveloped by a rather fragrant yellow curry sauce that was a bit lacking in the chili-heat department but did not overshadow the seafood sweetness. Crispy snow peas and carrots added the counter balance to its richness while providing more sweetness to the dish. This was indeed a seafood delight.

For my choice, I decided to go with a Thai seafood classic – Shrimp Clay Pot. The earthenware was filled with pieces of large plump shrimp, crispy sweet onions and sweet peppers, pungent scallions, gravy-soaked beanthread noodles, fresh woodsy shiitake mushrooms, all spiked by large julienned pieces of fresh ginger. Although it was lacking in the pepperiness that I had tasted in other versions and the crispiness from a heated clay pot (this one was not), the dish hit the spot for the quality ingredients and the good cooking coming out of the kitchen.

Well, I’m glad that my long time friend decided to be “generous” on his birthday and insisted that we ate at Thai Pavilion. The restaurant knows what it is doing with their twist on the traditional dishes and the finesse in the dishes that we sampled. It is definitely worth stopping by if you happen to be in the Rockville Town Center. Now if only I can pinpoint where that darn singing is coming from.