Food – Page 5 – Wong Eats

Yuan Fu

I have always had an affinity, and still do, for vegetarian/vegan cuisine. However, I have found that the best forms of this meatless realm are the ones tucked among the meat and seafood dishes, notably in Indian, Middle Eastern, and Asian restaurants. My experience has proven that vegetarian cuisine is very tricky in sustaining the interest of the diner, especially the omnivore, and that many exclusive vegetarian establishments don’t quite “get it”. But there is one place that has kept my taste buds curious with their offerings over the last few years. I paid the eatery my first visit many moons ago, and I left with a favorable impression by what I had that night. Due to the long distance from my former home to it, I did not return until my recent move closer, and this also made easier by the monthly meetings that I have to attend at a nearby school.

Yuan Fu Vegetarian Restaurant is located on the busy Rockville Pike in Rockville, MD, at the end of a 4-business strip mall that has been left unscathed by the rapid development around it – it is very easy to miss it especially due its location on the service road off the main road. Inside, the space is rather small without feeling cramped. The menu lists quite a number of appetizers and soups, and a few were sampled. On a number of occasions, I started my meal with the Hot and Sour Soup. The first spoonful was a bit of a surprise but it said it all. I was expecting a good hit of vinegar but what I tasted was milder. As my tongue adjusted to the flavor levels of vinegar, salt, chili heat, and savory stock, I was appreciating the fine balance that did not steer my tongue too far in any direction. The bits of button mushroom, Shiitake mushroom, Chinese mushroom, wood fungus, bamboo shoot, and tofu pieces added the “meaty” body and different textures to this thick bowl. The side of crispy dough bits tasted fresh and nearly greaseless. For me, this rendition will put any of the meat versions to shame with the well-balanced flavors and the bowl chokeful of mushroom and fungus.

Continuing the mushroom theme, I ordered the Crispy Black Mushroom on one occasion. Pieces of dark sinuous pieces arrived on some lettuce with a hint of a sticky sauce. Biting into them, the slightly crispy batter gave way to pieces of rather thick and chewy mushroom strands. I was truly amazed at the texture that was quite “meaty” and the flavors of the forest since I’m fond of these fungi, and I can never get enough of their flavors. The batter was made from rice batter, evidenced by the firm texture and slight bouncy give. The dark sweet sauce had hints of sugar, vinegar, and orange peel that made these pieces irresistible. Never mind that they are deep-fried since they were not greasy and the flavors enticing. This is a must-order in my books.

An appetizer on another occasion was Sesame Spinach Pancake. Triangles of pan-fried dough arrived with a deep green spinach stuffing peaking through. The outer layer was crispy tasting fragrant from whole sesame seeds toasted by the hot oil and slightly bouncy from the rice flour, much like Chinese sesame doughnuts I grew up on. The spinach filling tasted fresh and wholesome, but it was devoid of any salt which made them a bit underwhelming. But with the help of some condiments, Chinese mustard and sweet sauce, my interest was perked up with the sinus-clearing mustard and the sugar in the red sauce. Not exactly the most flavorful bite, but I appreciated the healthy elements in this pancake.

Still within the realm of dough and spinach, I ordered Tan Tan Noodles on one night. A bowlful of green noodles arrived topped with carrots, beansprouts, Inochi mushrooms, snowpeas, and shredded carrots. The star in the dish is definitely the noodles which were thick as udon, stained with spinach and cooked al dente, which made these dough strings slightly chewy and healthy tasting. The flavoring to the whole mix comprised of bits of salted radish and chili flakes that added the necessary saltiness and heat to each slurp. In addition, a small pool of broth at the bottom added the moisture and more savoriness to the mix. Not quite comparable to the real version that is heavily flavored with chili oil and seasoned chopped meat, I was yearning for a bit more flavor. But I appreciated this much healthier version as well as that bright green noodles whose every strand was worth slurping .

I was curious how the house would stand up to a Chinese classic – Pan-fried Dumplings. Four dumplings arrived with one side pan-fried and the rest steamed, signs of being cooked the proper way. One bite into the first bundle pointed my tongue in the right direction. The skin was thin and slightly elastic, encasing a stuffing of chopped Napa cabbage, bits of mushrooms, a good dose of ginger that added a fresh zing to the slightly dark flavors of the filling partners. The dipping sauce had notes of oakey black vinegar and chili oil that took these little parcels to another level, and I could have eaten the whole order easily before my main course – but I had to refrain from indulging in these wonderful bite-size packets.

The last dish that I savored from the appetizer section was Veggie Duck and Cilantro Rolls. Two halves of a wheat wrap arrived stuffed with mock duck, lettuce, cilantro leaves, and crushed peanuts. One bite into them revealed a rather firm but fresh wheat pancake, reminding me of the ones used for Peking Duck. The “meat” was made with pressed soy sheets and it was rather soft and moist, much like fowl meat, and exuding notes of dusky spices. The greens and herb were vibrant and they added the fresh notes to the meat, along with the fresh-tasting crushed peanuts that added some rich nuttiness to the whole mix. The sweet plum and Hoisin sauce was the perfect accompaniment with its sweet and sour notes. Although these bites were rather filling, it did not take much time to finish them off before the other courses due to the fresh and satisfying flavors and textures.

For the mains, one of the first dishes that I tried years ago, and is one of my favorites, is Veggie Duck with Basil and Ginger. A hot metal pot arrived boiling with a mound of brownness topped with some fragrant fresh basil. Pieces of “duck” (pressed soy sheets) are paired with button mushroom, fresh Shiitake mushroom, dried ginger, and mock smoked ham. This dish was a hit with me and friend from the first bite with the fragrant 5-spiced infused “poultry”, the depth of flavor from the dried ginger, the firm texture of the fungi, and the “meaty” smokiness from the “ham”. It was the gestalt effect of these elements that brought a lot of satisfaction to this diner and made this hot bowl totally irresistible for me. Not only is it a popular Chef’s Special but a must-order in my books.

Another dish on one night was Three Kinds of Crispy. The platter arrived with a mound of brown pieces that were not easily discernible at first sight. I started off with the dark strands sitting on top, and immediately I recognized it as the Crispy Black Mushroom appetizer that I was fond off – one down. The second bite was one of the battered rounds. The crispy and fairly exterior gave way to the silkiest and mildest eggplant piece that impressed me right away. Underneath this layer, I found pieces of battered mock chicken that mocked me for its meat-like texture and poultry-like flavor – three down. What brought these disparate elements together is the similar sweet dark sauce found in the mushroom appetizer that tantalized the taste buds with the fragrance of dried orange peel and heat from whole dried chilies. This is definitely a vegetarian version of the ubiquitious Orange Chicken, but tasting supped up with the chewy mushroom and melt-in-the-mouth eggplant pieces which kept me marveling at each bite. The batter got to be a bit filling, making the side rice bowl a bit redundant in the fill-the-stomach category.

Another fried battered dish that caught my attention one night was Crispy Hunan Fish Fillet. The colorful plate comprised of large pieces of “fish” and some parboiled fresh vegetables on the side. The “fish” pieces had a soft texture and appearance of crab meat, while the seaweed wrapping imparting a scent of the sea. I found the protein pieces a bit stodgy due to a thin piece of taro root used to hold the “fish” together, but by removing it, it didn’t taste as “heavy”. The vegetables were perfectly cooked as well as the pieces of pea and carrot on top of the fish. But no Hunan dish is really veritable if were not for its sauce. Here, we have a perfectly executed one with the right amount of vinegar, sugar, chili heat, salt, and spicy bean paste – the proper elements to make the right Hunan sauce. I would order this again just for that well-executed sauce that made this dish sing.

Another Chef’s Special was the last dish I savored on my trips there – Chow San Shein. The plate arrived glowing bright with colorful pieces of sweet pepper, broccoli, snowpeas, yellow squash, and three types of main elements. The smoked “ham” like in the Veggie Duck dish was present, exuding its savory smokiness and having a meat-like bite. The oval bites of “baby abalone” had a slightly firm texture reminding me of fish cakes and tasting of seafood notes. But it was the “carved and curved” Shiitake mushroom that screamed for my gastronomic attention. These pieces were slighty “meaty” in texture, reminding me of the consistency of squid, and replete with its forest goodness that made me look for more of it among all the other goodness. The brown sauce, probably vegetarian oyster sauce, was the right balance of flavors that brought all the elements together without being gloopy or overwhelming the integrity of each ingredient including the fresh-tasting perfectly cooked vegetables. I must say I couldn’t get enough of this flavorful and healthy looking dish and I’m looking forward to another order of this dish.

Finally, I have found a vegetarian restaurant that not only serves dishes that are well-executed and properly seasoned, but they are inventive enough to keep me wanting to try more of its offerings despite the lack of animal protein. At times, I could not believe that I was enjoying them as much as I did, with the wonderful perfectly balanced Hot and Sour Soup, the crispy “meaty” bites in the Crispy Black Mushroom, the al dente spinach-colored Tan Tan Noodles, the gingery and savory Dumplings, and the flavorful and equally tempting mains made with mock duck, seafood, ham and chicken. Putting aside the lack of meat and seafood protein, the kitchen here understands what it takes to serve exciting and flavorful dishes, pointing towards the history of vegetarian cuisine in the Far East as the result of practicing the Buddhist faith. No wonder an article published yesterday named it the top Chinese restaurant in Maryland (read article) – maybe a slight hyperbole, but a quite fair estimation in my books.

Askale Cafe

Food, Restaurants

I’m rather fond of Ethiopian food, and I have had my fair share of this East African cuisine since my arrival in this city 25 years ago for Grad School. Over the years, the DC area has become a destination point for Ethiopian immigrants, and the result is no shortage of restaurants that offer their cuisine. However, I have always had a difficulty deciding which restaurant to visit to do a write-up on since nearly all offer the same dishes on the menu. But when I saw an online coupon for a fairly new establishment in the Brookland neighborhood, a most unexpected place, that performs an Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony, I knew that this was the exact place for me to review. With coupon in hand, I paid them a visit recently for this review.

The following series of photographs will describe the various stages of the Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony:

Walking into Askale Cafe, one is immediately enveloped by a cloud of burning incense, smelling rather strong of myrrh and reminding me of being in a Cathedral and evoking the feeling of an Ethiopian Orthodox church. Throughout the ceremony, the Mistress of Ceremony was refilling the burner with some incense powder.

A earthen pot carrying burning charcoal was later brought in, a sight that I have not seen since my grandmothers were alive more than 30 years ago. Burning embers were removed and placed in the incense urn to keep the incense powder burning throughout the ceremony. A brass plate was placed on top of the fire, topped with raw coffee beans with a sickle-like brass rake next to it. Notice the light color of the coffee beans.

The beans were raked over the hot brass plate until it is quite dark in color, but not burnt like in American or French roast. The roasting took quite a bit of time, with the MOC keeping a vigilant eye on the beans and without stopping the raking motion as it got faster as the beans became darker. Once the desired roast was achieved, the beans were removed to cool down on a jute-leaf plate. Notice the popcorn in the background which was used as a palate-cleanser later during the coffee drinking.

As part of the ceremony, all guests were invited to catch a waft of the roasted beans. The smell was beyond the immediate roasting smoke, exuding aromas of enticing roasted coffee beans with their toasted notes and creating an anticipation of its potential liquid form.

Once cooled, the whole beans were ground finely and poured into a jet-black earthen jar that had been set on the burning coals that had brought some water to a boil. A wooden stop was used to keep the steam in while the ground coffee was brewing.

When the coffee was sufficiently brewed, it was poured into small cups, much like Chinese teacups, in a single stream without any breaks, a symbolism of the continuity of life despite its ups and downs. One sip of the brew was quite a revelation: The hot drink had a full-bodied flavor devoid of the bitterness found in stronger roasts. A certain fruitiness was evident in the rather high acid level on the tongue, pointing to the nature of the bean and the fruit around it, this further emphasized due to the lack of sugar as recommended by the MOC. After adding a bit of sugar, the sourness was more palatable. Not exactly what I expected but I knew it was going to be a different cup, and I was enjoying the whole experience of watching from bean to brew.

On to the food. We ordered the vegetarian platter listed as Ethio-Mix. From top left clockwise: Gomen – collard greens cooked with some garlic and spices that enhanced the dark-nature of this green, lightened by a touch of vinegar; Cabbage and Carrots – this mixture was cooked with turmeric without turning to mush, and the natural sweet notes were shining through with the cabbage and more so with the so-sweet carrot; Red Lentils – this legume was quite a hit with the lentils cooked until soft and tasting full-flavored and slightly sweet; Yellow Lentils – this legume was not as tasty as the previous side but I appreciated the mild flavors and its mealy texture. Overall, this was a successful vegetarian/vegan combination that was wiped clean off the platter that they were served in.

For the meat, we ordered Awaze Tibs. Strips of beef were cooked with garlic, onions, tomato, and fresh ginger along with some spices that made the meat bits very flavorful and a bit smokey from the condiments. The ginger added a fresh flavor, the fresh tomato a bit of sweetness and acidity to lighten the beef, and the slices of jalapeño the vegetal spice kick. The meat was a tad firm but I didn’t expect it to be smooth as butter either, and the whole mix was a hit for me and my companion. The fermented sourdough spongy Injera bread tasted light, fresh, and the right amount of sourness to be the perfect vehicle for all the vegetables, legumes, and meaty pieces. The customary use of hands in eating the dishes added to the satisfactory meal experience.

Well this was the experience that I was looking for in order to write this blog. The coffee ceremony was not only charming but it was a cultural experience that was both revelatory and unique. The cup of java was not exactly what one would expect due to his or her conditioning, but the flavor was aromatic and amazingly, there was no hint of bitterness on my tongue on the drive home. Still lingering on my taste buds were also the vegetable and beef dishes that my companion and I enjoyed for lunch, with the wonderful flavors and well-prepared dishes having a lasting impression on my mind. Yes, the service is a tad slow since it is a family run place, but the culinary experience was well-compensated by the quality of cooking and the personable treatment by the husband-and-wife team. I can’t wait for their liquor license to be approved soon and for this cafe to turn into a proper restaurant. Once the ball gets rolling in that area, I’m sure it will be a hit in the neighborhood.

Zaytinya

Food, Restaurants

A call from a long-time friend for dinner was immediately returned with an affirmative answer, especially when it was an invitation to Zaytinya in Washington DC. I had known about this buzz-filled establishment recommended by many foodies and friends. However, I dared not make a visit to its location in the very busy and restaurant-filled 9th street corridor due to the logistical obstacles set-up by the DMV, that is the DC Motor Vehicles – speed cameras, limited street parking, expensive garage parking, and metered street parking until midnight, if you can find one. Well, I could not forgo this opportunity of visiting this Mezze-style eatery, owned by José Andrés, who owns the veteran tapas Spanish restaurant, Jaleo. After finding free parking a few blocks, I knew I was in for a good experience.

Zaytinya’s menu is filled with small sharing dishes from the lower Mediterranean, notably Turkey, Greece, and Lebanon. Perusing the menu can be quite daunting with the dishes labeled in the original names. But reading the descriptions gives the diner a general idea of what to expect and a picture of the flavors and dish itself, perhaps jolting a memory of the dish from the recesses of the mind. I recognized a few that I have eaten over the years and was adventurous enough to try a few new ones, mulling over them as I munched on the complementary pita bread which was light and well-baked, but lacking a sense of character, like yeast and wheat bran notes that I would expect from a good Mediterranean bakery. But I was quick to overlook it since I was anticipating the dishes that would make up our dinner.

The first to arrive was Fattoush. It is a Lebanese salad that usually consists of lettuce, cucumber, red onions, green peppers and topped with baked pita croutons. The version here had in addition pretty slices of red radish and mouth-popping pomegranate that added its sweet and fruity notes along with some toothsome texture. The pomegranate vinegar dressing was a departure from the usual lemon and olive oil dressing; however, the use of the sour Sumac powder didn’t venture far from the traditional. This salad was a fresh meal opener with the very fresh ingredients and the various flavors and textures waking the mouth up with these appealing elements.

The next to be served was Batinjan Bil Laban. Three rings of deep-fried battered eggplant arrived sitting on a pool of roasted garlic yogurt sauce and a piece of mint leaf. One bite into them revealed a skillful kitchen with the perfectly fried and nearly grease-free pieces. The batter was light and crispy at the same time, revealing an ethereally light and melting eggplant inside sans any bitterness. The yogurt sauce was the necessary companion that added some creaminess, acidity, mild garlic notes, and a depth in flavor. I could not get enough of these crispy/melting bites with their perfect pairing of textures and flavors.

Continuing in the vegetable department, the next to arrive was both vegetable and mushroom inspired – Mushroom Couscous. The evocative brass bowl arrived with a mound of large Lebanese couscous, studded with large pieces of mushroom, leaves of Brussels sprouts, and topped with garlic tourn, a type of sour cream. Wow, this dish kept my spoon returning back to this bowl. The pearl grains were perfectly cooked without being too firm or mushy, tasting savory having been cooked in some stock. The mushroom pieces added its boschiness that elevated this dish beyond boring starch, along with the creamy sour cream that added the necessary lusciousness to the whole mix. The pieces of Brussels sprout did nothing to this dish since its mild flavor barely made its presence known. But, I was quick to overlook it since everything else was “on point.”

To round off the meal, we chose a couple of non-vegetable dishes. One order was Fried Squid. Pieces of the seafood arrived with some garlic-yogurt sauce on the side. I was expecting the usual from these morsels, perhaps due to me having my fair share of this. Each piece was not only perfectly battered and fried, but the squid was tender and fresh tasting. The fresh dill on top provided the fresh herbaceous note to the seafood that added more interest, as well as the pungent garlic-yogurt sauce that lent more flavor and creaminess to each bite. My eye was zoning in on the last few scrumptious pieces, to which I made my move before my dining companion could – checkmate.

The other savory dish was a special – Seared Ossabaw Pork Belly. The beautiful alabaster plate arrived with two pieces of pork belly, potato confit, grain mustard sauce, and orange gliko. One bite into the belly pointed towards a quality ingredient that has been prepared well, with the mild tasting pork fat and meat exuding a its rich porcine flavor. Equally strong were the pieces of potato, perhaps Yukon Gold, that were full of flavor and character, and they were competing for this diner’s attention. The mustard sauce was the right match for the fatty meat, as well as the orange gliko, a type of Greek marmalade, that was peaking my gastronomic curiosity with its faint bitter orange and sweet notes that also matched the fatty pieces well. But this was a rich dish which I enjoyed more than my friend, who took only a small bite.

Just as we thought we were done with the meal, we decided to look at the dessert menu, and we ended up ordering the Turkish Coffee Chocolate Cake. The plate arrived with a molten chocolate cake (fondant) with some sea salt grains on top, dressed with some caramel, pistachio nuts, and ice cream. One break into the cake revealed its hot gooey interior, tasting of the slight bitter notes from the rich coffee and dark chocolate, and complemented by the salty element. The caramel sauce was called for to add the sweet balance to each bite. But it was the ice cream that got my attention most. There was a unique flavor that I had never come across, and my mind was racing through mental archives to find its origin. After making a query to the waiter, I was told that it was pistachio sap used in the ice cream, which was quickly filed in my mental notes. What a interesting ingredient that reminded me of maple syrup, and I was tempted to lick every melted drop from the plate. My friend’s cup of cappuccino was more than adequate with its bold flavor without the bitterness usually found in American blend.

Well, that was a visit well over due. What I appreciated about this establishment besides its swanky space is the variety of flavors found in this Mediterranean-inspired menu which not only showcased quality in the cooking but also the ingredients themselves. Yes, you sense the respect for the traditional dishes, but a bit of creativity has been infused into the usual to give them some new interests. Furthermore, I was titillated by the new flavors found in the use of certain ingredients, as in orange gliko with the pork belly, and mastiha in the ice cream. Even with only 5 savory small plates and dessert between two, my friend and I were more than satisfied with our orders. To top it off, the bill only came up to $55 for the both of us, which, in my estimation, is very reasonable for this calibre of cooking and for the DC restaurant scene. Now, that is Good Eats!
.
.

Belgian/American – Marvin Restaurant

Food, Restaurants

In my last posting, I mentioned exchanging a conversion with two couples in the same restaurant. During the conversation, one of them mentioned Marvin, a restaurant with a Belgian/American mix in its menu, located in the busy U St. corridor – the restaurant is named after Marvin Gaye who lived for 2 years in Belgium in search for much needed solace and personal discovery. Although my pals and I made plans to visit a Malaysian-style restaurant for lunch, only to find it closed for lunch (they were supposed to be open), I remembered the lady’s recommendation. So, here is a short blurp about what our brunch was like, not quite a full-fledged blog.

Please LIKE my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/wongeats

French Press Coffee: This hot cup was not too bitter like American roast, but it had enough body with a mild hint of chicory which I love in my cup of java.

Belgian-American Breakfast Sandwich: Bacon, scrambled eggs, and cheese came sandwiched by Belgian waffles, accompanied by a mesclun salad. The bacon was exceptional with its tasty clean flavors, the egg moist with a touch of cream, but the ho-hum waffle was salvaged by the pure Vermont maple syrup exuding its coffee-like (yes) notes. The basic salad was elevated by the limey/lemony vinaigrette. However, both my dining partners (they had the same order) were not impressed by the dish.

Shrimp and Cheddar Grits: This dish was recommended by the lady in the first paragraph, and I must say it did live up to its reputation. The shrimp was plump and fresh, tasting properly seasoned, and the shell exuded notes of being grilled without grill marks, obviously from high-heat pan searing. The stone-ground grits (the uneven texture was the giveaway) tasted rich from butter and the cheese, as well as being seasoned just right. The pool of shrimp jus was the rich sauce that took this simple dish to the next level with the enriched stock packed with flavor steeped from shrimp shells. The only thing that marred the near-perfect dish was the chalky quality from the larger bits of grits that were not fully cooked through. Good grits take some time.

Marvin is a place for the hip and young that tries to create a juke-joint feel, especially with the loud music which encourages the crowd to indulge in the bottomless Mimosas. However, it is not a place to really focus on the food and to have a decent conversation without shouting across the table.

Lebanese/Syrian – Bistro LaZeez

Food, Restaurants

Just a quick post on a dinner visit to Bistro LaZeez in Bethesda, MD. Not enough for a blog but just a post with a couple of highlights.

Please visit my Facebook page and please LIKE it:

https://www.facebook.com/wongeats

The Falafels’ crunchy exterior held a moist and dark-spiced flavorful interior. The lemony tahini sauce was the perfect companion to these delicious bites. Two couples next to us also ordered the same appetizer, as well as Kibbeh (like falafel but with spiced meat), which they also enjoyed.

The Lentil Soup was not as thick as one usually finds, but it was full of flavor.

House Salad was your usual salad with a bit of Sumac and citrusy lemon olive oil vinaigrette.

Chicken Medley – the pieces of poultry were marinated in a tangy garlic sauce that added a zing and flavor, but the dark meat was cooked too long, hence the rather dry and tough pieces, even for these cuts of meat. However, I enjoyed the heavily scented yellow turmeric rice with almonds, along with the grilled vegetables. The sumac-laced baked pita bread added some textural and flavor contrast to the dish.

The Grilled Cornish Hen tasted of the same marinade as the above chicken which was a bit too tart for my dining companion, and he mistakenly poured the marinade over the pieces before trying them, adding to his woes. The pieces of poultry suffered the same fate as the above dish for they were overcooked – a casualty of being double-cooked (precooked first) and not grilled from scratch. Usually one to take home leftovers, his was not packed-up this time. The couples next to us confirmed that their chicken was equally dry.

Highlights 2014

Food, Restaurants

To end the year of food blogging, I am sending out this posting with the highlights of my gastronomic adventure throughout the year. I hope you enjoy re-savoring these delights that I encountered in the last 12 months (and a bit more).

FULL KEY – Cantonese (read Blog)

– Shrimp Dumpling Soup

– Roast Duck Noodle Soup (also Wonton Noodle Soup)

– Salt and Pepper Crispy Seafood

CHASIN TAILS – Creole/Cajun (read Blog)

–Fried Green Tomato

– Andouille Sausage and Seafood Gumbo

– Beignets and Strawberry Coulis

YIA YIA’S KITCHEN – Greek (read Blog)

– Fried Calamari

– Moussaka/ Greek Greenbeans/ Roasted Potatoes

– Pork Gyro

BOB’S SHANGHAI 66 – Shanghainese (read Blog)

– Xiao Long Bao/Soup Dumpling

– Fried Flounder in Hot Chili Sauce

– Spicy Wontons

AMBAR – Balkan (read Blog)

– Mushroom Crepes with Cheese

– Forest Gnocchi

–Duck Breast with Cracklings and Saffron Onions

LA SIRENITA – Mexican (read Blog)

– Tostada de Ceviche

– Mole Poblano/ Chicken Molé

– Coctel de Camaron/ Shrimp Cocktail

SAMANTHA’S RESTAURANT – Pan Latino (read Blog)

– Tamal de Pollo/ Chicken Tamal

– Pupusa de Loroco

– Pastel Tres Leches

PHO AND GRILL 198 – Vietnamese (read Blog)

– Banh Xeo/ Crispy Stuffed Crepes

– Bun Bo Hue/ Spicy Beef Noodle

– Pleiku Stuffed Roll

TAQUERIA DISTRITO FEDERAL – Mexican (read Blog)

– Shrimp Tacos

– Pozole/ Pork Hominy Soup

– Pork and Chicken Tamales

HIMALAYAN HERITAGE – Nepali (read Blog)

– Stuffed Chatamari

– Asparagus Bhutuwa

– Sikarni/ Sweet Yogurt Dessert

THAI TASTE – Thai (read Blog)

– Chiang Mai Noodles

– Shrimp Pad Thai

– Crispy Pork Belly and Eggplant

LA CANELA – Peruvian (read Blog)

– Arroz con Pato/ Duck with Rice

.
– Ceviche de Pescado/ Fish Ceviche

MAZAGAN – Moroccan (read Blog)

– Bastilla/ Chicken Almond Pastry

– Lamb Couscous

– Harira Soup

LA LIMEñA – Peruvian (read Blog)

– Parihuela/ Seafood Soup

.
– Ceviche Mixto

– Picarones/ Sweet Potato Pumpkin Doughnuts

.
– Lucama Ice Cream

JDS SHANGHAI FAMOUS FOOD – Shanghainese (read Blog)

– Salt Pepper Shrimp

– Crab/Pork Xiao Long Bao/ Soup Dumpling

UNFORGETTABLE FLAVORS – Jamaican (read Blog)

– Coconut Curry Shrimp

– Escovitch Red Snapper

– Jerk Chicken/Brown Stew

– Ackee and Saltfish

– Rum Cake

Thank you for following me the last year. I hope you continue to enjoy my blogs as I discover and write about more exciting places in 2015. Happy New Year!

Unforgettable Flavors

Food, Restaurants

Since writing about a Jamaican Jerk shack a couple of years ago (read blog), I have been on a hunt for a similar eatery serving this Caribbean cuisine that many establishments disappointingly offer as pale versions for my taste buds. So, when a reader following my blog made mentioned of a nearby location, my ears perked up as I listened attentively. Unfortunately, due to distractions and slow-firing synapses, I did not follow-up with my intention and I forgot the name of the place. A couple of weeks ago, such place was highlighted in one of my restaurant online review weekly mailings. That night itself, I paid the first of a series of visits to write this review.

Unforgettable Flavors (yeah, I know, how could I forget it) is located in College Park, MD, at the basement of a multi-story apartment building in a cluster of them, a most unlikely place to run an eating business. After reading many glowing reviews online and tips on how to reach the place, I did not have problems finding it and walking through its doors, unlike some online reviewers and a Washington Post reviewer, who wrote two paragraphs on his woe (seriously?). Walking into the brightly lit space with only 8 formica laminate tables, a take-out sofa, and some wall countertops, one notices that half of the shop space is taken up by the order counter and the kitchen. Despite the lackluster appearance of things in the space, although brightened up by the vivid wall paint and equally colorful paintings, there is a buzz that forecasts that something exciting is happening here. While sipping on the complementary amuse-bouche of a demi-tasse of soup (different concoctions on each visit: oxtail stew, red snapper bisque, chicken and 16 beans – all well-seasoned and packed with flavor) that injected more anticipation within, I quickly surveyed the menu with the traditionally inspired dishes that would make up this review.

Most Jamaican eateries have their homemade drinks and juices displayed in the mixer sitting on the order counter, and this place is no exception – but I had to try them. The first glass was Sorrel, a hibiscus flower drink. The wine glass contained the reddish drink that had its characteristic slightly tart quality, a light tannin puckeriness, slight ginger bite (a new twist), and a judicious amount of sugar that was just right for my taste buds, all elements bringing a smile to my lips, and a sense of antioxidant relief to the body. Another day’s drink was made with pineapple juice and ginger. This mixture was irresistible with the fresh and naturally sweet fruit juice, punctuated by a stronger ginger note that provided some heat to the back of the throat and woke all the senses up. The chef said it was made with fresh pineapple juice, which I appreciated every drop of its oh-so-goodness. Again, the sugar level was just right, allowing this sugar-sensitive imbiber to return to his tall glass without any reservation.

One of the litmus tests of a Caribbean eatery is usually with the Patties. The first version I tried was made with beef. The cut-up pastries arrived on a bed of mixed leaf salad (nice chefy touch) looking similar yet different from the versions I’ve had. The pastry was the orange-hued flaky dough, a tradition trait, but there was no pocket of air like others I’ve seen. The filling was savory without the usual over-seasoning (others), and there was a mild chili burn that crept up after a few bites. What I enjoyed about these bites was the home-made quality and the balanced seasoning that did not make them too “beefy”. A spinach version was ordered on another occasion. The pale flaky crust (traditional look) held a smooth filling exuding a mild vegetable flavor with bare bitterness, an intriguing Indian-inspired spice note, and a level of savoriness that brought a level of satisfaction and fascination with each bite – I just could not get enough of it. The side sweet sauce was unnecessary when we already have a wonderfully made vegetable pastry like this version here. The patties here standout in a subtle way with their well-balanced flavors and seasoning, as well as their in-house made appearance, which make them worthy meal-openers.

Another appetizer savored was Jerk Wingettes. Usually, I would turn my nose up on an order of wings as I find most renditions to be characterless and rather pedestrian. But I was curious to see how these wings would be treated with the classic Jamaican seasoning. One bite into the first morsel hooked me immediately. The flesh was well-cooked, firm yet moist, with a slide-off-the-bone quality. But what reeled me in was the jerk seasoning that was generous on each piece, dried out from the cooking and smoking, and permeating all the way to the bone judging by the light pinkish hue (not signs of raw meat) found in each bite. Before I knew it, my partner and I wiped the plate clean with no shame. The side of ranch dressing was home-made, tasting more flavorful than the store-bought version – but, it was more a distraction from the real star of this small plate.

A portion of the menu is dedicated to breakfast, and there was a single dish that grabbed my attention. For the longest, I had heard of Ackee and Saltfish, and I was thrilled to find it here. So, after a busy morning helping out at a food pantry, I arrived past breakfast time to order this, and Chef Neville was happy to oblige me with this late order. The dish arrived with a melange of colorful ingredients looking like scrambled eggs accompanied by some fried bread. My first bite spoke ,”Now, this is what they have been talking about.” The yellow bits of the Ackee fruit had the soft texture of French-style omelette while they exuded a light tartness that made them more intriguing, this coupled by the acid in the tomato pieces The shredded salted fish still retained its salinity along as its slightly rough firmness. But it was the pieces of fried bread that tied all flavors together with its perfectly fried lightness, and a slightly savory dough that acted as the perfect canvas for all the disparate elements in this composition. I was thoroughly enjoying this dish not just for its satisfying flavors, but also for the cultural and gastronomic journey that whisked me away to warm waters. This is truly The Breakfast of Champions (what say you, Mr. Bolt?), at least for that part of the world, and for this diner that afternoon.

For another trip during lunch, I chose the Spiced Tilapia Sandwich that is listed on the menu as one of their popular dishes. The plate arrived with fish fillets sandwiched by Coco bread and the usual tomato and lettuce garnishes. Since I’m not a big french fries type of guy, I opted for something more interesting and appropriate for the cuisine – fried plantains. The pieces of seafood were well-cooked since they were quite moist and tasted fairly fresh, while the Coco bread was pillowy soft and added a slight sweet note to the mix. However, my taste buds were distracted by a number of things. The filets were underseasoned and I was barely detecting any spice heat that would make them exciting. Furthermore, the soft texture of the fish paired with the soft bread became a gray-on-gray textural issue for me as I was yearning for some contrasts in the flavor and texture departments – maybe a slightly crispy outer coating would have done the trick for me. The inherent muddiness of tilapia, found in the dark red central nerve, was overwhelming for me on this occasion – I usually remove this portion when cooking this fish. But all these issues are easy quick fixes that I know this creative kitchen can get it right. The perfectly fried plantains (in clean fresh oil, yes!) were not too sweet nor too bland, reminding me that this is not dessert nor plain starch.

No Jamaican establishment would have the following meat dishes amiss from its menu, and I managed to savor a number of these offerings here. On my first trip, I ordered a combination of Jerk Chicken and Brown Stew. The Jerk was properly cooked with no excess moisture (usually from baking), with the firm flesh falling off the bone, and with the skin completely rendered of fat. The seasoning was “proper” with the right mixture of aromatic spices and the scotch bonnet heat that was both present and lingering in each piece. There was a certain smokiness that added to the flavors which I read that the kitchen has found an ingenious way of imparting it without illegally sending smoke billowing out of the apartment building, unlike the aforementioned place in the opening paragraph. One forkful of the Brown Stew said Grandmother’s Chicken Stew; well, my grandmother’s. The chicken was fork-tender while holding its meaty integrity. But it was the level of savory umami-ness that permeated throughout each bite that prevented me from putting my fork down. It even pressed me to ask the chef if any soy sauce was present, to which he replied that it had burnt sugar to give the depth of flavor in the sauce. An order of Braised Oxtails was equally satisfying. The meat to bone proportion was generous in favor of meat, and each meaty morsel was braised long enough to be fork-tender without falling apart. But again, it was the sauce that made the dish with its meaty savoriness as well as a great depth of flavor that would make it finger-licking-good. The topping of butter beans nearly stole the show with its proper cooking and amazingly smooth quality that was making overtures to cheekily compete with its beef partner. The sides that came with these orders (2 per order) were equally savory and impressive. The Braised Curry Spinach won me over immediately with its smoothness like creamed spinach (maybe a bit of dairy here) and the garam massala spicing that took these greens to another interesting level. The Rice and Beans were proper but with the use of Basmati rice that give it a twist; the undersalted perfectly cooked fluffy grains were the perfect foil to the rich brown stew sauce. The Curried Cabbage was irresistible with the non-mushy leaves cooked with a light hint of curry and enriched by some butter that complemented the cabbage’s sweet notes. As one notices, the kitchen does pay attention to small details, and such gesture makes the whole meal worth being resavored in the mind, even days after.

Back to the first visit and to the sea. My dining companion was in a mood for something rather light, and he caught eye of a salmon special listed on the specials menu board outside. What arrived was visually appealing and it brought a smile to my friend’s mouth. But what got him effusive with complements was the first bite of this dish – I had to have a taste of what he was raving about. The salmon was perfectly cooked, slightly firm but moist, further moistened by a beurre blanc sauce that was rich and slightly tangy. The topping of julienned squash, zucchini, and carrots added the healthy element to the dish, alongside a triangle of crispy puffed flatbread. You know a dish is that good when the complements do not stop at the last mouthful, as was in the case of my friend. A lunch order on another visit was Coconut Curry Shrimp. When the plate arrived, I knew that the dish’s neat beautiful appearance was going to reveal something good. The pieces of deveined shrimp were perfectly and skilfully cooked without a trace of rubberiness, which I found very impressive. Equally impressive was the sauce that was not overwhelming with its slight coconut creaminess, the judicious scent of curry powder, and the right chili heat from dried chili flakes. A tinge of sweetness was the agent that rounded these flavors in this impressive dish whose sauce was nearly licked off the plate – again, we see the chef’s sense of restraint and balance in his cooking. The side of Mac and Cheese made me appreciate this dish after taking a haitus from it. The perfectly cooked penne (in between al dente and overcooked) was topped by a light and flavorful bechamel sauce and gratineed with a mixture of cheeses that exuded some tartness and bitter notes in the rich creamy mix. Sometimes less is more, as in the case of the toppings in this home dish.

I could not get away from the sea with the offerings here, which is of no surprise to any Jamaican. I had in mind to try the Kingfish, which I requested it cooked “escovitched”. However, Chef Neville came out from the kitchen to tell me that Red Snapper was a better choice, and that he would prepare it especially for me – how could one say no to that. What came out from the kitchen was truly worthy and a spectacle for the senses. After taking the necessary photos, I contemplated how much could I eat from the dish since I had finished off the jerk wingettes. What was left at the end were just fins, head, and bones. The fish was fresh tasting with its unique slightly dark seafood flavor, perfectly cooked to retain the moisture yet crispy on the edges. The escovitch sauce possessed restrained amounts of vinegar, sugar, and chili heat along with the noticeable acrid notes from the scotch bonnet pepper, allowing for the seafood flavors to standout from a sauce that could possibly overpower the delicate flesh. Wow. Such skilful tight-wire act needed no comprehension by my taste buds which instinctively ravished what it knew as damn good. What is a non-smoker’s version of a post-meal smoke especially after ingesting this incredibly well-executed dish?

Well, the answer to the above question (although meant to be rhetorical) is some great desserts. Rum Cake was immediately the bulls-eye once I saw it in the display counter. One bite into it was not what I expected at all. Familiar memories of steamed Christmas pudding came to mind (from my adolescent years in England), and I could detect bits of soft prunes and raisin in this amazingly moist and spongy cake; the kitchen staff later confirmed my suspicion of its make-up. The rum scent was fairly adequate along with the dark molasses-like notes, but I was in the holiday mood for more alcoholic indulgence with these bites. This was definitely not the usual rum cake but one that captivated me with this Christmas pudding version which is rarely served around here. An order on another visit was highly recommended by online reviewers – Lemon Meringue Cake. Again, this sweet cake commanded all my attention. The moist cake was perfectly cooked with the right amount of ingredients and a noticeable lemon oil scent, coupled by the equally scented tart pastry cream interspacing the layers, and topped with some shavings of white chocolate. Mind you, I had already finished off some jerk wingettes and a whole red snapper. But this citrusy sweet finale prevented me from falling into gastronomic lethargy, and I had no problem finishing off every crumb off the plate. No thanks to the online reviewers for contributing to my struggles with a mini-diet.

Respect, Skill, Understanding, Honoring Tradition, and downright Good Eats – these are the elements that I encountered at every visit at this unassuming restaurant that just kept my interests searching for more. Despite a minor hiccup with the fish sandwich, the rest that I savored from its menu kept calling up these thoughts about what the kitchen and Chef Neville were capable of. Starting from the drinks, leading to the Patties and Jerk Wingettes, to the Jerk Chicken, Brown Stew, Braised Oxtail, along with the myriad of side dishes, to the seafood dishes, and finally the desserts, especially the spiked Christmas pudding. Obviously, not only does this establishment know what they are doing, but the kitchen possesses the understanding and skill level to impress anyone who walks through its doors with its Jamaican offerings (Chef Neville has done a few stints at big hotels including The Willard). As I end the year with this posting (Highlight 2014 blog coming soon) on a very high note, I’m glad to have stumbled across this eatery that makes me look forward to another place like this while I chase after the next gastronomic peak. With such impressive cooking, who could forget the delectable dishes at Unforgettable Flavors.

Directions: From the Beltway, take Route 1 South. Turn right at next light, Cherry Hill Rd. Pass shopping area, and look for Seven Springs Apartment on left – take the second entrance. The restaurant is located at the basement of last multi-story building on right, across from pool.

La Limeña

Food, Restaurants

Recently, I paid a visit to a Peruvian restaurant (read blog) in the Rockville Town Center which left me quite satisfied with their offerings. Perusing online, I came across many glowing reviews for another locale nearby serving the same South American cuisine – even a couple of co-workers had mentioned about their positive experiences at this establishment. And so, with some enthusiasm and such affirmations in mind, I made a couple of trips to this newly discovered restaurant for this review.

La Limeña is tucked in a maze of strip malls, located just off the main thoroughfare, Route 355, in Rockville, MD, a suburban town that is growing in population as well as some good eats. Walking in, you immediately notice the charcoal fueled grills and rotisserie with skewered chickens being turned as that day’s offering. Past a display counter of glowingly seductive desserts, the dining room is actually smaller that what I imagined, perhaps due to the above-mentioned space-takers past the entrance. But the dining room is welcoming with their granite tables filled with a line of smart-looking wait staff appearing eager to please the clientele.

While munching on some complementary plantain chips and fried corn kernels (tasted like crunchy popcorn), I perused the menu and recognized some dishes from my recent blog and from past experiences with another eatery, as well as, interestingly, some Cuban dishes. But I chose to stick with the South American cuisine. A co-worker had mentioned to me to try Anticucho, which is grilled beef heart. Two large skewers with large pieces of the offal arrived with a roasted potato and some pickled onions. The pieces of heart were an interesting texture and flavor; the meaty morsels had a steak texture but with a firmer bounce much like skirt steak, and the flavor was much like beef but with a faint bitter note to remind you that this was not a regular cut of meat. The salt level was sufficient to counteract the bitter note, paired with a faint smoke scent from the grilling, and a mild paprika-like flavor from the marination. I was returning to these bites as I was trying to wrap my taste buds around these new flavors and textures. Even though this dish was a novelty for me, eventually the skewers were a bit on a one-note level, and my interest was weaning off. Another appetizer I had to savor was Empañada de Carne which is famous from this part of the world. The pastry arrived with some powder sugar dusted on top, reminding me of the Moroccan sweet savory pastry, Bastilla, that I recently wrote about. Breaking into it, the pastry was quite tender and flaky. However, going through the filling, I was a bit nonplussed by the use of ground beef (instead of meat pieces), an insufficient amount of seasoning and moisture, and the lack of and the uneven distribution of raisins and olives (a single piece). I must say that this was quite a let-down for a pastry that I am fond of, and surprisingly, in this restaurant.

A trip to a Peruvian eatery usually is not without an order of their famous appetizer – Ceviche. Here, I went for the whole package, Ceviche Mixto, which arrived with pieces of shrimp, squid, and fish, accompanied by some fresh corn, fried corn kernels, and pieces of sweet potato. This rendition of the semi-cooked seafood was quite different from the version I wrote about a few blogs ago. The pieces of shrimp were parboiled judging by their firm quality, the squid rings and tentacles similarly cooked but pliable and non-rubbery, and the pieces of fish were acid-cooked and had a bit firmer bounce than the other place, partly due to the thinner slices compared to the thick cubes in the aforementioned place. Aside from the textural differences, the marinade was a creamier looking liquid with its strong lime juice and a good chili hit that added the necessary acidic and spice to the whole mix that made the whole dish delectable and completely irresistible. The side accompaniments adequately provided the sweet and crunch as a foil to the soft tart seafood. I could see why many customers were ordering this large appetizer as their main course as I satisfyingly finished my dish off.

Continuing with the sea theme, a couple of these dishes were ordered by my dining partners. Parihuela is a coastal seafood soup from Peru (as listed on the menu), and the bowl arrived brimming with sea creatures crawling out of the sea, I mean soup. A taste of the broth indicated the use of a good dosage of garlic, some tomato sauce and white wine for some slight fruitiness, and a good seafood stock for some body. I did not get to taste the pieces of crab, mussels, clams, squid and scallops that looked very fresh and quite large in size. But the orderer left nothing behind, an indication with his level of satisfaction with this bowlful, which he expressed later; the side of perfectly cooked white rice provided the starch to make this dish a meal. The other companion’s order was Trucha Frita al Ajo. A whole boneless trout was lightly floured and pan-fried, partnered with some of that well-cooked rice, fried batons of yucca, and the ubiquitous onion salad. The fish was still moist and tasted fresh with some good proper seasoning that made each bite delightful – a light slathering of butter and some toasted garlic chips added some more flavor and texture to the soft sweet flesh. The side of fried yucca was “meh” according to the diner, but what more can you do with fried root starch.

Aji de Gallina is a renown Peruvian dish that I had seen on menus, and I decided to order it this time. Pieces of stripped chicken (dark meat, my preference), arrived coated by a yellowish sauce. According to the menu description, the chicken has been cooked in a concoction of milk, yellow aji (mild Peruvian pepper), and spices to produce this rather thick stew. The first forkful reminded me of some good Chicken Pot Pie filling, and I kept going back to it for its savoriness and sense of comfort-food that the rich stew spoke to my tongue. Yes, it is a simple dish with uncomplicated flavors, but I could imagine this as a go-to dish when one is under the weather or longing for some TLC. The single olive (sigh, but so tasty), boiled egg, boiled potato, and rice made up the rest of the meal to round off the experience. An order on another day was Pollo a la Brasa, or Rotisserie Chicken. The first mouthful pointed towards a moist and smoky chicken, albeit a bit oversalted for my taste. After getting past the skin, the seasoning was adequate for the meat. The side of black beans was very appetizing, with their not-so-overly softness (obviously freshly made), their slight oregano scent, and a level of smokiness from liquid smoke since I didn’t taste any meat flavor in the bowl. Interestingly, beans do not automatically come with rice here; hence, I had to get some from the seafood soup diner.

Usually not one for sweets after a meal, I knew I had to try a couple of interesting sounding desserts. The first was Picarones. Basically, they are doughnuts made from sweet potato and pumpkin flours, served with a caramel-like honey. The beautiful dish arrived with this thin and light fried rings that were slightly crispy on the outside but spongy inside. There was a faint sweet overtone in the dough that reminded of its nature, tasting different from the usual bland wheat flour version. But what took these bites to the “I’m addicted” level was the Chancaca honey that exuded its molasses character along with some bitter orange-like notes which competed for my gastronomic attention as well as the fried bites. Another order was Lucuma ice cream that was recommended by my waitress and is known as the most popular dessert in house. The carotene-orange scoops arrived in a beautiful cup along with an alfajor, a caramel-filled flaky cookie sandwich. The first mouthful was revealing: there was a level of creaminess, a moderate vanilla-note, and a texture that pointed towards that exotic subtropical Andean fruit. The mouth feel of these scoops was slightly akin to smooth sweet potato that was an indication of the fruit’s exotic presence in this frozen custard, along with a faint maple syrup-like flavor. This unique cold bite got my tongue’s attention, even in the midst of late fall, and I was done with the whole bowl before I knew it.

La Limeña offers some truly wonderful authentic dishes from the motherland. Yes, I was not very impressed with the Empanada and a bit underwhelmed by the beef hearts, but I warmed up to the rest of the menu quickly. The Ceviche was as good as it gets, the seafood soup brimmed with incredibly fresh shellfish and crab in a well-made soup, the fried trout was moist and complemented by the fried garlic chips, the charcoal-cooked chicken was smoky and savory even with its slight heavy-handed saltiness, and the Aji de Gallina spoke of Peruvian comfort food. But, it was the desserts that impressed me the most with the Picarones moistened by that incredibly tongue-haunting honey, as well as the subtly exotic Lucuma ice-cream that kept me digging into the bowl. No wonder this place is full all the time with families, couples, and many ex-pats who seem to savor a piece of their nostalgia from this establishment. The ending complementary of Alfajor was the sweet gesture to seal this gastronomic experience for anyone, reviewer or not.

JDS Shanghai Famous Food

Food, Restaurants

Early in the year, I visited an eatery serving typical mainland Chinese food which I enjoyed due to its authenticity and its gastronomic revelation (read blog). But more importantly, I managed to savor a culinary import that has become a delight for foodies for me – Xiao Long Bao or Soup Dumpling. So, when I got wind that another establishment had opened up serving this steamed bundles, I knew I had to go off my usual trek into the hinterland, at least for me, to have a bite of their offerings. JDS Shanghai Famous Food is located in Gaithersburg, MD, an area not quite known for exotic cuisine, compared to the closer suburbs like Rockville where the aforementioned restaurant is located. But due to the expansion of the suburbs and burgeoning immigrant communities, places like this have popped up to cater to the needs of such segments of population. Thus, I walked into JDS Shanghai (its full name is way too long and quite presumptuous) with a longtime friend living in that area for dinner recently.

The space is rather modern with clean lines and lots of space between booths and tables. Perusing the menu was a bit daunting since there were many dish categories with a number of offerings in each. But we came here for mainly one item – Xiao Long Bao. The menu lists three kinds of stuffing: Pork, Shrimp and Pork, and the latter mix with Okra added to it – we chose the second type. The bamboo basket arrived with 8 dumplings exuding their steamy heat when the lid was removed. Just like the other place mentioned above, the dumplings looked perfectly round with delicate pleats as their crown. We waited a few minutes while I took a couple of photos and let them cool down a bit. One bite into them revealed their true nature. The outer wrapping was a fairly light and spongy skin that was not too thick or starchy, strong enough to hold in the soup and the meat/crab filling (some broke easily when we waited until the end to finish them). The soup produced from the melted gelatin was just the right amount for the diner to taste without overwhelming the experience. What I liked most about this version is the seafood sweetness from the crab that was subtle yet present in the whole mix, with a hint of ginger to mask any extraneous seafood flavors, this being a common Chinese pairing. The young ginger and black vinegar sauce is a must-have seasoning with these dumplings, providing the root bite and an acidic foil to these rich mouth-sticking bundles. However, when tasting the vinegar by itself, it exuded a tannin note that was borderline metallic and a bit of a letdown; obviously, the vinegar was lacking in quality. But with such tasty and well-made dumplings, I was satisfied with this order, and I will definitely have to try the version with okra in the filling.

To balance off the meaty delights, we went to the ocean, not literally, but in the menu – Salt Pepper Shrimp. A long plate arrived with pieces of large shrimp neatly stacked together with a heaping of accouterments. One bite into the seafood brought a smile to my mouth. The shrimp had a light coating of rice flour batter, and it was crispy from a good high-heat frying, yet brittle enough to be consumed whole with shell intact with the flesh still quite moist and non-rubbery. The seasoning was just right with the salt although I couldn’t detect much in the pepper department. The toppings added more flavor with the softened onion and garlic, as well as the sweet red and vegetal green peppers. The sprinkling of fried vermicelli noodles added more crunch to each bite which I was thoroughly enjoying. This was a winning combination with very fresh seafood (and large pieces) cooked perfectly with the right seasoning, and the portion was generous to boot.

For the final dish, we ordered Shanghai Style Pan Fried Noodles. Again, the portion was rather large and it was the first dish to arrive from the kitchen after only a short wait – hmmm. One mouthful of the dish left me a bit nonplussed. The seasoning was quite lacking not just in the salt content but also in the wok flavor, an indication that this dish was hastily cooked or the wok was not hot enough. The bits of Napa cabbage, shrimp, and beef were adequate but rather bland. We managed to avoid abandoning this dish with a help of some soy sauce (strangely, none at the table) and chili oil, as well as the al dente udon-like thick noodles that provided some good body and firm bite to each forkful. Interestingly, my check came with this dish listed as Pan Fried Udon, which is not listed on the menu.

Although this visit cannot be representative of this new Chinese eatery due to the few dishes that I ordered on a single trip, I must say that this place peaked my interest, as well as the crowd of Chinese customers who arrived near the end of the meal that drove the din level close to stratosphere. Never mind the misstep with the Fried Noodles. What I came here for is the Soup Dumpling that I thoroughly enjoyed with the right combination of wrapping skin thinness and the ginger-spiked crab/pork mixture. Yes, I will probably throw in the order of Salt Pepper Shrimp that won me over on this trip with the wonderful crispy shells protecting the sweet fresh flesh, topped by the textural and tasty toppings (4 t’s in a row – wow!). So, when I am in the mood for Xiao Long Bao and not wanting to deal with the long lines and packed space in the other place in Rockville, I will be heading here to Gaithersburg instead.

Mazagan

Food, Restaurants

One evening after dinner with my usual Friday group in a Japanese restaurant in Arlington, VA, we noticed that a shop space a few doors down had been renovated into a new eating establishment, a conversion from its nondescript former life. A quick peek through its storefront indicated that it was now a Moroccan eatery to which we exclaimed that we were going to make it a point to pay it visit. With the daunting thought that a number of places serving this North African cuisine had closed their shutters in the latest economic downspiral, we were eager to discover what this newbie had to offer. So, over the last weekend, my groupies and I sauntered through its doors. . . . . Walking in Mazagan, one notices the space with its open concept with the dining area in the front, a bar to the left, a hookah lounge to the back and an open kitchen across from the smoking den. We took our seats around a round table with one half protected by a curvy banquette, lowly lit by some Moroccan-inspired modern lamps – every decor detail had a nod to North Africa without being stuck in the traditional. For our appetizers, I chose to go the traditional route to ascertain how the kitchen handles the staples. The first was a trio of cold vegetable dips listed as Taste of Morocco. Chakchouka consists of wood-grilled green peppers and tomatoes mixed with olive oil, hand ground cumin and paprika, exuding its slightly bitter green pepper vegetal notes, some grill smokiness, and tomato sweetness. Bakoula is listed as sautéed spinach with olives, preserved lemons, garlic, cumin, paprika and olive oil. The spinach was fresh-tasting studded with a whole clove of caramelized garlic, but missing the listed spice flavors which would have added another note of interest; the slices of preserved lemons stood out as not wanting to join the spinach’s company, thus seemed out-of-place. Zaâlouk is made of wood-grilled eggplant and tomatoes with olive oil, hand ground cumin and paprika, which I quite enjoyed the smoky vegetable marrying with the spices and slightly sweet tomato, this combination reminding me of Italian Caponata. Overall, this trio was well-executed and a wonderful way to open up the meal, albeit a bit pricey for the small amounts. The complementary spiced green olives, grassy olive oil, and Moroccan bread were of excellent quality which we couldn’t stop munching on. A couple of dining companions decided to open their meal with the classic Moroccan soup – Harira. The menu list it as made with tomato, lentil, lamb cubes and chickpea. The bowl arrived steaming with a fairly thick soup in it. After allowing the orderers a few spoonfuls, I was curious to trying a few sips from it. What I could taste from the soup was the gestalt of an alchemy of cooking all the different ingredients producing something that was delicate without any of the ingredients exerting their unique personality. This was a very tasty sip that was beckoning me to continue tasting it either to figure out the subtle spice use in it or merely to savor this warming and soulful bowlful. The use of grain was sufficient to give it body without it becoming porridge like. A faint lemon juice note in the background further added interest and a balance to this slightly starchy soup. This is an example of what good soup is, a final product that is savory and a transformation as the result of the chemistry of cooking the right ingredients. Another standard fare from this cuisine is Bastilla. The menu lists two types, chicken and seafood, the latter being a novelty for this diner. However, I chose to go with the traditional version made with chicken, or pigeon in that North African country. The “cake” arrived dressed with a fairly light sprinkling of powdered sugar punctuated by lines of cinnamon powder. One cut into it revealed its true nature. The phyllo dough was fully cooked but still a bit supple, an indication that it was not baked too long. But it was the stuffing that was the appealing star with its moist finely shredded (very) chicken meat, a light sprinkling of fine bits of almond, and a hint of nutmeg permeating through the mixture. What I appreciated about this sweet/savory mixture is that its savoriness was never detracted by the powdered sugar or the nuts, which has occurred in other versions that I have tasted with the heavy amounts of the sweet and equal amount of nuts. Here, we have an exotic cake reminding you that it’s a savory appetizer with hints of sweet and spice. The seafood version will indeed be on my order during my next visit in order to quell my curiosity of this untried stuffing. For the main courses, everyone decided to go with the true-and-tested traditional dishes from this North African cuisine. A couple of my dining mates went for the Chicken Tagine. The dish arrived in the traditional earthenware, and its top was removed once placed on the table, letting steam escape after sitting on the charcoal grill visible from the dining room. What was revealed was a bit of a surprise – bits of slow cooked chicken were topped with a sprinkling of french fries, which raised our curiosity since we were not used to it being served in this fashion. A quick query to our waiter enlightened us that it was common for tagines to be served this way even though we were used to seeing potato and carrots as the dish’s usual partners. A taste of my companion’s dish pointed towards fork-tender moist chicken cooked with preserved lemon and green olives, made yellow by cumin and slightly fragrant by a light use of spices. Despite the other flavor elements, I found the dish slightly under-salted, but better less than more. A slight resin-like after-note in the sauce was intriguing, and after biting into some preserved lemon, I realized that that flavor came from the citrus itself – that must be some super lemons with such a strong flavor in the rind. However, I felt the spicing could have been a bit stronger to pull all the elements together and to keep my interest a bit longer. Nevertheless, my friends truly enjoyed their dishes, notwithstanding the fries that soaked up all the flavors. Another diner’s entrée was Lamb Couscous. A wonderful oval bowl arrived with a large mound of the pasta grain, with large chunks of lamb shank and large pieces of carrots, zucchini, pumpkin, and onion wedges sitting on top. The chunks of lamb shank were moist and fork-tender that exuded a fresh taste with an interesting note akin to fresh leather, and by this, I mean it in a good way, reminding me of my youth when my father would order a whole kid lamb that was grilled in the yard for the annual office dinners that exuded similar qualities and flavor. I just couldn’t get enough of this flavor along with the lamb’s tenderness. The bed of couscous underneath was very decent, being fully cooked and moistened with the stock enriched by the meats and vegetables. The pieces of vegetable appeared fully cooked since I did not have a chance to dig my fork into them. My dining companion seemed very content with his order and he was making quite a dent on it.

After our savory courses, we inquired about the sweet offerings. Everything on the menu was French-inspired desserts with the exception of the ubiquitous Baklava and Orange with Cinnamon, both of which I was very familiar with. Despite not having a sweet ending, we were quite pleased with the cooking from this new kitchen, starting with the trio of cold vegetable dishes, the enticing Harira soup, the fairly well executed Chicken Tagine, and the as-good-as-it-gets Lamb Couscous. With cooking this impressive a midst the swanky decor of this new space, I see my dining group and I coming back for more of their offerings.